K-swap How-to: A by-the-book K24A2 NB2 swap build thread - Page 7 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 09-22-2016, 04:53 PM   #121
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Any plans to boost the K24? Although I have a feeling neither the 5 or 6 speed tranny will hold up with that amount of torque.
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Old 09-22-2016, 06:50 PM   #122
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Any plans to boost the K24? Although I have a feeling neither the 5 or 6 speed tranny will hold up with that amount of torque.
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Old 09-22-2016, 07:07 PM   #123
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Any plans to boost the K24? Although I have a feeling neither the 5 or 6 speed tranny will hold up with that amount of torque.
Do the math. Way easier/cheaper to boost a BP and you're still way over the torque capacity of the AZ-6. Sweet spot of a K swap is a junkyard K24, N/A on pump gas with a few bolt ons. Anything past that and it's akin to trying to build a 190whp N/A BP, rapidly diminishing returns.
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Old 09-23-2016, 05:39 AM   #124
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I wouldn't say diminishing returns at all, if NA power is what your after. I looked at the swap as having the best platform to build on. A great chassis with a great motor, i didn't nickel and dime my swap and compare it to a boosted BP because i know that the purpose of the swap was to upgrade the ultimate potential of the car boosted or NA. After having the car running for over a year now I can say that i would go this route over a boosted BP any day.

Now i have a car that can be 300 whp NA and not over power the miata drivetrain. Or i can have a 500 whp boosted car and i would be in the same boat as the big turbo BP guys. But the cost of the swap sometimes needs to be a wash. We all spend money on these cars because we love these cars. There are much better options out the for HP per dollar.

If you can forget what you spent to get the motor into the car and look at the cost of a motor build vs motor build, the K wins every time. Its 10k for a supermiata whammy engine with all the bells and whistles for maybe 200whp, for that same amount 4piston racing can give you a 340whp K24. Bolt on a turbo kit to a BP for 5k and you get 250 whp Bolt on a turbo kit on a k24 for 5k and you get 450 whp.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:35 PM   #125
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If you can forget what you spent to get the motor into the car
Well sure, if you can just forget the $6-7k you have to spend to get to the baseline......
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:05 PM   #126
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Well sure, if you can just forget the $6-7k you have to spend to get to the baseline......
Ooooh I like this game, I'll just forget the 30k I spent swapping my engine I can get like 600whp for a few thousand with a supercharger. That's how things work right?

Anyone able to match 600whp for 5-6 grand?
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:10 PM   #127
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I think you've got us there.

ANYWAY... A lot of it is preference. You can get 500 whp for $15k (conservatively, realistically more like $20k with a beefy drivetrain needed to hold it) and a turbo'd KSwap doing all the work yourself. Or, you can get a little less than that for about the same money with an LS swap. Different strokes.

I Should probably stop promoting the thread drift though. This is a beautiful build.

Last edited by turbofan; 09-23-2016 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 09-23-2016, 03:12 PM   #128
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Anyone able to match 600whp for 5-6 grand?
Forget about the $20k it takes to put an LSx into a Miata chassis and the $500-700 for the HPTuners license and dyno retune is the cheapest 400whp you'll ever buy
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Old 09-23-2016, 08:12 PM   #129
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Well sure, if you can just forget the $6-7k you have to spend to get to the baseline......
right, it's a wash. it's only money, you'll make more. Cars are no investment, you do it cause it makes you happy.
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:15 PM   #130
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I can't see any of the pictures anymore and this thread needs an update anyways...
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:33 PM   #131
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I can't see any of the pictures anymore and this thread needs an update anyways...
well, I've been driving the car basically every day since the last update here.

Once I get my other car and can have this laid up again, I might start planning a ground up engine build, get it prepped and ready to drop in, then spend a weekend doing the swap. I'd love to have another 40 or so WHP at least.
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:44 PM   #132
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Bonus picture. I really just wanted something to move my bike around quickly :-P
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Old 03-02-2017, 08:16 AM   #133
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I always feel it's necessary to plug my own solution when I see this. (PS, ignore the flats on the road bike, my dad borrowed it)

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Old 03-02-2017, 09:46 AM   #134
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First KMiata with a bicycle attached to the back? I think so!
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Old 03-03-2017, 11:46 AM   #135
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A superb creation and definitely the way to go.However us poor devils on this side of the pond have a steering column in the wrong position for the inlet..
Will have to look into clearances and freight cost for a full install kit.

Last edited by phildent; 03-03-2017 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 05-03-2017, 04:38 PM   #136
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A DW100 replaces the factory fuel pump in the tank for a little extra capacity without overpowering the OEM 60psi FPR.

Apologies for the mild thread-jack - what did you use for fuel safe heat shrink on your in-tank rewire? I tried some PTFE heat shrink I found on Amazon, but it's not sealing completely. Given the intended environment, it's not work taking any risks.

TIA
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Old 05-03-2017, 05:23 PM   #137
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Fuel is not conductive. You just don't want bare metal touching. I used PTFE heatshrink with good results.
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Old 05-03-2017, 05:36 PM   #138
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Fuel is not conductive. You just don't want bare metal touching. I used PTFE heatshrink with good results.
Well sheeeiiiiiit. Thanks for the confirmation Aidan, I'll put it back together with the PTFE. Hopefully this will be useful to someone else as well.
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Old 05-03-2017, 05:36 PM   #139
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Apologies for the mild thread-jack - what did you use for fuel safe heat shrink on your in-tank rewire? I tried some PTFE heat shrink I found on Amazon, but it's not sealing completely. Given the intended environment, it's not work taking any risks.

TIA
Definitely don't use unrated heat shrink. I used rubber fuel hose and slid it over the crimp. Then I used the coiled stuff that goes over the wires from the factory to keep the fuel hose in place. You can also stagger the crimps to ensure they won't touch. If there's no possible way for metal to metal contact to happen, you technically don't need heat shrink, as long as the crimp is good enough that you don't feel you need strain relief. Gasoline is an insulator, and there is no concern of current traveling through it.
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