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Old 07-02-2010, 08:21 AM   #81
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Well...IT'S ALIVE!!!

Got to drive it home from my friend's shop. After doing the pre-start checks, I primed the engine and it fired right up. Everything was great except for 2 things-

1)I'm still smelling gear oil from the transmission. I put 2qts in via the shifter turret. Nothing is leaking.

2) The driver's side engine mount was replaced with a new OEM unti. The pass side is still a MazdaComp unit. I didn't think about it right away, but the MC mount sits the engine in a slightly different position. So the engine has like a 2* lean to it right now which is putting the turbo compressor about 1/8" away from the frame rail...and it bumps when the clutch shudders or hard bumps/turns. At least this is what I suspect is the deep "clunk" noise I hear when the clutch shudders or over hard hard bumps, or under heave lateral loads.

So other than those two issues, everything is nice. I replaced the rubber bushing ON the shift lever and combine that with the new TOB and clutch fork pivot bolt and shifting is wholyfuckingbeautifulawesomeperfect. Shifting is so smooth now that the spring action of coming out of gear almost put it's into the next gear without even pushing it. I have not been into boost yet though :( I'll give it until a couple of hundred miles before I do so, and I'll jsut be at WG pressure at first before returning to 12psi.
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Old 07-02-2010, 12:52 PM   #82
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On the 01+ head gaskets they changed which oil and coolant holes were open. Consensus is that with the stock 01 head gaskets the coolant reroute is not the best idea. There is a big long thread on miata.net about it, with pictures of all the differences. I will see if I can find it for you later.
Coolant holes different, oil holes same.
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:07 PM   #83
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If you don't know WHY the 1st engine blew, how do you stop it happening to the new one?
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:27 PM   #84
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I'd be Leary of the turbo hitting the frame rail. It might put undue stress on the manifold, giving you even more issues then before.
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Old 07-02-2010, 02:21 PM   #85
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If you don't know WHY the 1st engine blew, how do you stop it happening to the new one?
Autopsy will be under way soon. Give nthat the engine was boosted for as long as it was, I highly doubt there will be any problems anytime soon. But soon as I get the exact cause, I'll post it up.

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I'd be Leary of the turbo hitting the frame rail. It might put undue stress on the manifold, giving you even more issues then before.
Oh trust me I am. I know I need to get the other MC engine mount asap. So until I do, it's easy driving everywhere I go. Hell, I might even go pick one up after work today and see if I can get it in tonight or tomorrow.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:30 PM   #86
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.....and that engine lasted 3.5 years/70k miles lol. Shitty west coast gas + boosts = detonation = rod knock.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:57 PM   #87
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I've really never heard anything bad about our gas. I've heard bad things about California gas...but it's advertised as lower 91 octane vs. our 93. You might just be pushing your luck with 10:1 compression, 14 psi, and an aggressive spark map. It lasted only 32k less than your "Georgia" engine, and only 10k less boosted miles. Seems like it did just fine for your modifications.
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Old 01-30-2014, 01:03 AM   #88
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While kinda true, there are differences:

-I never had a problem with detonation/misfire on GA gas, but it was also very awesome 93.
-1st failure is still a mystery. Engine didnt look bad at all upon tear down.
-I'm now running Jeremy's map and boost was turned down to 10psi months ago.

In all honesty, I'd think 70k of 12+psi on a stock motor isn't all that bad. I do drive the car hard and the $$$ per mile of entertainment is actually pretty damn cheap lol
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Old 01-30-2014, 12:34 PM   #89
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Considering what, $2k for parts and rebuild? Maybe 3? That's 3-4 cents per mile. Very worth it

See my post on CR, my hoist is waiting to go home with Martin!
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Old 01-30-2014, 10:00 PM   #90
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Got a price on stock 4W pistons- $58/ea and $115 for a ring set. NLM got back to me with good prices on rods/bearings/ARP head studs and a pretty blue t-belt. Now I just need to find a good place for a gasket/seal kit...been reading MT for suggestions. I am contemplating having the pistons given a ceramic treatment.

Tentative parts list:
Manley rods
Stock 4W pistons
OE rings
ACL race bearing kit
ARP head studs
Gates Racing blue t-belt
OE t-belt pulleys
New WP
All new OE seals/gaskets

On the fence about:
New OP
Ceramic coating for pistons
SS 1-piece clutch line
Valve seals (included with Rosenthal gasket kit)

Right now for all of that I'm looking at $1362 for all of the parts.


