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Old 08-19-2012, 03:07 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samakhan View Post
My goal is to have it done by next fall.
If this is your first build expect it to take twice as long as you think it will. Also, start buying parts asap.

**edit** And cost twice as much as you think it will.
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:09 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by yank View Post
If this is your first build expect it to take twice as long as you think it will. Also, start buying parts asap.

**edit** And cost twice as much as you think it will.
Interesting theory. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:23 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Samakhan View Post
Interesting theory. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks
Just saying. I thought my build was going to run around 7K but it took over 11.5K to get it running. Not saying that your build will cost this much but there's always something that gets overlooked and there are alot of little things that aren't on the list that all add up quick. aka fittings, fuel lines, wiring fixes, raw materials for heat shields/ brackets/ ducting etc.

As far as time goes, life gets in the way. Im not sure of how much free time you have but dont be disappointed if it takes longer than you expect. I remember reading mightymouses' thread for over a year before i started my build thinking "man this guy is sure taking his time." I initially though i would finish my build in 6 month MAX but I just got on the road this last month... 14 months later. (not touching it during the school semester didn't help. Life.)

Good luck. I'm excited to see what you come up with and i'll help out whatever little way i can.
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:32 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by yank View Post
Just saying. I thought my build was going to run around 7K but it took over 11.5K to get it running. Not saying that your build will cost this much but there's always something that gets overlooked and there are alot of little things that aren't on the list that all add up quick. aka fittings, fuel lines, wiring fixes, raw materials for heat shields/ brackets/ ducting etc.

As far as time goes, life gets in the way. Im not sure of how much free time you have but dont be disappointed if it takes longer than you expect. I remember reading mightymouses' thread for over a year before i started my build thinking "man this guy is sure taking his time." I initially though i would finish my build in 6 month MAX but I just got on the road this last month... 14 months later. (not touching it during the school semester didn't help. Life.)

Good luck. I'm excited to see what you come up with and i'll help out whatever little way i can.
No i completely understand where you are coming from and 100% agree with that. This build doesnt include everything else that i want to do as well (brakes, suspension, wheels/tires, roll cage, hartop, lots of other miscellaneous ****) all together I wont be surprised if I reach the 20k mark. Its been something Ive always wanted to do since i was young to build a complete car from ground up and I think this car is the one to do it with. I work full time and am going to school almost full time for engineering so my time plate is pretty full but whatever free time I have is spent on my miata whether its wrenching or reading up on builds/parts and what not. Its a long term project, but I feel confident in having it up and running by this time next year. I totally appreciate your input though, thank you
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:53 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Samakhan View Post
I work full time and am going to school almost full time for engineering so my time plate is pretty full but whatever free time I have is spent on my miata whether its wrenching or reading up on builds/parts and what not. Its a long term project, but I feel confident in having it up and running by this time next year. I totally appreciate your input though, thank you
Nice! Mechanical from Western Kentucky University here. What school?
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:56 PM   #26
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Nice! Mechanical from Western Kentucky University here. What school?
Nice! finishing up my associates in software at a local tech college (waukesha county tech.) then transferring to MSOE for the bachelors.
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Old 08-19-2012, 04:33 PM   #27
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+1 on doubling the time expected for a build.

Read this: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...content-60308/
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:19 PM   #28
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if you are running e85 exclusively you may want to consider higher compression. 9.5 Or 10 even. 9 at the lowest imo. if it were more available in my area i would be rockin 9.5.

Last edited by krissetsfire; 08-19-2012 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:21 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by viperormiata View Post
+1 on doubling the time expected for a build.

Read this: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...content-60308/
Currently im reading Faelflora's build...VERY interseting stuff lol
Ill check that out next. thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by krissetsfire View Post
if you are running e85 exclusively you may want to consider higher compression. 9.5 Or 10 even. 9 at the lowest imo. if it was more available in my area i would be rockin 9.5.
why do you say that?
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:24 PM   #30
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Post details on your integra and neon. And then i will help you.

Btw do you know how to tune? If not, i dont recommend 300+hp or else u will pay a lot od $$$$ for tunes.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:32 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdgen View Post
To make this kind of power, you need to use a Borg Warner S366 turbo.

