mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

Ultra Grey is the shiznit.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

I tried popping in the new freeze plug and ended up finding the previous one that popped out. I couldn't tap the new plug in because there isn't enough swinging room for the hammer with the radiator/fans there; tried using a swivel socket to resolve that and still no go. The old plug taps in fine but one edge is always further in than the other sides. I don't have confidence that one would stay in again even with the hard-setting sealant.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Mine wouldn't go in what so ever until I used a 5lb sledge hammer and removed the radiator. Your coolants already drained anyways. Sounds like I'll be putting a strip of metal over it though for extra protection.

mx5autoxer

iTrader: (1)

Curly,you used a 5lb sledge to remove the rad or removed and then hammered? Sometimes when I'm working on parts that just don't seem to install like they're sposed to I find that a hammer always seems to be the appropriate tool... till I cool down and realize I made more work for myself. Anyway when yall are talking about putting a plate on the hole do you mean in addition to the plug or just a plate with sealant?

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

Some have said they have used both. I was planning on keeping the old plug in there with sealant and then adding a plate on top of that also with sealant.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

What are peoples thoughts/experiences on the rubber expansion plugs? When I got the first one the guy at the auto shop showed me the ones with a rubber seal but I got the steel one instead. Has anyone used these?

RyanLewo

iTrader: (1)

Those have worked for me in the past and hold up for a long time. I would be worried about the rubber deteriorating but it would take years.

I was told to clean the freeze plug bores with brake cleaner and use Permatex No. 1 or locktite on them. Unfortunately for me this was after I already installed all of them using Ultra Copper. I hope they stay in...

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Rubber ones are only temporary. They'll degrade, and you'll have to replace them.

+1 on the Indian Head laquer sealant. It's what my dad used, and one bottle will last just about forever. I used his 30+ year old bottle last time I did a water pump, and no leaks.

RyanLewo

iTrader: (1)

Also, brass freeze plugs are superior to steel. They will not corrode. RockAuto has them for $12 a set or something like that.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

I got some aluminum stock yesterday. 1/8" thick, 2" wide and 3 ft long. I'm wondering if that would be thick enough to use as a plate over the freeze plug. BEGi uses 3/16" thick aluminum on their water neck cap-off. Should I go to 1/4" or should I stack two 1/8" plates together?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you want aluminum that is thick enough not to flex/bend with you tighten it down.

since it's an odd shaped oval with a bolt hole on either end, it's possible that it wont seal if too thin of stock is used.

I chose to use Utlra Grey as a gasket for my plate as well. Pretty sure I used 1/4".

I traced the water neck outlet for my template.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

Where'd you find the 1/4" stock? My local hardware stores only have up to 1/8" stock. :( I was planning on tracking out the water neck and cutting that.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I honestly cant remember what I used.

It's possible I cut up some random ECU case I had laying around. I'll go out at lunch and look/picture.

curly

iTrader: (25)

5lb sledge was used for the freeze plug once the radiator was removed. Anything else just bounced off.

If you already have a freeze plug in, I don't think you need a 1/4" plate, just a strip of ~1/8" to keep it from backing out.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

One thing to remember would be cleaning all of the crud in the plug bore.
That stuff gets crusty sometimes.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

looks like i used 1/8"

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

Yep yep, carb cleaner worked great in that regard.

Cool, thanks Braineack for the photo.

Preluding

iTrader: (10)

I reused an oil freeze plug off a old escort motor.... put RTV around it and shoved it in.

I saw it backing out a little and made a plate... Its about the easiest plate to make in the world... you need a drill bit and a grinder and a thin piece of steel.
....All hacked up my backplate so I can remove it when i don't need to check timing.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

Weird, I thought my post went through but I guess not...

I put the old plug back in but with Permatex hard-setting sealant. I then fabricated two 1/8" plates and affixed them with sealant to the head and then bolted them in. I haven't driven her yet due to other events this weekend but I had to dremel out part of the timing plate so I could bolt in the aluminum plates.

Photos: http://s389.photobucket.com/albums/o...nderKnife/d13/