When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I may be wrong but it looks way too tight from the picture. Should be opened up and light rather than tight and dense. We're just wanting to have oil droplets make contact with the media as the vapors change directions multiple times while wandering through it. We don't want to create a restriction.
I may be wrong but it looks way too tight from the picture. Should be opened up and light rather than tight and dense. We're just wanting to have oil droplets make contact with the media as the vapors change directions multiple times while wandering through it. We don't want to create a restriction.
It may just be the way it photographed.
No, you are right. It is packed pretty tight...
Lemme get on that.
For those that don’t read the full threads on VC mods, it should be pointed out that there are compelling reasons to use real copper scrubber pads rather the copper coated or stainless. Yes, stainless steel does rust and copper coating coming off and apart inside an expensive engine probably isn’t a good idea. I’m not picking a fight with anyone but do strongly suggest that each person do their homework. This was the only one I could find in the US that is copper - Amazon or eBay.
For those that don’t read the full threads on VC mods, it should be pointed out that there are compelling reasons to use real copper scrubber pads rather the copper coated or stainless. Yes, stainless steel does rust and copper coating coming off and apart inside an expensive engine probably isn’t a good idea. I’m not picking a fight with anyone but do strongly suggest that each person do their homework. This was the only one I could find in the US that is copper - Amazon or eBay.
I do understand you and your concerns about stainless scrubbers.
However, I have been using stainless in my VC since 2012, and I have never seen rust on them.
Maybe this is because my car is a DD, I don't know.
Stainless steel doesn't usually rust when coated in oil. Cast iron doesn't either. I'm using steel wool which isn't rusting, but I wouldn't recommend it for anyone else.
Seems to work fine as is, but if you were making your own you'd be better to use a wider surface area, and have more than the 3 layers to trap more stuff on the way to the exit vent.
And yeah, being alu and plate, no worry about rust ever.
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Originally Posted by Turbomack
For those that don’t read the full threads on VC mods, it should be pointed out that there are compelling reasons to use real copper scrubber pads rather the copper coated or stainless. Yes, stainless steel does rust and copper coating coming off and apart inside an expensive engine probably isn’t a good idea. I’m not picking a fight with anyone but do strongly suggest that each person do their homework. This was the only one I could find in the US that is copper - Amazon or eBay.
How many parts in your engine are made of steel or any other ferrous metals?
I would totally take my chances with this ss material.
I came up with the vacuum idea because there is no room under or below the breather tank for a petcock or for holding a cup under the drain.
Hence the approach to empty it from the top, using readily available engine vacuum.
Bit late I know, but ...
I have a similar packaging problem, I put a drain hose into the wheel well, just need to turn the wheel to full lock, or remove, to access.
Instead of vacuum from the engine, why not use one of those syringe devices used for filling/draining gearboxes and diffs, master cylinders, etc?
How many parts in your engine are made of steel or any other ferrous metals?
I would totally take my chances with this ss material.
I thought this could turn contentious ...”can’t rust if it is coated in oil”, “been doing it that way since 1742 and never blown a motor”, etc. On one of my 1000-post reading sessions last year I came across some compelling arguments against the coated ones and the SS ones. Wish I could easily find those posts. Steam and moisture causing it to rust and flaking of the copper coating were a couple of things I remember and they weren’t challenged very well or I could have saved a lot of hassle for myself switching it out and waiting on the real copper ones to get delivered. That’s what gets confusing about all the threads...20 will say it’s the best thing since toilet paper, 20 will say it’s really dirty TP. Advanced engineering degrees drive me to understand the science behind questionable comments but the million miles of real experience in MT is invaluable and means a lot.
if you are running a VTA (vent to atmosphere), PCV delete, it makes no sense to put anything in chamber C because there would never be a vacuum to pull any caught oil back into the head. The negative pressure (i.e. vacuum) will get it’s relief from “A” before it sucks oil out of “C”. “C” is just going to fill up and eventually puke onto the can if/when there is enough pressure to blow it through. However, a small hole or 2 drilled into the chamber cover of “C” would allow any caught oil to flow back into the head. Someone on here had plans to cut the chamber cover in “C” off by 1/4 or 1/3 at least partially for the reasons I state. Don’t think that ever got fully vetted or if it did I never found the results.
I emptied the catch can for the first time today.
About a liter of the chocolate milk stuff.
Had quite bit of a water in it, in fact vast majority was water, because I was stupid enough to power wash the engine before draining it.
Draining it with the compressed air driven vacuum bleeder was a breeze. No mess, super clean.
06-22-2019, 03:28 PM
0
