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Old 06-20-2010, 01:00 PM   #41
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Well, got a start on disconnecting a lot of the stuff required to pull the engine-


radiator
heater hoses
engine wiring harness
vacuum hoses
throttle cable
all charge piping
undertray

Still need to disconnect-

clutch line
oil lines
fuel lines
drain oil
pull and tuck a/c compressor
power steering
exhaust
driveshaft

Thigs to swap over-
turbo
injectors
oil feed
oil relocation adaptor
valve cover
coolant reroute stuff

I was really surprised how much junk was all over the radiator when I pulled it out. I could barely see light through the radiator and it looked like a few small fuzzy animals had been shredded and deposited on the face of the radiator. I washed it off and can now see through the fins. Also, my charge pipe from the turbo to the intercooler and the intercooler have moderate amounts of oil in them. I'm guessing it's from before I put the oil restrictor on the feed line to the turbo or from the valvecover breather (most likely).

Help me remember what all I need for the swap-
oil
coolant
brake fluid for the clutch line
new????
brake parts cleaner
clutch


Will have a picture of the strange looking engine bay tonight. I was actually surprised how little work was needed...just took time and some blood, but the level of skill was low.
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Old 06-20-2010, 07:48 PM   #42
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Might want to bring the radiator to a shop. I paid $35 to have a leak fixed and have it pressure tested. I'm sure they have some amazing industrial cleaning method that'll bring it like-new condition. Those birds could also of been plugging pin holes all this time, you wouldn't know till you first fire it up.
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Old 06-21-2010, 08:33 AM   #43
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Thanks man, but a good spraying with the hose and it was all nice and clean. There weren't any actual animals on the radiator...just a bunch of dust/fluff/pocket lint/bits of string/dust bunnies. I need to remember to spray off the a/c condensor because I'm sure it's probably dirty enough to be limiting some airflow as well.

Have a friend coming over tonight to help transport the new engine to the house and *maybe* pull the bad engine out.
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:15 PM   #44
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Are you pulling the tranny out with it in one piece?
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:15 PM   #45
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Yessir.
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:46 PM   #46
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Way easier then trying to split them in the car to pull the engine out.

Remember to drain the transmission fluid! A little bit goes a LONG way.
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:47 PM   #47
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NEVER PULL THE ENGINE WITHOUT THE TRANS. unless you're a little bitch and don't follow advice from the brain and want to make life harder on yourself.
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:50 PM   #48
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How old is the timing belt?
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:45 PM   #49
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Timing belt, as far as I know, is original..with 103k on it. Car was boosted for over 80k. It looked pretty "good" when I pulled everything apart to check the timing. Funny how it's advised to replace the t-belt @ 60k...where in the state of CA t-belts are supposed to be good for 100k...yet all timing belt part #s are the same. So technically, the t-belt is rated for 100k.

Today I'll be draining the oil and trans and buying a gal of Rotella syn for the engine and 2qts of RL 75/90 for the trans.
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:44 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
Timing belt, as far as I know, is original..with 103k on it. Car was boosted for over 80k. It looked pretty "good" when I pulled everything apart to check the timing. Funny how it's advised to replace the t-belt @ 60k...where in the state of CA t-belts are supposed to be good for 100k...yet all timing belt part #s are the same. So technically, the t-belt is rated for 100k.

Today I'll be draining the oil and trans and buying a gal of Rotella syn for the engine and 2qts of RL 75/90 for the trans.
May have jumped a few teeth
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:49 PM   #51
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Add to the disconnect list;

two connectors on the tranny (speed sensor and neutral switch?)
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:56 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
May have jumped a few teeth
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
I turn the crank enough to get the TDC mark at 12 o' clock and check the cam timing. It's all dead nuts perfect.
Just pointing that out.
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Old 06-21-2010, 04:05 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgmorr View Post
Add to the disconnect list;

two connectors on the tranny (speed sensor and neutral switch?)

Thank you.
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Old 06-21-2010, 04:07 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorNutFD3S View Post
Just pointing that out.
Missed that; I'm getting too old....thanks
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Old 06-21-2010, 04:08 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
Missed that; I'm getting too old....thanks
Time for a name change?
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Old 06-22-2010, 12:13 AM   #56
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OK, drained oil no biggie. Drained trans and was kinda surprised. The drain plug had minimum metal specs on it, was kinda thinking there would be more given the treatment and power. The fuild did have a small amount of silver tinge indicating some very fine metal particulate..but not much. Color was burnt red/rust orange (Redline fluids) and smelled like a new plastic garbage can....not awful..but it was strange.

Now to remove the center console and take out the shift lever.

Bought muh oil and trans oil as well. Need to remember to get a new throwout bearing as well.
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Old 06-22-2010, 09:34 AM   #57
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Might as well do the input shaft seal as well, if you have never done it.
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:40 PM   #58
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We'll see how it looks when everything comes apart.

Got the new clutch disc and TO bearing yesterday. Damn TO bearing was $50 from Mazda.

Correct me if I am wrong, but can't the transmission be filled via the shifter turret?
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:45 PM   #59
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I got a TOB through napa for $30, when i opened the box it was identical to the one from mazda...same NTN stamped on it.

Certain NB transes can fill through turret IIRC.
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:50 PM   #60
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You can fill the 6 speed through the turret, however at a slower rate since it has to travel down the turret area and into the casing. Leave the fill bolt off and fill transmission until fluid comes out of the fill hole, but you'll still have more fluid than is recommended, so let the fluid stop draining, then replace the bolt.
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