Engine Cuts out On Track
#1
Engine Cuts out On Track
Put my car on track first time yesterday. Have had car for 1 year. Did mostly suspension and chassis work. Cleaned and sealed motor - timing belt/water pump etc, otherwise no work by me on motor.
Here's some info.
94R package car - 100k motor - never opened.
Have a Turbo from a 300Z factory turbo set up.
Manual boost control running about 10psi.
Intercooler.
MiataLink piggyback (at least I think that's what it's called) with a "tethered" hand programming unit attached to my ECU behind passenger seat.
I've never touched any of the engine management stuff except for the manual boost adjuster.
Wrapped exhaust manifold and down pipe but not the turbo itself.
On track yesterday at 90 degree+ ambient temperature (TGPR in Alabama).
Car ran great for 3 - 4 laps - pulled strong up to about 6000 where I was shifting. Then it would just shut off for 1/2 second or maybe 1 full second. Then come back on for 2 seconds to 4 seconds.
Tried a new fuel filter as most simple fix - but of course no help.
Ran with hood off the car for a session to mitigate underhood heat, but same result.
Anybody have a similar experience?
I don't have much experience with turbo motors or aftermarket engine management, so I'm looking for any suggestions anybody may have. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here's some info.
94R package car - 100k motor - never opened.
Have a Turbo from a 300Z factory turbo set up.
Manual boost control running about 10psi.
Intercooler.
MiataLink piggyback (at least I think that's what it's called) with a "tethered" hand programming unit attached to my ECU behind passenger seat.
I've never touched any of the engine management stuff except for the manual boost adjuster.
Wrapped exhaust manifold and down pipe but not the turbo itself.
On track yesterday at 90 degree+ ambient temperature (TGPR in Alabama).
Car ran great for 3 - 4 laps - pulled strong up to about 6000 where I was shifting. Then it would just shut off for 1/2 second or maybe 1 full second. Then come back on for 2 seconds to 4 seconds.
Tried a new fuel filter as most simple fix - but of course no help.
Ran with hood off the car for a session to mitigate underhood heat, but same result.
Anybody have a similar experience?
I don't have much experience with turbo motors or aftermarket engine management, so I'm looking for any suggestions anybody may have. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#5
How would I confirm a Cam Sensor problem?
The link is to a YouTube video showing the misfire right at the end of the video. You can see my helmet jerking forward as the car loses power for about 1 second at a time. Tach does not drop during these losses of power. Is this similar to the Cam Sensor problem you encountered?
The link is to a YouTube video showing the misfire right at the end of the video. You can see my helmet jerking forward as the car loses power for about 1 second at a time. Tach does not drop during these losses of power. Is this similar to the Cam Sensor problem you encountered?
#6
It's unlikely the Link piggy is causing the cutting out because it just doesn't have that much control. Does it happen repeatedly? Always at 6K? Does it happen over bumps?
--Ian
#9
Thanks for comments on Link Codrus - will need to learn more about it. Problem is not sensitive to bumps. Recently went through all grounds I could find, including the one near firewall in front of driver with several grounds on common screw - cleaned that and scraped and cleaned and then refastened. Not RPM sensitive - once it happens it will happen at any RPM until it "rests" for a while. When the problem is happening it is throttle sensitive. I can put very light throttle (<25%) in and it runs - then as I squeeze more throttle it cuts out. It will do that till I allow it to cool down - or drive it slowly for a while. Also happened once when I was running steady on highway in 95 degree weather at close to 90mph. I needed to pull over and let it rest for 5 minutes then drive 75 mph no problem. On track it pulls fine up to 6k - 7k rpm for about 5 minutes, then starts doing its missing thing.
#11
Senior Member
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Location: Lambertville, NJ
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CAM Sensor:
Sorry- it was actually the Crank Angle Sensor. And diagnosis was wriggling hard on the cables with the engine running makes the engine stop.
About the link: Funny enough I had the CAS problem when I was also running the link piggyback. And the Link intercepts the ignition signal and modifies it. So any problem with the link or the wiring to it WOULD cause your engine to stall. In order to troubleshoot that I would remove the Link from the ignition circuit and drive the car. Of course now you don't have the timing retard from the link under boost, so I would DEFINITELY wire the WG open too.
Sorry- it was actually the Crank Angle Sensor. And diagnosis was wriggling hard on the cables with the engine running makes the engine stop.
About the link: Funny enough I had the CAS problem when I was also running the link piggyback. And the Link intercepts the ignition signal and modifies it. So any problem with the link or the wiring to it WOULD cause your engine to stall. In order to troubleshoot that I would remove the Link from the ignition circuit and drive the car. Of course now you don't have the timing retard from the link under boost, so I would DEFINITELY wire the WG open too.
#12
Temps?
I can put very light throttle (<25%) in and it runs - then as I squeeze more throttle it cuts out. It will do that till I allow it to cool down - or drive it slowly for a while.
#13
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Lambertville, NJ
Posts: 1,215
Total Cats: 74
What are your engine temps looking like during this? The Link has a built in temp protection and if you try to get into boost while your engine is running hot it will cut out on you. You should also be able to pull up your coolant temp on the link to see if it is receiving the correct signal from your coolant sensor.
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