Looking at the TSE and 949Racing dampers or a brand new OE unit (depending on price). Though I feel keeping stock pistons and not really going for over 300rwhp might negate the need for an upgraded one...though mine now has 70k boosted miles on it.

Also, I am not sure if I need stock size pistons (84mm?) or if I need oversize (84.5mm?) and same with the bearings..."std" or upsize one. If rebuilding, will I have to bore the cylinder walls or just re-hone? After pulling the plugs and looking down on the piston, I see no evidence of anything having been thrown around, so I'd tend to think there shouldn't be any damage to the cylinder walls. If the knock is at the rod/crank/bearing, will I need the larger bearings as the crank will need machining? Am I crazy for thinking about having the crank go through some weight-reducing machining?

Am I crazy for thinking about having the crank go through some weight-reducing machining?

Should I have my injectors sent out for cleaning/servicing?

What are the standard procedures a machine shop/engine builder will perform on a rebuild? What services are generally extra? Should I specify any particular work?

I don't really want to add cost with head-work/parts upgrades, but should I really do any particulars? Valve seals at the least?

Last edited by Doppelgänger; 01-30-2014 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:03 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
On the fence about:
New OP
Ceramic coating for pistons
SS 1-piece clutch line
Valve seals (included with Rosenthal gasket kit)
Cermic coating would probably be worth it for your OE pistons. SS line is definitely worth it. If you're referring to the full length master to slave one, I'd probably say it's nice but over kill. Something like TSE's though is very nice to have when working in that area. See below for head suggestions. And I've heard way too many horror stories about upgraded OPs. Pressure release valves seizing, improperly machined housings, etc. I wouldn't upgrade at your power level. Make sure you release valve spring is within tolerances and leave it alone. Others will most likely strong disagree with me.

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Looking at the TSE and 949Racing dampers or a brand new OE unit (depending on price). Though I feel keeping stock pistons and not really going for over 300rwhp might negate the need for an upgraded one...though mine now has 70k boosted miles on it.
You're probably ok with your stock pulley, although if you're going to buy a new one, just buy the 949 unit.

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Also, I am not sure if I need stock size pistons (84mm?) or if I need oversize (84.5mm?) and same with the bearings..."std" or upsize one. If rebuilding, will I have to bore the cylinder walls or just re-hone? After pulling the plugs and looking down on the piston, I see no evidence of anything having been thrown around, so I'd tend to think there shouldn't be any damage to the cylinder walls. If the knock is at the rod/crank/bearing, will I need the larger bearings as the crank will need machining?
You most likely didn't damage the cylinder walls. Even the exploded piston engine I recently built didn't damage the walls past what a hone took care of. Any honing done still uses stock diameter pistons. If you're buying new, bore it out for power, definitely. Are those 84.5 OEM pistons? A bore isn't super expensive and probably worth it.

The crank is most likely ok as well. It'll need to be checked for damage and oil clearances.

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Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
Am I crazy for thinking about having the crank go through some weight-reducing machining?
Yes. Don't waste your money and sacrifice reliability.

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Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
I don't really want to add cost with head-work/parts upgrades, but should I really do any particulars? Valve seals at the least?
Definitely the seals, and have them check valve seats as well, along with a surfacing and cleaning. This should run you about $150 IIRC. Wouldn't be a bad idea to check if there are any bent valves, and have them do a 3 angle valve job as well. Valves are super important in making strong compression numbers and are often ignored.
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:26 AM   #92
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Thanks Josh. The OP idea was just to get a new OE OP, not an upgraded unit. I remember some of those horror stories.

My questions concerning the piston size is cost. Will it be that much more to bore out for oversize? I can get either stock or over-sized for the same price. Should I go with over-size? Any idea on the new cc displacement? I'm reading conflicting information on the stock size being either 83.5mm or 84mm....
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Old 02-06-2014, 01:00 AM   #93
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Finally about to start ordering parts, fun. Looked up the "straight shot" clutch line...seems stupid not to do for $50.

I'll likely order std. bearings and the .025" ones as well...and just send back what I don't use. Does Mazda offer the mega-gasket/seal kit as a single part number like what Rosenthal sells? I have a feelin with my connections I could get that for ~$50 cheaper...if I knew every part number included in their "kit". GASKET SET,ENGINE (8DN5-10-271) - $293.30 - 8DN510271 .....can't tell if that's a "true" Mazda part number or one of theirs.

What else to do without spending another $1000....
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Old 02-06-2014, 01:25 AM   #94
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Its .0025, big difference
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Old 02-06-2014, 02:23 AM   #95
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Yeah....sorry!
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