Hahahah


Quote:
Originally Posted by Samakhan View Post
Currently im reading Faelflora's build...VERY interseting stuff lol
Come to Daddy.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:49 PM   #32
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I have essentially the setup you outlined and I would pretty much echo what everyone else said.
1. It will take much longer than you think(in my case due to having 2 small children)
2. The Trackspeed long block is an excellent place to start. VVT head will be helpful but might be a bit problematic if you must have 8K redline. Cams from Trackspeed might solve this I don't know.
3. Buy a quality exhaust manifold and downpipe-Absurdflow, ARtech etc. I have absurdflow
4. You might might consider a GTX3071 for a little more headroom if you want to run 400whp comfortably
5. Really no need for a dual feed fuel rail other than they are pretty. A walbro 255 should be enough but consider the Deatschwerks or Aeromotive single pumps for a little more flow
6. For other supporting stuff it would be helpful to know what you are going to use the car for. Track work with extended high rpms? Street with occasional zings to 8K. For track work a better harmonic damper-Supermiata or ATI, Shim under bucket lifters(supertech or Mazdaspeed), inconel exhaust valves, accusump maybe
For more sustained high hp use like track work you also need cooling mods-better radiator-trackspeed unit is the best, oil cooler etc
Will need some EMS
Brakes, suspension will need some work for track work.

My setup is this
Currently Supertech 8.6:1 pistons, forged rods, ACL bearings, ARP head and main studs. mildly ported head with stock cams for now.
Boundary engineering race pump, ATI superdamper
DIY auto individual coils
Hydra 2.7(will probably switch to AEM infinity soon)
Absurdflow manifold and DP with GT3071, 3" exhaust
Modified honda intake manifold and 67mm Blox throttle body
1000cc injectors and FM fuel rail, single walbro 255
Trackspeed radiator, FM oil cooler
Xida Coilovers, v8roadsters control arms, endlinks, sway bars, frame rail braces
Twin plate clutch, OS giken diff
Hardtop, rollbar, door bars, getting a Tillet seat and I am sure I forgot some other stuff. Tires wheels,hubs etc, gauges(my prosports suck)
I am sure this is over 25K lost count long ago
I made 340hp(Mustang dyno) on a mild tune without the race ported head and integral cams which will be installed later.
Time spent-2+ yrs
Time spend driving said build-it would depress me to think about it.
I would say one thing about doing a build like this. Buy the right stuff in stages. Do not cheap out of stuff to get you through till when you can buy the stuff you want. You will waste more time(if you do all the work yourself) or money(if you do not) replacing stuff later.
I would highlight that this type of build is not for DD. Forget it unless you like to walk.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:06 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Post details on your integra and neon. And then i will help you.

Btw do you know how to tune? If not, i dont recommend 300+hp or else u will pay a lot od $$$$ for tunes.
I meant GSX as in DSM, funny you mention integra though because I had a GSR as well with a type r swap, intake and exhaust. **** was slow. I was in with the honda kids till i decided that was gay but details on GSX and on neon ACR SRT-4
1999 eclipse GSX to be exact
pistons
rods
some head work
hks 272s
dsmlink
gt28
3" exhaust open dump
big *** IC
walbro 255/1000cc injectors
daily driven on 26psi making 485awhp
went through 4 transmissions when i decided it was time to move on

2005 Neon ACR srt
mopar stage 3 upgrade with toys
ported head with crane stage 2 cams
AGP fuel kit with with 1000cc injectors
needswings 3" exhaust with cut out. bitch shot flames like no other
23psi e-85 385whp

as for tuning
luckily i have a buddy thats good with that.
hows the auto tune feature on the hydra work?

Quote:
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Hahahah




Come to Daddy.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:13 PM   #34
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pictures would be way more helpful....videos even more so. Nothing more boring than someone describing their previous cars in a post
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:16 PM   #35
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Reason for low compression is to keep det down. if det isn't an issue then why not get the benefits of a high comp motor. talk to sav about it if they are going to build you a motor. If you plan on running pump at all then forget it and go 8.6. There are a few members on here running higher compression on e85 and making awesome power.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:17 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaisersoze View Post
I have essentially the setup you outlined and I would pretty much echo what everyone else said.
1. It will take much longer than you think(in my case due to having 2 small children)
2. The Trackspeed long block is an excellent place to start. VVT head will be helpful but might be a bit problematic if you must have 8K redline. Cams from Trackspeed might solve this I don't know.
3. Buy a quality exhaust manifold and downpipe-Absurdflow, ARtech etc. I have absurdflow
4. You might might consider a GTX3071 for a little more headroom if you want to run 400whp comfortably
5. Really no need for a dual feed fuel rail other than they are pretty. A walbro 255 should be enough but consider the Deatschwerks or Aeromotive single pumps for a little more flow
6. For other supporting stuff it would be helpful to know what you are going to use the car for. Track work with extended high rpms? Street with occasional zings to 8K. For track work a better harmonic damper-Supermiata or ATI, Shim under bucket lifters(supertech or Mazdaspeed), inconel exhaust valves, accusump maybe
For more sustained high hp use like track work you also need cooling mods-better radiator-trackspeed unit is the best, oil cooler etc
Will need some EMS
Brakes, suspension will need some work for track work.

