Just purchased kit with MSPNP on the way. Questions. GT2871R. Stock Internals. 1.8 - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-28-2013, 11:44 AM   #21
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I had a GT2871R on my NA, granted the engine wasn't stock but it wasn't an extreme/all-out build either. Anyway the adjustable actuator rod and ported internal wastegate worked just fine to control boost without sacrificing spool and without creep. Also was on a 3" exhaust. Started with it set around 7-8 psi after the engine was first built and then adjusted it to 10 psi after the break-in and some tuning on the Hydra.

You also never loosen the rod to where the flapper won't close. If you can't obtain your minimum boost target without loosening it that much (which is a lot by the way), you need a different length adjustment rod end.
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:48 AM   #22
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I have a 3" exhaust, IWG, cheap chinese 2870 and no boost creep at 6-8-10psi. Perhaps a fabricated mani might increase the propensity to creep due to higher efficiency, but I'm running a FM log mani. My Greddy Profec B gives me predictable results every time and so does wastegate-only pressure.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:17 PM   #23
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I didn't have problems with creep on my stock 1994 motor and gt2871. If you do have trouble I'm sure you could find someone with a 2560 that would be happy to trade, if you don't have aspirations for a built motor you'd probably be better off anyway.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:47 PM   #24
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I didn't have problems with creep on my stock 1994 motor and gt2871. If you do have trouble I'm sure you could find someone with a 2560 that would be happy to trade, if you don't have aspirations for a built motor you'd probably be better off anyway.
I'm assuming that you ran 7psi?

I'm leaning towards the External Wastegate route..and here's why.

For a new actuator it'll be about $100shipped from here. (Garrett Internal Wastegate Actuator Special 7 PSI GT28R | eBay)

Wouldn't it just be a little more for a Tial Wastegate and flange?
I'm still uncertain as to what I want to do with the internal wastegate valve. Either weld it shut or find another route that isn't permanent.

But yes, if it's not too much then I'm willing to spend extra money for a permanent fix and to also have a more reliable setup.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:04 PM   #25
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A typical Tial 38mm wastegate is about $250 new or you can search various classified sections and find a use one for a bit less. Depending on who does the work to your manifold, they can provide the flange (or they're about $20 for a normal bolt type), so figure in the cost of labor for modifying the manifold. Most people weld the flapper shut when moving to an external gate. Then you'd need to rework the downpipe to support an external gate or buy a new one suited for it.

Don't know your budget, but you may consider selling just the manifold and downpipe you have now and buying a manifold and downpipe already made for an external gate from BEGi or FM (FM has the FMIIR system which is externally gated). If you have log manifold now, both BEGi and FM log manifolds put the turbos in the same location, so your intercooler piping will still hook up properly.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:12 PM   #26
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A typical Tial 38mm wastegate is about $250 new or you can search various classified sections and find a use one for a bit less. Depending on who does the work to your manifold, they can provide the flange (or they're about $20 for a normal bolt type), so figure in the cost of labor for modifying the manifold. Most people weld the flapper shut when moving to an external gate. Then you'd need to rework the downpipe to support an external gate or buy a new one suited for it.
I found a new 38mm Tial MV-S wastegate with flanges, v-bands, 9psi spring, etc for $175 local. I'm considering it but not yet familiar with a water-cooled wastegate. I'll have to do more research on that. What do you guys think?
TiAL Sport.com

I do have a little Harbor Freight welder that I can use to weld on the flange and the valve shut. That should save me a few bucks and give me a bit of that DIY feeling. My welding skills isn't great but I have welded an exhaust system together. I'll consider doing that or taking it to a professional welder.

I have the BEGi log style manifold. I looked at it and found a flat spot on top in the middle where I can mount the flange. Hopefully it won't interfere with the hood or other components.

Last edited by Ek9.civic; 01-28-2013 at 05:15 PM. Reason: added for info.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:17 PM   #27
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IWG actuators are $40 new on egay.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:08 PM   #28
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This is hilarious, For years we've been bashing n00bs for completely half assing things and ghetto rigging their cars, theis guy wants to do something completely the RIGHT WAY and you gays are basically talking him into doing it the cheaper, inferior way that's not guaranteed to work
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:41 AM   #29
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I'm cheap and inferior. It's what I do.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:26 AM   #30
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This is hilarious, For years we've been bashing n00bs for completely half assing things and ghetto rigging their cars, theis guy wants to do something completely the RIGHT WAY and you gays are basically talking him into doing it the cheaper, inferior way that's not guaranteed to work
I assume that 90% of the site runs internal wastegates without any issues and you're suddenly acting like it's some timebomb $99 ebay manifold with a powercard running 15:1 at WOT.

The site is all about cheap and function, if he's already got one very workable setup it's more than likely going to be cheaper and easier to lower the boost on the IWG than to convert the whole thing to EWG. If he wants to upgrade that's great, but most people just don't seem to think it's necessary.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:43 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
This is hilarious, For years we've been bashing n00bs for completely half assing things and ghetto rigging their cars, theis guy wants to do something completely the RIGHT WAY and you gays are basically talking him into doing it the cheaper, inferior way that's not guaranteed to work

Replacing the wasgate actuator is cheaper and easier than welding a EWG flange to a cast iron manifold, reworking to the downpipe to accept the EWG tube, and buying a new EWG. And it IS guaranteed to work.

Sure I like doing things the *right* way, but I also don't like opening up cans of worms; the added EWG could easily end up being the ghetto-rigged solution.

This would be like buying a new set of 949 6ULs in 15x10 with unmoutned Hoosier slicks, that you mount and balance yourself using a prybar and super glue, because you got a flat tire on your DD miata.


Hell, I bet if he calls BEGi, they can hook him up with the lower pressure wastegate, I know FM sells the 8psi one for $60, but I'm unsure it will mount properly due to the difference in setups.
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