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K-swap How-to: A by-the-book K24A2 NB2 swap build thread

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K-swap How-to: A by-the-book K24A2 NB2 swap build thread

 
Old 05-26-2016, 02:17 AM
  #41  
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Great thread. Ill be watching this with interest as my K24/20 is almost done and ready for the transplant.

Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?

if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?

david
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Old 05-26-2016, 03:02 AM
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I love this so much. When ive had enough if the BP I need to do this. Thank you for the impressive documentation. Many cats given.
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by d k View Post
Great thread. Ill be watching this with interest as my K24/20 is almost done and ready for the transplant.

Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?

if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?

david

I think even with a dry sump pan it would be tight. But the bigger concern would be pump placement. The Dailey dry sump would not work because it would hit the mounts and or steering shaft. There is not much room to the sides of the motor down low. This is why the normally alternator relocations can not be used.
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Old 05-26-2016, 08:04 AM
  #44  
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Subscribed for useful info! Really considering this swap for the MSM!
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by d k View Post
Great thread. Ill be watching this with interest as my K24/20 is almost done and ready for the transplant.

Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?

if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?

david
I didn't look that closely. The pan was designed to be installed with a rack that was fully shaved/clearanced, so we did that before assembling the two. I can't comment on what would hit what if you go with a significantly different oiling system.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:05 PM
  #46  
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Fair enough.

Thank you bery much


Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I didn't look that closely. The pan was designed to be installed with a rack that was fully shaved/clearanced, so we did that before assembling the two. I can't comment on what would hit what if you go with a significantly different oiling system.
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Old 05-26-2016, 10:44 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by d k View Post
Great thread. Ill be watching this with interest as my K24/20 is almost done and ready for the transplant.

Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?

if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?

david
Since this come up from time to time, it's worth mentioning that I've been working with Emilio and especially John at Hytech on designing a production version of the external wet sump system they built. Although it won't be the cheapest thing, there is demand for it.

In the mean time, our test car is still going strong on three years of track use. We threw an Accusump in the car last year for good measure, although I did an event without it a week ago without issue. It's a nice, affordable insurance policy though, and I'd recommend it for any K series track car, Miata or otherwise.
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by K Miata View Post
We threw an Accusump in the car last year for good measure, although I did an event without it a week ago without issue. It's a nice, affordable insurance policy though, and I'd recommend it for any K series track car, Miata or otherwise.
This is good advice, especially if you are running r-compounds on track. We have installed a lot of accusumps on our k-powered race cars throughout the years, from Grand Am cars to HPDE cars. They really are cheap insurance. They do add some complexity (extra oil lines, etc), but the result is worth the effort.

My k20 prelude is currently racing without one, and I've yet to have any problems, but I am planning on installing one sooner than later.


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Old 05-27-2016, 09:53 AM
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Great thread!

Love seeing how far David has come in the year since I got mine going. So much has been made turn-key, and the more street-oriented parts (header & intake) will make this more popular. I especially like the K_Tuner option since it is based on K24 hardware and does not require swapping so much of the K20 stuff over.

Not to derail the build thread, but a couple of things for those considering doing this swap:

1) A manual steering rack is still available from Mazda and the engine fits a bit easier that way. Personally, I like the slower ratio...especially on the street. Not cheap, but if you have a source for parts at dealer cost, its not that bad. If you get it from Mazdaspeed Motorports, you have to pay the core charge.

2) The OE TSX exhaust manifold can be made to work and is not bad (tubular, but short tubes). A little grinding on the flange and it fits right in there. Can save a few bucks that way, and can mate it up to pretty much any Miata exhaust after making a crossover tube similar to what David supplies with his header options. Further, the OE manifold has a heat shield...and these motors make a TON of underhood heat with exposed headers.

3) Bleeding air out of the cooling system is a challenge. David's rear water outlet has a bleeder hole that makes it way easier.

Last edited by AndyHollis; 05-27-2016 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyHollis View Post
Great thread!

Love seeing how far David has come in the year since I got mine going. So much has been made turn-key, and the more street-oriented parts (header & intake) will make this more popular. I especially like the K_Tuner option since it is based on K24 hardware and does not require swapping so much of the K20 stuff over.

Thanks Andy! That's the focus for 2016 - to make this swap available to as many enthusiasts as possible.

