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Old 10-08-2015, 08:42 PM   #41
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The judgement is free, on the house.

So moving on, what about that second part? No cams = no moar topend, no pump = russian roulette with the stock opg.

Only the porter/polisher can tell you how much the head will flow, cause the stock 1.6 head is a piece of trash. And then the stock IM will choke you. And then the 2.5 dp. adn the list goes on
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:45 PM   #42
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Car looks nice! I gotta get around to getting my 99 repainted...
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:50 PM   #43
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Quote:
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The judgement is free, on the house.

So moving on, what about that second part? No cams = no moar topend, no pump = russian roulette with the stock opg.

Only the porter/polisher can tell you how much the head will flow, cause the stock 1.6 head is a piece of trash. And then the stock IM will choke you. And then the 2.5 dp. adn the list goes on
well its not stock..
the intake mani is very clean inside unlike most there was nothing to smooth out in it. A custom or begi intake manifold is on my list of to do's.

atleast i dont have a cheap suspension,,
i have ohlins dfv
fm sways and improved racing links
garagestar fender braces
fm butterfly
cannon rear
... i found a 1.6 head in the trash once,,,, jk jk


thanks it is original paint lucky me.
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:52 PM   #44
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I'm sure your car is nice.
But we'll always give you crap about the 1.6
So just roll with it.

And again, without flow numbers, you still don't know if the head will flow up top.

Or you can just remove the rev limit, put car on dyno, and..............see for yourself where it noses over?
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:52 PM   #45
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For what it's worth.. My street engine is fully balanced, ETD rods and It occasionally sees 8k shifts, and has the cams/valvetrain to spin that high. No OP failures in 9 years and almost 30k miles

Occasionally means at least 3-4 times every time I drive it

Last edited by Stealth97; 10-08-2015 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:54 PM   #46
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thanks stealth....
and who drives alot under 4k??? i was looking at that dyno confused??
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:59 PM   #47
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i cant wait to get the car dyno tuned . build has only 2k miles on it ..
ill post them up for sure. hopefully it is better than you expect 18psi..
dont expect much lol.
in your sub is that your gunmetal nb if so i like it is clean..

and i will be going e85 soon too
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:02 PM   #48
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Quote:
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thanks stealth....
and who drives alot under 4k??? i was looking at that dyno confused??
Well I do, but I have a 1.9L VVT on E85 with a Whipple, so low end torque? Yeah, got that by the bucket full.
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:07 PM   #49
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thanks stealth....
and who drives alot under 4k??? i was looking at that dyno confused??
Start data logging and on the street you may be surprised
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:08 PM   #50
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Start data logging and on the street you may be surprised
very true ... but i meant in a very hard manner
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:10 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedFox View Post
i cant wait to get the car dyno tuned . build has only 2k miles on it ..
ill post them up for sure. hopefully it is better than you expect 18psi..
dont expect much lol.
in your sub is that your gunmetal nb if so i like it is clean..

and i will be going e85 soon too
thanks
you'll love e85.
I'm sure your car will make plenty of power, even without overspinning the engine
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:24 PM   #52
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Harmonic balancer? Street or autox/track car?


Given the information, stock redline seems ideal. The cams don't really make any power above that anyways.
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:36 PM   #53
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Wait... California is a reason to not swap to a 1.8, but it's not a reason to not build a 1.6 and stick a non-carb-legal turbo kit on it?
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:20 PM   #54
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Wait... California is a reason to not swap to a 1.8, but it's not a reason to not build a 1.6 and stick a non-carb-legal turbo kit on it?
If you're inclined to revert to stock every two years for the smog testing, then it's a lot easier to pull out a turbo that than swap the motor every time. OTOH, most smog techs aren't going to notice the difference between a 1.6 and a 1.8 visually.

--Ian
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:42 AM   #55
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If you're inclined to revert to stock every two years for the smog testing, then it's a lot easier to pull out a turbo that than swap the motor every time. OTOH, most smog techs aren't going to notice the difference between a 1.6 and a 1.8 visually.

--Ian
this. no one notices my vvt motor and lack of pre-cat (when the oem heatshield is on the 01 header) on my 99.

****... last time I went to a smog shop the guy stood there with the clip board... long pause. Make? mazda... another long pause... Model? miata?!?. He walks away and proceeds to come back with a timing light to check timing. smh

op rev to stock redline. enjoy the noise and be happy. a few hundred rpm more isn't going to net you much and will risk opg, won't make power because of cams and if tracking, will risk eating throttle body screws.
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Old 10-10-2015, 08:28 PM   #56
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7000 rpm. 6000 rpm with the turbo. I found out the hard way that high rpm and boost and stock oil pump don't mix. My setup was completely bulletproof for years and years at 18 psi shifting around 6000-6500 rpm. Fixed my high rpm boost control problems and started making power up to 7500 rpms and boom oil pump didn't last a year of street driving. Was awesome while it lasted though.

If you change the oil pump and harmonic balancer, that combo is probably good for 8000 rev limit, but pointless because stock cams will murder your power above 6000 rpm. Unlike the 1.8L engines, you can't swap in a 99 head and flat top to fix this.
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Old 10-22-2015, 04:09 PM   #57
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Here is what happens to a oil pump when you detonate the engine at high boost levels. Run this 1.6L to 7900 only have this problem when tune up is not right.
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Max rpm on my build? yes it's already built-80-20121215_165332_resized_1_651dc040c5f7c067343b606cba6b0b2c5d3b7e88.jpg  
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Old 10-23-2015, 01:24 AM   #58
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I had a long talk with my engine builder. He Said " the only time I have seen an oil pump go out was when the driver flogged it before the engine and oil were up to temp." on a parade lap or other reasons.
he went on to say they have many spec miata engines , ep class cars and GT class engines that have stock oil pumps and no problems at very high rpms. . banging the rev limiter hard through turns

aside from that the early 1.6 was basicly a 323 turbo engine short nose crank like mine. with a different oil pump from my reasearch.
so yes you can break it .... i saw a 350z motor have a blown head gasket at 35k because the owner drove it hard on a cold motor...

i have a cold rev limiter at 4000 rpm so i can't push it till my temps are up.
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Old 10-23-2015, 01:30 AM   #59
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Quote:
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he went on to say they have many spec miata engines , ep class cars and GT class engines that have stock oil pumps and no problems at very high rpms. . banging the rev limiter hard through turns
just want to throw this out there... spec miata's have bone stock redlines and ep motors likely don't last long enough (10-20 hour rebuild cycles for competitive ones) for opg's to matter. ****... ep motors are just grenades in general.
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Old 10-23-2015, 02:15 PM   #60
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Yeah, saying we can do higher than stock redlines or that we can sustain stock redline for cumulatively long periods of time on stock gears because spec miata does it discounts the fact that spec miata runs very light weight oils for reduced drag and constantly rebuild their engines including replacing oil pumps.
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