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Old 04-20-2011, 04:40 PM   #21
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Ultra Grey is the shiznit.
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:29 AM   #22
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I tried popping in the new freeze plug and ended up finding the previous one that popped out. I couldn't tap the new plug in because there isn't enough swinging room for the hammer with the radiator/fans there; tried using a swivel socket to resolve that and still no go. The old plug taps in fine but one edge is always further in than the other sides. I don't have confidence that one would stay in again even with the hard-setting sealant.
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:44 AM   #23
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Mine wouldn't go in what so ever until I used a 5lb sledge hammer and removed the radiator. Your coolants already drained anyways. Sounds like I'll be putting a strip of metal over it though for extra protection.
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:21 PM   #24
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Curly,you used a 5lb sledge to remove the rad or removed and then hammered? Sometimes when I'm working on parts that just don't seem to install like they're sposed to I find that a hammer always seems to be the appropriate tool... till I cool down and realize I made more work for myself. Anyway when yall are talking about putting a plate on the hole do you mean in addition to the plug or just a plate with sealant?
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:58 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Curly,you used a 5lb sledge to remove the rad or removed and then hammered? Sometimes when I'm working on parts that just don't seem to install like they're sposed to I find that a hammer always seems to be the appropriate tool... till I cool down and realize I made more work for myself. Anyway when yall are talking about putting a plate on the hole do you mean in addition to the plug or just a plate with sealant?
Some have said they have used both. I was planning on keeping the old plug in there with sealant and then adding a plate on top of that also with sealant.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:12 PM   #26
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What are peoples thoughts/experiences on the rubber expansion plugs? When I got the first one the guy at the auto shop showed me the ones with a rubber seal but I got the steel one instead. Has anyone used these?

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Old 04-21-2011, 01:34 PM   #27
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Those have worked for me in the past and hold up for a long time. I would be worried about the rubber deteriorating but it would take years.

I was told to clean the freeze plug bores with brake cleaner and use Permatex No. 1 or locktite on them. Unfortunately for me this was after I already installed all of them using Ultra Copper. I hope they stay in...
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:36 PM   #28
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Rubber ones are only temporary. They'll degrade, and you'll have to replace them.

+1 on the Indian Head laquer sealant. It's what my dad used, and one bottle will last just about forever. I used his 30+ year old bottle last time I did a water pump, and no leaks.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:41 PM   #29
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Also, brass freeze plugs are superior to steel. They will not corrode. RockAuto has them for $12 a set or something like that.
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:08 AM   #30
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I got some aluminum stock yesterday. 1/8" thick, 2" wide and 3 ft long. I'm wondering if that would be thick enough to use as a plate over the freeze plug. BEGi uses 3/16" thick aluminum on their water neck cap-off. Should I go to 1/4" or should I stack two 1/8" plates together?
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:17 AM   #31
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you want aluminum that is thick enough not to flex/bend with you tighten it down.

since it's an odd shaped oval with a bolt hole on either end, it's possible that it wont seal if too thin of stock is used.

I chose to use Utlra Grey as a gasket for my plate as well. Pretty sure I used 1/4".

I traced the water neck outlet for my template.
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:32 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
you want aluminum that is thick enough not to flex/bend with you tighten it down.

since it's an odd shaped oval with a bolt hole on either end, it's possible that it wont seal if too thin of stock is used.

I chose to use Utlra Grey as a gasket for my plate as well. Pretty sure I used 1/4".

I traced the water neck outlet for my template.
Where'd you find the 1/4" stock? My local hardware stores only have up to 1/8" stock. :( I was planning on tracking out the water neck and cutting that.
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:35 AM   #33
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I honestly cant remember what I used.

It's possible I cut up some random ECU case I had laying around. I'll go out at lunch and look/picture.
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:44 AM   #34
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5lb sledge was used for the freeze plug once the radiator was removed. Anything else just bounced off.

If you already have a freeze plug in, I don't think you need a 1/4" plate, just a strip of ~1/8" to keep it from backing out.
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Old 04-22-2011, 12:30 PM   #35
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One thing to remember would be cleaning all of the crud in the plug bore.
That stuff gets crusty sometimes.
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Old 04-22-2011, 12:51 PM   #36
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looks like i used 1/8"

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Old 04-22-2011, 04:16 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godless Commie View Post
One thing to remember would be cleaning all of the crud in the plug bore.
That stuff gets crusty sometimes.
Yep yep, carb cleaner worked great in that regard.

Quote:
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Cool, thanks Braineack for the photo.
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:39 AM   #38
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I reused an oil freeze plug off a old escort motor.... put RTV around it and shoved it in.

I saw it backing out a little and made a plate... Its about the easiest plate to make in the world... you need a drill bit and a grinder and a thin piece of steel.
....All hacked up my backplate so I can remove it when i don't need to check timing.
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:51 PM   #39
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Weird, I thought my post went through but I guess not...

I put the old plug back in but with Permatex hard-setting sealant. I then fabricated two 1/8" plates and affixed them with sealant to the head and then bolted them in. I haven't driven her yet due to other events this weekend but I had to dremel out part of the timing plate so I could bolt in the aluminum plates.

Photos: http://s389.photobucket.com/albums/o...nderKnife/d13/
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