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Manual Boost Control Install question.

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Old 10-21-2009, 08:18 AM
  #21  
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:P not very. the ring gear in the diff will go.
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:20 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
the open loop code kinda stinks. I mean I could get a perfect flat boost with it, the issue was, it would vary depending on temps. I could have 15psi one morning but only 11psi in the afternoon here.

my MBC holds perfectly flat to redline, I have two configurations for the EBC, use it to help spool or I can run it in parallel and fail to wastegate pressure for a high/low boost setting.

the new closed loop code for MS-II looks promising, im thinking about upgrading this winter to MS-II to try out the closed loop stuff.
hmmm good thing i have MS-II . just need to upgrade it to "Extra".
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Old 10-21-2009, 11:53 AM
  #23  
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So I need to look for a 1.8 diff Open or torsen before a clutch?

Originally Posted by Braineack
:P not very. the ring gear in the diff will go.
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Old 10-21-2009, 12:02 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by apariah
So I need to look for a 1.8 diff Open or torsen before a clutch?
If you haven't noticed your clutch slipping you're probably not at 200whp.

I would replace the clutch before the rear end if you have to choose.

I put in an ACT Xtreme in Mayish...and am still running the 1.6 open. I now finally have a 3.9 7" LSD on the shelf to swap in.

Slipping clutch may keep you from grenading the 6" rear though. I just left in my rear sway bar and small tires to act as a "fuse" for the diff. I'll lose traction before I put enough stress through it to blow it...or that theory has worked so far. I have lots of fun chasing the rear end around.
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Old 10-21-2009, 12:29 PM
  #25  
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I noticed the clutch slip at 8psi with a passenger from almost dead a few weeks ago. I don't do that anymore for the most part I'm rolling slowly on to boost rather than taking advantage of my neat launch control. But as soon as I have a new rear end and clutch I want to give it a try.
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