MongER

yes, its an odd setup.. the fuel pressure regulator is actually located center of the fuel rail, on the bottom end. You cant see it. Its hidden under the rail. My friend told me that the two side lines are the feeds and the center one was the return. Ofcourse, he could be wrong.

E-NA6CE

iTrader: (2)

So, your timing is 100% correct (?), your engine is running rich as **** and you can't release the clutch without it dying...

E-NA6CE

iTrader: (2)

No, he's right. The dual-feed rails are designed that way so each injector gets the same amount of fuel.

MongER

yes.. i dont know about 100 percent.. prolly near 80%.. but the point is, yes, engine is running rich as **** and you can't release the clutch without it dying.

E-NA6CE

iTrader: (2)

My only thought as of now is the clutch switch. Do you have an over-ride plate installed?

MongER

that im not sure. I bought a clutch and lightweight fly wheel and had a mechanic install it a year back. I never got the chance to rip open the the tranny.

there are two wire hanging from the bottom of the tranny.. i have no idea where they run. Could they have something to do with it?

I remember the stock engine had two wires coming out of the tranny for (from what i was told), the reverse lights? <-noob swapper

I connected those wires in. From the same bundle of wires was this other pair of wire. black (chuckle) and i left them hanging.. having no idea where they ran to.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...a4df66f3f4.jpg

E-NA6CE

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I ripped those off of mine, ha ha. No clue. I had a plastic connector on one of them. Meh.

I'm still trying to figure out whether it's a mechanical or an electrical issue. How much throttle can you give it before it dies, and does it backfire or pop at all when you give it gas? How soon did this start happening? I notice you do not have a MAFS (they suck anyway). Is your AIT sensor working properly/hooked up?

MongER

The engine runs rich on idle according to the fuel ratio meter. As soon as i push any sort of fuel in.. it dies.

if i let go of the clutch.. it dies

i just swapped the engine and started it yesterday

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

stuck in reverse? try to put the car in another gear or elevate the rear end to see if it is spinning the tires. Obviusly if you have the stuck in reverse problem and your ebrake, is on and the tires are on the ground it will kill the motor.

E-NA6CE

iTrader: (2)

True, but it doesn't say much for the stalling issue when he gives it throttle. I'm thinking a sensor is left unattended.

Did you double, triple and quadruple check your connections (specifically vacuum lines and any sensors involving intake and exhaust)? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? What PSI is it at when idling and does it increase/decrease when you manipulate the throttle?

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

make sure all the electronics are connected, to include ecu coolant temp sender (there are 2 temp senders) and the afm/maf. Can you start the car without pushing in the clutch? There are 2 sensors in the tranny. Your reverse sensor tells your reverse lights to come on when the car is in reverse. You also have a neutral sensor. How much vaccum you have at idle? What happens to the vaccum if you hit the accelerator?

Magna - good call on stuck in reverse possibility. Monger, if your car is stuck in reverse, the reverse lights (assuming the sensor is connected) will be on while the car is in neutral. The car will also not move forward. It will move reverse if the shifter is in the neutral position, and it will stall out if the shifter is in any other position. "Stuck in reverse" is an easy fix (5 minutes), fortunately

BoostedAP1

Let me chime in here. Car is not stuck in reverse, because we pushed it out from the garage in neutral without pushing in the clutch. Another thing, AFC guage only works when you are WOT so you can't read off of that as running rich Monger. Lawn mower sounding issue was due to down pipe not being bolted on(engine ran ok). Down to the nitty griddy, car needs a dyno tune, timing checked & work to be looked over for any loose wires vaccum hoses.

The main issue is the clutch, while pushed in the car remains on but when released it dies. Its not sruck in reverse or any gears. It does have an after market alarm which is disarmed before starting of course but not sure is thats malfunctioning or has a sensor to the clutch. The tranny should NOT neede to be torn apart due to the fact that it was working just fine before it was pulled. Motor & tranny was pulled as a whole & installed as a whole. Would the driveshaft affect the issue? It had to be modified to fit. Thanks in advance.

MongER

okok, i think i found the problem. This hose thingamabob is supposed to be connected to the link engine management inside the hood. looks like it may have came lose. It now stays on in neutral with the petal released. The car can go into gear and move. Sounds beautiful too now. Here is a picture of the hose.

I went over all my sensors and found it.

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...c186be85c2.jpg

Thanks so much you guys. You guys rock! miataturbo.net rocks on!.. XD

E-NA6CE

iTrader: (2)

Nice, good find. Well I'm glad you found your problem.. and also that it cost nothing to fix. Rock on for electrical problems, ha ha.

BoostedAP1

Woop woop

RotorNutFD3S

iTrader: (33)

Congrats on the fix. However, I'm curious, why was the driveshaft modified?

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

LOL at finding the absolute most important connection of the entire engine management system was disconnected, and then calling it a 'hose thingamabob'.

Glad you got it sorted!

BoostedAP1

I believe the previous owner said it had a newer rear end from the newer miatas.