McCully Racing Motors
12-27-2017, 10:02 PM
#23
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Green Cove Springs, Florida
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I think that it would be more fun to do the assembly and get my hands dirty and feel the engine was "mine" . If I were just going to write a check, I may as well buy an assembled car. Since I'll be working on another engine while the car is running with the current engine, there's plenty of time to source parts and machine shop work as I go.Thanks for the suggestion though. Paul
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04-20-2018, 05:22 PM
#24
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Location: Dallas
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in the course of looking around learning and researching for a future motor build, I came upon this:
McCully Racing Motors- Don't want a V8? How about a 2.0?
It is a company that sleeves 1.8 motors to yield a displacement of 1.952 liters. Their reasoning is that gaining displacement by bore was better, in the case of the Miata motor, than stroking it because it would keep the rev characteristics the same. They sell everything from a bare block to short block with forged pistons and forged rods ( quality commensurate with price ). I would like to have a built engine even though my power goals are modest. I'd just like to know that my engine would be pretty much bulletproof for my needs ( street driving and occasional auto x) at about 250 -275 whp. The Miata is one of my hobbies in my retirement and it doesn't need to be a budget project.
Even though I have assembled,engines in my younger days, I would need a machine shop in any event, so buying a pre-built block isn't out of the question.
Does anyone have any any experience with these folks? Opinions on the motor? My concern would be no, or minimal, space between the sleeves might reduce ability to cool. But then again, I really have no idea if that would be the case. The photos show the block, after being sleeved, and the sleeves would literally have to be nearly touching each other.
Thoughts?
Paul
McCully Racing Motors- Don't want a V8? How about a 2.0?
It is a company that sleeves 1.8 motors to yield a displacement of 1.952 liters. Their reasoning is that gaining displacement by bore was better, in the case of the Miata motor, than stroking it because it would keep the rev characteristics the same. They sell everything from a bare block to short block with forged pistons and forged rods ( quality commensurate with price ). I would like to have a built engine even though my power goals are modest. I'd just like to know that my engine would be pretty much bulletproof for my needs ( street driving and occasional auto x) at about 250 -275 whp. The Miata is one of my hobbies in my retirement and it doesn't need to be a budget project.
Even though I have assembled,engines in my younger days, I would need a machine shop in any event, so buying a pre-built block isn't out of the question.
Does anyone have any any experience with these folks? Opinions on the motor? My concern would be no, or minimal, space between the sleeves might reduce ability to cool. But then again, I really have no idea if that would be the case. The photos show the block, after being sleeved, and the sleeves would literally have to be nearly touching each other.
Thoughts?
Paul
Paul,
I have a McCully engine 1952 cc in my 2002. I had Keegan port a head and grind the cams for it. I'm just putting it back in the car now. I had a problem with the ECU (Hydra) that was in the middle of crapping out and caused a backfire and warped the head. The engines that McCully builds are rock solid. I also had to change out the clutch this round due to a brand new FM happy meal clutch was slipping. I was told by FM that it could handle whatever my GT3071R could through at it. They were wrong. I'm over 400 WHP and most likely way over that. I'm running 18 PSI of boost. Tom at McCully (owner) is very helpful. The car is rock solid is a street driving car that heads to the track to rip around it. I did go with the Manley rods. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
Regards,
Max
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04-20-2018, 05:48 PM
#25
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Opening up the bore as large as you can will significantly improve flow on these motors. If you run high lift cams, the valves are actually shrouded pretty significantly and you can't open that up beyond the bore.
If I were going to REALLY be stupid, I'd build a max overbore with a custom shorter stroke and really long rods. If I could get the stroke short enough to build an 85.5mm bore 1.6...I could take another 40 lbs off my car
If I were going to REALLY be stupid, I'd build a max overbore with a custom shorter stroke and really long rods. If I could get the stroke short enough to build an 85.5mm bore 1.6...I could take another 40 lbs off my car
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