I dont run one and mine is a street car.

 

building the car from scratch. Not sure that the box of parts i have that is an engine even has the iacv. I also would need to run all the wires to get this setup and then tune it.

If there is any weight savings thats a plus but its more along the lines of keeping this car as reasonably simple as possible. Deleting the iacv will loose me a circuit to add and to potentially diagnose if there is some kind of problem with either the tune, wiring or hardware.


That being said, i read a few other threads on this forum since and have come to the conclusion that it will be left off.
I can set the idle to 1000 and not worry... it will never be a street car.

 

When the fans come on it dips a little bit little bit then comes back up. no big deal. With 1000cc injectors I had some issues coming off the throttle it would sometimes dip a little bit too low and stall. Raising it up to about 1000rpm fixed that.

There is a lot more to idle than just the idle valve. Timing and fuel have a huge effect. For example, if your idle fuel cells are not very close in value it's possible to have oscillations.

 

You have an idle dip with the fans? That's odd.

 

I have two 12's in parallel and the idle dips and comes back up when they power on.

 

When I was running my DW1000's I would get a slight dip when I would come off the throttle, but it would never stall. When I switched to ID1000's the slight dip coming off throttle did sometimes cause me to stall. Raising the idle rpms did not help that much. So I have reinstalled an idle valve. I am also using a ford throttle body so my results might be slightly different then the stock throttle body.

 

If I could do it over I'd have deleted mine. I have it unplugged right now, car idles around 1100. My valve went bad, so with it plugged in the idle is all over the place