Break-in oil
#1
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Break-in oil
Anybody recommend using this, or the additive for first startup? I was just going to go with some dino oil but one of my buddies suggested this stuff instead. Input?
Like this: http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html
Or this: http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=9&loc=show
Like this: http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html
Or this: http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=9&loc=show
#3
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I ran O'Reilly junk for ~15 minutes, drained, then filled with Rotella dino oil for 1000 miles and been on Rotella Synth ever since.
My builder told me to not worry about "break-in oil" because he used assembly lube, lol.
My builder told me to not worry about "break-in oil" because he used assembly lube, lol.
#4
And if you really want zinc and phosphorous in your oil then use rotella synth 5w40 but its going to take longer to get your HLAs to prime.
#5
My engine builder suggested Joe Gibbs BR (Break-In) oil.
It is about the same cost at Mobil 1 per quart ($7-8).
I learned a few things reading the technical info and "Training Center" at the Joe Gibbs Driven website. Some good info there, best I've seen from any oil manufacturer. Lots of info about oil for racing purposes and their products.
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/index.html
It is about the same cost at Mobil 1 per quart ($7-8).
I learned a few things reading the technical info and "Training Center" at the Joe Gibbs Driven website. Some good info there, best I've seen from any oil manufacturer. Lots of info about oil for racing purposes and their products.
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/index.html
#8
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Ditto. I break in my engines with straight detergent 30wt. Napa brand. I just dont buy the royal purple hype. If you really want to protect your motor on startup, get the oil system primed before you crank it. That will make the biggest difference in longevity I think.
And if you really want zinc and phosphorous in your oil then use rotella synth 5w40 but its going to take longer to get your HLAs to prime.
And if you really want zinc and phosphorous in your oil then use rotella synth 5w40 but its going to take longer to get your HLAs to prime.
Thanks for the input MT!
#10
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I should also note that my builder said he burnishes the cylinder walls after honing them, and I'm not really sure what it means other than my engine is better than all of yours because it's anointed with the tears of the affluent.
#11
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We do break-in on the dyno and use vacuum decel readings to decide when the rings are fully seated, then change the oil, and then tune the car. The first oil change typically happens with ~40 miles on the odometer.
#15
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Dude, if you have "metal shavings" then something is seriously wrong. Break-in is about the grain-structure on the face of each friction surfacel, not grinding down the rings. lol
I should also note that my builder said he burnishes the cylinder walls after honing them, and I'm not really sure what it means other than my engine is better than all of yours because it's anointed with the tears of the affluent.
I should also note that my builder said he burnishes the cylinder walls after honing them, and I'm not really sure what it means other than my engine is better than all of yours because it's anointed with the tears of the affluent.