N/A Engine build?
#22
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Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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$500 to drop 8lbs from the crank vs 10lbs from the flywheel - the only difference is you can't spend the $500 on the crank later. If I had chosen one additional place to put money in my shortblock, it would have been a knifed crank.
#24
The stock rods weigh 540 grams right? So would you guys recommend these Belfab 530g rods, or these Eagle 500 gram rods? Are there other brands I should consider?
Also, what would be a priority, knife edged crank or rods?
EDIT: I've been hearing from alot of people that the stock rods are good up to 250-300hp. So is there really a need for rods if the most I could get from NA would be around 200hp?
EDIT EDIT: $299 for MTuned rods that weigh 417g! I like group buys. This may be the route I take, unless I hear strong evidence against it.
Also, what would be a priority, knife edged crank or rods?
EDIT: I've been hearing from alot of people that the stock rods are good up to 250-300hp. So is there really a need for rods if the most I could get from NA would be around 200hp?
EDIT EDIT: $299 for MTuned rods that weigh 417g! I like group buys. This may be the route I take, unless I hear strong evidence against it.
Last edited by ApexScalpel; 08-07-2009 at 11:03 AM.
#26
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Location: Tampa, Florida
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FYI-I just read a thread on this forum where somebody is selling a used aluminum flywheel for $175! Look for it.
I wish I had seen that before I bought mine. FW made a nice difference in mine.
I wish I had seen that before I bought mine. FW made a nice difference in mine.
#29
I thought it was the 95 springs that were a little stiffer:
Solomiata : Engine : Mazda 4 cylinder guide
Solomiata : Engine : Mazda 4 cylinder guide
#31
Well the engine is in the process of getting rebuilt. Here is what the builder found:
What is left of the #1 rod bearing
And a nicely scuffed up crank for good measure
He also called me the other day and told me the oil pump was seized shut. So I guess the subsequent oil starvation fugged up the rod bearing, or the pieces of the rod bearing got sucked up into the oil pump and fugged it up. I'm not sure which came first.
Also the '99 head went to machine shop and when they started to clean it up the found a crack in on of the chambers :( But the good news is that Phil (levnubhin) took it back and is sourcing a new head for me
What is left of the #1 rod bearing
And a nicely scuffed up crank for good measure
He also called me the other day and told me the oil pump was seized shut. So I guess the subsequent oil starvation fugged up the rod bearing, or the pieces of the rod bearing got sucked up into the oil pump and fugged it up. I'm not sure which came first.
Also the '99 head went to machine shop and when they started to clean it up the found a crack in on of the chambers :( But the good news is that Phil (levnubhin) took it back and is sourcing a new head for me
#35
The stock rods weigh 540 grams right? So would you guys recommend these Belfab 530g rods, or these Eagle 500 gram rods? Are there other brands I should consider?
Also, what would be a priority, knife edged crank or rods?
EDIT: I've been hearing from alot of people that the stock rods are good up to 250-300hp. So is there really a need for rods if the most I could get from NA would be around 200hp?
EDIT EDIT: $299 for MTuned rods that weigh 417g! I like group buys. This may be the route I take, unless I hear strong evidence against it.
Also, what would be a priority, knife edged crank or rods?
EDIT: I've been hearing from alot of people that the stock rods are good up to 250-300hp. So is there really a need for rods if the most I could get from NA would be around 200hp?
EDIT EDIT: $299 for MTuned rods that weigh 417g! I like group buys. This may be the route I take, unless I hear strong evidence against it.
I would get rods before knife edging 1000000/1000000. I would also get a lightened flywheel before ever lightening a crank. I would spend 1200 getting the 949 clutch/flywheel before I spent 600 knife edging the crank. There is no need to knife edge the crank in a motor you don't plan on rebuilding yearly. Likely you plan to DD this car some, and not make it a track only car. So keep all the meat on the crank. With a setup like the 949 clutch you can rev match all day long with ease. I haven't driven one but I bet it revs to the moon just with the blip of the throttle.
#36
The Belfab we carry and M-Tuned are the same weight without bolts. Same quality. They are cousins actually, nearly identical. The M-tuned use 7/16" ARP, the Belfab 3/8" ARP rod bolts.
The weight I quote is complete. The weight often quoted for the M-Tuned is without bolts or bushings.
The weight I quote is complete. The weight often quoted for the M-Tuned is without bolts or bushings.
__________________
#37
The mtuned rods use the same bolts. The 7/16" measurement quoted is of the bolt head, not the shaft.
I know marc will come in here and say differently, but I have owned both the Belfabs and the mtuned rods. Held them both in my hands. They are IDENTICAL. They even have the same letters inscribed in the side in the exact same font. This is not a bad thing though in my mind, they are both great rods. The Mtuned are even cheaper now considering belfab reaised their price over a year ago and mtuned now come with arp 2k bolts. SO all that said, mtuned is still win.
I know marc will come in here and say differently, but I have owned both the Belfabs and the mtuned rods. Held them both in my hands. They are IDENTICAL. They even have the same letters inscribed in the side in the exact same font. This is not a bad thing though in my mind, they are both great rods. The Mtuned are even cheaper now considering belfab reaised their price over a year ago and mtuned now come with arp 2k bolts. SO all that said, mtuned is still win.
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