What kind of power are you actually seeing at the wheels from the LFX? I've seen numbers from 240 to 260 at the wheels on on the few dyno charts I've seen.

 

Noticed you're using the X-lite uppers, but tubular lowers. Is this mainly for strength or mainly so you could add your endlink tabs? Or both?

 

I'm running the exact same setup, tubular lowers and billet uppers. The tubular lowers at least for me, will be more durable and take hits easier than the aluminum ones.

Plus the billet ones had an exorbitant lead time last i checked with V8R, so it was a win-win for me. PS, im still waiting on my billet upper rears that I ordered in october.

 

I didn't think of resistance to taking hits... that is true. I wasn't sure about actual end strength difference between the two, or real weight difference. I have X-lite uppers front and rear on delrin'd oem lowers at the moment and am considering getting tubular or x-lite for the lowers so i can move the delrin'd oem arms over to the DD with some tubular uppers. (I like how the aftermarket arms feel like they keep the butt of the car a bit more... planted? Less jiggly? puts power down better? I don't know... something.)

 

This was the reason for me, at the advice of Shandelle. The underside of my car takes quite a beating from jumping curbs and dipping wheels off-track. I haven't hit an arm, but it can happen.

 

Any update on the updated clutch assembly and disengagement problems?

 

Much improved, still not right. I can shift faster now - part of that is due to the shifter being fixed - but the clutch is also disengaging much more than it was because I can shift fast-ish and get the next gear instead of just running into a wall of crunching but it still grinds as it goes in. Considering switching back to a factory clutch/flywheel as an interim solution to see how it drives once a known working clutch is in there. I never used a stock assembly, have been using the SPEC parts from day 1.

 

How much of the emissions related vacuum accessories were you able to remove from the car without it throwing codes? My motor has tons of random emissions valves and hoses bolted to it.

Edit: my motor may not be out of a '14 Camaro as advertised. Alternator and oil filler neck are wrong. Wrong side of the motor for the alternator.




Can you do me a favor and confirm whether or not there is a vin number on the passenger side lower part of the block? Also should be another on the driver's side by the starter. My motor appears to have the vin ground off in both locations. Scrap yard is claiming that GM doesn't mark vin's on motors.

 

Gm doesn't stamp vins on engines anymore. They were stamping serial numbers but I think the last couple I've done just had stickers on them. Take pics of any numbers you got on it and if you have the serial number I can look that up in gm for you.

 

That looks like the impala accessories with a camaro intake and waterpump exit - missing the power steering that goes where the alternator is.

 

Based on a thread I randomly found there are 2 locations where a bin was supposed to be. See the below pics.

That said, whatever numbers were in these locations were clearly ground off with a grinder. Visibly left the marks and all. Shady


Edit TB is totally wrong too

 

How are you liking the 3.42? Thoughts of going to a 3.73?

 

 

What ended up being the correct threads for the water temp sensor in this location? And I thought I saw that the factory ECU already sent this info to your dash logger? Is this sensor redundant?

Thanks,
Ryan

 

Yes, that looks like the transverse mount LFX orientation, throttle body/alternator/oil fill seem... buick laCrosse? Dont the impalas have the throttle body opposite the accessories?

 

My notes say I used a 1/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT adapter there. Part number NEX-16146 from Summit.

 

Thank you. Not sure if I'll end up adding a second water temp sensor here or letting the AIM pickup the factory temp via the CAN connection to the ECU.

 

Just out of curiosity are you running any clutch pedal inputs to the ECU?

 

Negative. It's the Miata clutch pedal, and pedal stop switch is not wired to anything.

 

Saw in the track weight saving thread you mentioned using a Battery Tender LiFePO4 battery. Are you still using this with the LFX? If so, which model of theirs are you using? Looking for a lightweight replacement for my current stock battery while making sure it will turn over the larger LFX.