Long-rod BP build underway - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 02-25-2012, 03:01 PM   #21
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The F20C is actually pretty strong below 5000. it is just that when Vtec kicks in (yo) its bipolar welterweight cage fighter side makes the other side feel like a libertarian vegan.
I'm a cagefighter vegan. Serious.
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:03 PM   #22
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Still no word on the specifics of this unit, no word on cost, no word what it's suppose to do as to is it increases low end and mid range torque. So why should we interested if the seller offers up no info?
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:42 PM   #23
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JKav (Jason Kavanaugh) works for Inside Line (Edmunds) and he's not selling anything. I'm sure all the gory details for the build will be included in the continuing "1997 Mazda MX-5 Miata: Long Term Road Tests" series found here. You can read about the details as soon as they publish them, just like everyone else. As to the benefits, look at the link hussy posted or read the damn article linked w/comments and it should be somewhat obvious.

Ungh, why do I bother?
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:47 PM   #24
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lol
this is not an advertisement.
its a show off of badassery
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:48 PM   #25
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EO2K...Haha, you were nicer than most would have been.
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:31 PM   #26
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BP rod length and piston height
5.228 + 1.20 =6.428
Honda rod and custom piston length
5.392 + 1.020 = 6.414 (.014 diff) Rod ratio increases to 1.611

The BMW rod is 5.510.
This means that the piston height must be .919 (23.342mm)to make the stock height of 6.428. Rod ratio works out to 1.64. I didn't think J&E or Wisco could do that short.
JKav, what did you say the piston height was for these?

Last edited by 2manyhobyz; 02-25-2012 at 10:37 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:34 PM   #27
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EO2K...Haha, you were nicer than most would have been.
I know, I need to put away the noob spoon. Sinus infection + bronchitis is a ----------er, but the drugs sure are good!
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:32 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by my97miata View Post
Still no word on the specifics of this unit, no word on cost, no word what it's suppose to do as to is it increases low end and mid range torque. So why should we interested if the seller offers up no info?
You know those "most interesting man in the world" commercials for Dos Equis? Thoese were originally written for Jkav in a previous life by Billy Shakespeare.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:13 PM   #29
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I'd like to see how changing the rod ratio changes the harmonics of the motor (make it run smoother/vibrate less, hopefully). I read that article from MotoIQ when it came out, and they noted that their SR20 seemed to have run quieter(?).
In for results.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:40 PM   #30
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You know those "most interesting man in the world" commercials for Dos Equis? Thoese were originally written for Jkav in a previous life by Billy Shakespeare.
Basically this. My favorite thing to read on the internet is people arguing with JKav - it's like interviewing the conductor of a train while they're in the middle of crashing it.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:42 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagerust View Post
I'd like to see how changing the rod ratio changes the harmonics of the motor (make it run smoother/vibrate less, hopefully). I read that article from MotoIQ when it came out, and they noted that their SR20 seemed to have run quieter(?).
In for results.
A friends long rod 1.9 is the smoothest revving BP I have ever driven. No science there but my SOTP impression.
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:56 AM   #32
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So, who is going to call Mil.Spec and get a group buy worked up?
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:03 AM   #33
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So, who is going to call Mil.Spec and get a group buy worked up?
the same guy who calls JE for the piston group buy?
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:05 PM   #34
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I spent many an hour pouring over con-rod specs to try to find an off the shelf rod for a long rod for my non-vtec b18 motor. MotoIQ is building a long rod vtec B18 motor using Nissan rods but suprisingly the non-vtec and vtec crankshafts are quite different, so the Nissan rods won't fit my crank (non-vtec rod journals are wider).

My question was always this: What change in rod/ratio makes this all worthwhile?

Of the long rod builds I've heard about, everyone seems to be getting around a 0.08 increase in rod ratio. That's about what motoiq got with their SR20 motor and it seemed to have an appreciable affect.

To get a +0.08 rod/ratio for my non-vtec B18 it looked like I was going to have to get cutom pistons and rods, the dollars and cents just wasn't adding up for me.
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:29 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
A friends long rod 1.9 is the smoothest revving BP I have ever driven. No science there but my SOTP impression.
I figured as much.
If I ever do build a block, N/A or turbo, I would definitely cough up the coin to do this.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:41 PM   #36
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I figured as much.
If I ever do build a block, N/A or turbo, I would definitely cough up the coin to do this.
Fu power. I just want smooth. Like a Buick. /you
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:03 PM   #37
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^lol. While smoothness is one of the noticeable effects, I assure you that is not my reasoning for why I would choose to build a long-rod motor.
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:39 PM   #38
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More geeky deets, this time on the JE pistons. FSR, yo.

http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtest...the-house.html
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Long-rod BP build underway-project_miata_long_rod_je_pistons_fsr_isometric-thumb-717x477-115219.jpg  
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Old 02-29-2012, 03:35 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vehicular View Post
So, who is going to call Mil.Spec and get a group buy worked up?
Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
the same guy who calls JE for the piston group buy?
Pssht, I'd be in. Hey Sav, wanna put a set in my motor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JKav View Post
More geeky deets, this time on the JE pistons. FSR, yo.

http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtest...the-house.html
Such a tease...
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Old 02-29-2012, 09:52 AM   #40
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Question on the 2618 alloy. Since it has a higher rate of thermal expansion, and thus requires larger clearances, doesn't this mean that on a "daily" engine, were the engine spends a significant amount of time in cold condition, the cylinder walls will wear down a lot quicker, promoting an oval-like shape and losing compression in no time at all?

This seems like an alloy ideal for racing applications, where you don't actually expect an engine to last more than 10,000-20,000 racing miles.
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