My setup is this
Currently Supertech 8.6:1 pistons, forged rods, ACL bearings, ARP head and main studs. mildly ported head with stock cams for now.
Boundary engineering race pump, ATI superdamper
DIY auto individual coils
Hydra 2.7(will probably switch to AEM infinity soon)
Absurdflow manifold and DP with GT3071, 3" exhaust
Modified honda intake manifold and 67mm Blox throttle body
1000cc injectors and FM fuel rail, single walbro 255
Trackspeed radiator, FM oil cooler
Xida Coilovers, v8roadsters control arms, endlinks, sway bars, frame rail braces
Twin plate clutch, OS giken diff
Hardtop, rollbar, door bars, getting a Tillet seat and I am sure I forgot some other stuff. Tires wheels,hubs etc, gauges(my prosports suck)
I am sure this is over 25K lost count long ago
I made 340hp(Mustang dyno) on a mild tune without the race ported head and integral cams which will be installed later.
Time spent-2+ yrs
Time spend driving said build-it would depress me to think about it.
I would say one thing about doing a build like this. Buy the right stuff in stages. Do not cheap out of stuff to get you through till when you can buy the stuff you want. You will waste more time(if you do all the work yourself) or money(if you do not) replacing stuff later.
I would highlight that this type of build is not for DD. Forget it unless you like to walk.
Excellent info, thank you.
I am still researching pros and cons on a VVT head. I was planning on using a 99-00 head with some port/polish work and supertech valvetrain

curious on how the modded honda IM worked?
difficult to mod?
I am considering the IM Begi. offers with the 70mm throttle body

I DD a 2000 Audi A6, great for WI winters and soon to add my moms 1999 nissan maxima to my DD fleet. The miata is def. not my DD just a fun project to waste time and money on...women come with too much drama
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:35 PM   #37
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There is no doubt the VVT head is better for area under the curve for HP. It is just limited currently by the 7500rpm harmonic that damages the valve train. Cams are limited to regrinds at this time or expensive Maruha units. A different cam and lightened valve train components might solve the harmonic issue but who knows. Savington would have the best idea as I know Trackspeed is working on reground VVT cams. Might not even be an issue if you just want high rpms for bragging rights as the motor doesn't make huge power like a honda at elevated RPMs.

The honda intake manifold has port spacing very close to the BP head and so all that is needed is to cut the flange off the honda and a stock bp manifold and then weld them together. I think mine was about $350 for all the work. The blox manifolds are cheap and relatively easy to find. The edelbrock performer manifold might be even better but the throttle body mounting is at an odd angle. I think the begi manifold has shown power gains but it wasn't available when I did mine. One of the other members here is building sheet metal manifolds as well.
I was just thinking about my post and to be honest building cars can become a never ending quest to obtain cool parts rather than actually driving the car which is ok if that is what you want.
You could have a reliable 250whp miata for a lot less and drive the crap out of it.
Honestly I have vague fears of building this car and then stuffing it into a wall.
but that's the way it goes.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:37 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Samakhan View Post
...women come with too much drama
You've come to the right place, then. We are often accused of being averse to women.

I'd stay away from the Hydra. Megasquirt 3x custom built by Braineak or AEM would both work well. The MS has a great autotune feature in TunerStudio VE Analyze Live.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:47 PM   #39
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what do you mean six. girls think miatas are the sexiest cars ever.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:57 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
pictures would be way more helpful....videos even more so. Nothing more boring than someone describing their previous cars in a post
Pics of said cars...unfortunately no videos on this laptop or engine shots will have to dig some up later
GSX






GSR




Neoooonnnn





Quote:
Originally Posted by krissetsfire View Post
Reason for low compression is to keep det down. if det isn't an issue then why not get the benefits of a high comp motor. talk to sav about it if they are going to build you a motor. If you plan on running pump at all then forget it and go 8.6. There are a few members on here running higher compression on e85 and making awesome power.
yea i dont plan on running e85 all the time
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