Idle Advance Control Valve (IACV) on Throttle Body - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 06-20-2012, 09:28 PM   #21
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I dont run one and mine is a street car.
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:55 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
Why would you want to remove it even for race application? 2oz weight reduction?
building the car from scratch. Not sure that the box of parts i have that is an engine even has the iacv. I also would need to run all the wires to get this setup and then tune it.

If there is any weight savings thats a plus but its more along the lines of keeping this car as reasonably simple as possible. Deleting the iacv will loose me a circuit to add and to potentially diagnose if there is some kind of problem with either the tune, wiring or hardware.


That being said, i read a few other threads on this forum since and have come to the conclusion that it will be left off.
I can set the idle to 1000 and not worry... it will never be a street car.
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:29 AM   #23
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How about when fans turn on, or you raise the windows and all that? Track car sure no windows but still have the fans.
When the fans come on it dips a little bit little bit then comes back up. no big deal. With 1000cc injectors I had some issues coming off the throttle it would sometimes dip a little bit too low and stall. Raising it up to about 1000rpm fixed that.

There is a lot more to idle than just the idle valve. Timing and fuel have a huge effect. For example, if your idle fuel cells are not very close in value it's possible to have oscillations.
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:09 AM   #24
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You have an idle dip with the fans? That's odd.
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:00 PM   #25
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I have two 12's in parallel and the idle dips and comes back up when they power on.
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:06 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by soviet View Post
When the fans come on it dips a little bit little bit then comes back up. no big deal. With 1000cc injectors I had some issues coming off the throttle it would sometimes dip a little bit too low and stall. Raising it up to about 1000rpm fixed that.

There is a lot more to idle than just the idle valve. Timing and fuel have a huge effect. For example, if your idle fuel cells are not very close in value it's possible to have oscillations.
When I was running my DW1000's I would get a slight dip when I would come off the throttle, but it would never stall. When I switched to ID1000's the slight dip coming off throttle did sometimes cause me to stall. Raising the idle rpms did not help that much. So I have reinstalled an idle valve. I am also using a ford throttle body so my results might be slightly different then the stock throttle body.
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:41 PM   #27
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If I could do it over I'd have deleted mine. I have it unplugged right now, car idles around 1100. My valve went bad, so with it plugged in the idle is all over the place
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