Need help...
07-01-2011, 02:17 PM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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Need help...
hi, i have a '91 miata with starting issues...
now its 130,*** miles. it has new plugs, wires, starter, battery(tested).
the car would start up just fine until i left for a 5day trip. the car started but after a 15~20 min drive, it stalled. the car would crank but wouldn't start back up. tried jump starting, push starting, but no luck. got it towed back home and Ive checked the battery which was tested and has power...
jump wired the diagnosis connector F/P and GND to check the fuel pump and i hear operating sound coming from it. no sign of wear and carbon build up on the spark plugs... all the fuses or okay too...
just cant figure out whats causing my car not to turn over...
help is very much appreciated!!!
thank you!
now its 130,*** miles. it has new plugs, wires, starter, battery(tested).
the car would start up just fine until i left for a 5day trip. the car started but after a 15~20 min drive, it stalled. the car would crank but wouldn't start back up. tried jump starting, push starting, but no luck. got it towed back home and Ive checked the battery which was tested and has power...
jump wired the diagnosis connector F/P and GND to check the fuel pump and i hear operating sound coming from it. no sign of wear and carbon build up on the spark plugs... all the fuses or okay too...
just cant figure out whats causing my car not to turn over...
help is very much appreciated!!!
thank you!
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07-02-2011, 08:08 PM
#8
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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okay, i checked for spark but didn't see any spark...( not sure if i did it right... took out the plug and wire from the first cylinder and had someone crank it?)
anyway... still the car cranks but wont turn over... whats the best way to check the CAS, ignition coil? get one multimeter? thanks!
anyway... still the car cranks but wont turn over... whats the best way to check the CAS, ignition coil? get one multimeter? thanks!
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07-02-2011, 09:25 PM
#9
CAS testing (from interwebz/fsm) with a volt meter:
Turn the key to on (don't start the car), you should see the following.
White/Red wire: 12V
Black/Lt. Green wire: ground/0V
Turning engine via wrench read the voltmeter, the White wire and the Yellow/Blue wire should both fluctuate from 0 to 5 volts. Four pulses per rev for the white wire and 2 pulses per rev for the blue/yellow. Turn the crankshaft two revolutions for one CAS revolution.
Connector voltages:
White/Red= 12V
White= 5V
Yellow/Blue= 5V
Black/Lt Green= 0V (ground)
Turn the key to on (don't start the car), you should see the following.
White/Red wire: 12V
Black/Lt. Green wire: ground/0V
Turning engine via wrench read the voltmeter, the White wire and the Yellow/Blue wire should both fluctuate from 0 to 5 volts. Four pulses per rev for the white wire and 2 pulses per rev for the blue/yellow. Turn the crankshaft two revolutions for one CAS revolution.
Connector voltages:
White/Red= 12V
White= 5V
Yellow/Blue= 5V
Black/Lt Green= 0V (ground)
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07-08-2011, 04:52 PM
#13
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hi. sorry for the late update... (i live in Hawaii)
Anyway...
checked battery again=it has 12.51V.
checked resistance on the secondary coil winding=it has resistance between 11.2-15.2kΩ
jump wired the diagnoses mode= nothing flashes...
checked resistance on spark plug= i think it has the right resistance...
BUT STILL NO SPARK...
could it be that the timing belt jumped? or the CAS?
thanks
Anyway...
checked battery again=it has 12.51V.
checked resistance on the secondary coil winding=it has resistance between 11.2-15.2kΩ
jump wired the diagnoses mode= nothing flashes...
checked resistance on spark plug= i think it has the right resistance...
BUT STILL NO SPARK...
could it be that the timing belt jumped? or the CAS?
thanks
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07-08-2011, 09:01 PM
#14
CAS testing (from interwebz/fsm) with a volt meter:
Turn the key to on (don't start the car), you should see the following.
White/Red wire: 12V
Black/Lt. Green wire: ground/0V
Turning engine via wrench read the voltmeter, the White wire and the Yellow/Blue wire should both fluctuate from 0 to 5 volts. Four pulses per rev for the white wire and 2 pulses per rev for the blue/yellow. Turn the crankshaft two revolutions for one CAS revolution.
Connector voltages:
White/Red= 12V
White= 5V
Yellow/Blue= 5V
Black/Lt Green= 0V (ground)
Turn the key to on (don't start the car), you should see the following.
White/Red wire: 12V
Black/Lt. Green wire: ground/0V
Turning engine via wrench read the voltmeter, the White wire and the Yellow/Blue wire should both fluctuate from 0 to 5 volts. Four pulses per rev for the white wire and 2 pulses per rev for the blue/yellow. Turn the crankshaft two revolutions for one CAS revolution.
Connector voltages:
White/Red= 12V
White= 5V
Yellow/Blue= 5V
Black/Lt Green= 0V (ground)
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07-08-2011, 09:25 PM
#16
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Udude have you read the post just before your last one. There should be 19 valleys on th belt betwnne the two maks on each cam pully. Even if th ebelt is off a tooth it would still run. Why dont you take the advice that has been given and then come back and tell us what is going on.
Good luck,
Jared
P.S. You still havent updated your location.
Good luck,
Jared
P.S. You still havent updated your location.
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