---- vtech cams, use VVT, enjoy low end.

 

U dont like dual height cams?

 

no

 

Vtec is too complicated. Just strap 2 electric motors to the front of the cams and have electric continuously variable timing.

 

Soooooo, vtec is too complicated so instead you'll add 2 electric motors and control those and measure each motors position independently and turn them with the same rate as the motor and have each output perfectly timed with the cam sensor and add and subtract degrees based on that... and you say vtec is complicated because it has 1 bigger lobe that activates at 5k or whatever rpm? You gotta be trolling.

 

lol

 

it's not that it's complicated, it's that constant varing intake cam angles are better for more than 1/10 of your rpm band. and we already have a head/cam for it.

however, creating a custom cam, solenoid, valve cover, oil lines, etc etc, IS MUCH MORE complicated over installing a 01-05 VVT head.

 

I was joking. Both are overly complicated for our purposes because it would probably be cheaper and more reliable to put in a motor that had the features from factory. And I think a debate over which is more is more difficult to develop and install is pretty pointless and off topic.

 

Agree, but before we call that side topic dead... VVT can't manipulate lift, VTEC does. That's why iVTEC pairs them.

 

I used a blox manifold designed for the B18C1 in my set up.

The port runners lined up pretty well with the stock 99 intake manifold. You need to measure each part, to determine the optimum spot to cut. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics from the port end, but IIRC, two of the ports lined up perfectly, and the 2 outer were off by at most, 1/8" (honda manifold being bigger). Remember that the honda manifold has larger diameter runners than the Miata one, so it will be necking down in this area anyway. I ended up using the stock Miata throttle body.



I am using a roots supercharger, so can see the difference in back pressure between manifolds. I have tested the stock 99 manifold, a stock lower 99 manifold with a hollowed out upper manifold, and the honda manifold.

With my set up, at 5500rpm, I am moving ~470CFM, while at 7000rpm I am moving ~640CFM.
The stock intake manifold, had a pressure increase of 4psi from 5500rpm to 7000rpm. The hollowed out out upper manifold, had a pressure increase of 2.4psi, while the honda had a pressure increase of 1psi.

The VE peak moved from ~ 4800rpm to 6200rpm on my set up. The intake manifold runners, measure about 7.75" from the outside edge of the flange, to the entrance of the plennum.

 

Wouldnt that spacer between the throttle body and plenum have the effect of increasing the volume of the plenum? Would this have any effect on the rpm of peak VE compared to a honda manifold with the throttle body bolted straight to the plenum?

 

probably not much. I think it's pretty clever.

 

I dunno. With that extra 3" of volume, I think he's fucked.

 

too bad you want more volume in the plenum when boosted.

 

looks pretty cool. mine still hasn't been made. was going to get a custom mazda intake head flange, but looks like a cut 99 stocker works pretty well actually...

 

Just finished mine. New Intake, stepping up 3/4" in exhaust diameter and new IC pipes. Then it's Back to DIY Autotune next Tuesday to see if it makes any difference at all.

 

your welds look nicer!

How about a picture from the end you welded, from inside the runners, showing the mismatch between the stock flange, and the honda runners?

Oh, and how much boost are you running?

 

Getting it test fitted, Everything looks to line up well. I am going to have to move some of the fuel plumbing but other than that it should be fine.





I am going to "port mach" the manifold this afternoon. I'll post pictures of the runners this afternoon.

It was making 18psi at 7500 before. I'm hopping the new manifold, header and exhaust will get that down to 14 or so.

 

Sold it recently, too.

 

I think the cherry on top of this mod is running a 65 or 70mm throttle body. if you can find one for a good price. Here's a link to a bit of digging I did on getting one wired up. It works perfectly with my Hydra calibration. Best of luck if anyone was trying to get this worked out. Lots of OEM ones work out too.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...22/#post900457