Originally Posted by AndyHollis View Post
3) Bleeding air out of the cooling system is a challenge. David's rear water outlet has a bleeder hole that makes it way easier.
The best solution here is to jack the front end of the car way up in the air. It makes it MUCH easier to get it burped.
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Old 05-27-2016, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by K Miata View Post
The best solution here is to jack the front end of the car way up in the air. It makes it MUCH easier to get it burped.
Yup. Nothing new for me. Our crossflows are a little tough to get fully burped too. Throw the front end 18" in the air and use a magic funnel and it all comes out pretty easy.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:27 PM
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I use a lisle funnel setup and keep the front jacked up and I works like a charm.
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:48 AM
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Got all the suspension back into the car. The control arms get Energy Suspension bushings, SAE863 sleeve bearings, and 1144 steel sleeves. Low NVH, super low stiction. Big thanks to Bob Bundy for helping me out with this setup.



Bauer Extended LBJs for added camber at sensible ride heights.





In situ with Gen2 XIDAs and fresh Trackspeed brake lines. The car will run the OEM Sport brakes for now, but I suspect a Trackspeed 11.75” BBK will find its way in at some point. An RB tubular FSB, stock RSB, and Supermiata endlinks will round out the suspension setup.





With all the coolant hoses built, we bled out the cooling system by lifting the nose into the air and using a magic funnel. It drank another half-gallon of coolant after the thermostat cycled, so everything did its job.



Header starting to color up nicely.



Once it’s on its own four feet again, we will start to put the interior together. New tan carpet from Moss Motors will go with the tan Probax seats that currently live in my ‘02SE, christened “Acamas” (son of Theseus). Acamas will get a set of black Probax leather seats to match the black interior in that car. The Blackbird Fabworx GT3 bar has made several appearances in photos already, and a Robbins canvas softtop will complete the interior transformation.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Got all the suspension back into the car. The control arms get Energy Suspension bushings, SAE863 sleeve bearings, and 1144 steel sleeves. Low NVH, super low stiction. Big thanks to Bob Bundy for helping me out with this setup.
What is maintenance like with these?

With all the coolant hoses built, we bled out the cooling system by lifting the nose into the air and using a magic funnel. It drank another half-gallon of coolant after the thermostat cycled, so everything did its job.
Pics of coolant hoses?
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Old 06-01-2016, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyHollis View Post
What is maintenance like with these?
They are billed as "maintenance-free" but I'm not buying any bridges in Brooklyn this week. My expectation is for them to be fairly low-maintenance, though. If stiction increases over time, we'll evaluate whether or not to add some form of additional lubricant (the sleeve bearings are oil-impregnated already) or just plan to replace the sleeve bearings at regular (multi-year) intervals.

Pics of coolant hoses?
I will snap some next time I'm with the car.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 06-01-2016, 01:20 PM
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Are you using any grease to keep crap out of them? That is the plan for mine.
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Old 06-01-2016, 01:28 PM
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I'm running a SADFab bronze bearing retrofit in 4 locations (delrin in the rest) I grease them just to keep junk out. In Oregon I get dirt and water and grime everywhere in the car, and the grease makes sure it stays out.

Similar to greasing delrin bushings, it isn't needed, but it helps with longevity.

The big bushing megathread has a lot of info covering all of it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...cussion-87573/
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Old 06-08-2016, 12:06 AM
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Coming together nicely, and quickly. For coolant hose I don't see why more people don't run AN hoses it makes life much easier!
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by redsox View Post
Coming together nicely, and quickly. For coolant hose I don't see why more people don't run AN hoses it makes life much easier!
Because it'sapproximately 20 times the cost.
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Old 06-08-2016, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by redsox View Post
Coming together nicely, and quickly. For coolant hose I don't see why more people don't run AN hoses it makes life much easier!
Not only does it cost more, it can be very problematic. I have used AN hose on my old race miata and on my Kmiata. And on both cars i fought with defects in the hose ends and warped flares from welding. I have had more leaks then i think i ever would have had with rubber.

Yes they look great and just unscrewing the line is nice. But when you buy $250 worth of fuel line and you have 5 leaks, it gets old fast. Now i run the aluminum seals on all my AN flares for good measure. And i don't buy the cheap summit brand fittings. I have even had issues with earls. My new favorite is fragola.
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