Three holes for puller.

 

I only have like two "twists" of penetration on the threads cut into the damper, should I be worried and or cut them deeper?

 

My bad. Three holes are the crank holder tool to tighten or loosen the crank bolt. Use a common three or four claw pulley removal tool to pull the damper off the crank snout.

SuperMiata damper holder tool


Harbor Freight puller #69104

 

Gotcha, thanks.

 

Do I still have to torque to 150lb feet or whatever?

 

crank bolt is still OEM torque

 

Am I the only one that either holds the flywheel with a bolt and prybar or leaves the car in gear, brakes on, and torques the crank bolt? Or am I doing something horribly wrong and causing damaging stress to things.

 

I typically torque in the car using the E-brake and in-gear, but using the install tool will be much easier if the engine is on the stand.

 

You're not the only one who uses the rope trick, if by rope trick you mean pulling the spark plug and filling the combustion chamber with rope for a mechanical stop while torquing.

That's also how I did my valve guide seals on my Camaro. Much easier than buying an air compressor and the proper fittings.

 

Works great for doing valve seals, Never had to use it to tighten the crank bolt because the "put it in gear/pull the e-brake" method works pretty well.

 

You can't be serious, hahahaha. 150lb/ft of torque on a stock rod, yeah...okay.

I like to let the wrench on the crank-bolt hit the ground, then get a long extension in the spark-plug hole, then hammer the piston down with a sledge and turn the engine backwards to torque the bolt. Ya know, there is more than one day to skewer a dog.

 

If it breaks then he can get forged rods.

 

I never said I did it. I was clarifying EO2K's definition of "rope trick." Besides. I have a flywheel holder. His name is Jason. It does work great for keeping the valves from falling out for valve guide seals without a head pull.

I'm no expert, but aren't people turning 200+ ft/lb on stock internals at the wheels? Factor 20% drivetrain loss and that's 250 at the crank on the same axis as tightening the crank bolt.

Figuring roughly 9.5:1 compression creates around 200 PSI (I think it's closer to 250 ideally, but my junkyard motor does 195 on the tester.) in the combustion chamber, and if a completely flat top 83mm piston has 8.35 in^2 of surface area, that's 1670 lb's of force on the face of the piston as it approaches TDC, correct? I'd imagine that pushed through the cross section of the connecting rod, the number goes through the roof.

I don't have the required math background to figure the upward force on the piston transmitted through the offset crank throw from the centerline of the crank having torque applied at 150#. Does anyone else?

 

200+ average torque, yes. Which means that the peak load on the con-rod would be greater in actual operation than that encountered from applying a stead-state 200 ft/lbs to the crank bolt and using the piston as a stopper.

Nobody is going to bend a rod from using the "rope trick".

 

Thank FSM, the previous lack of responses made me doubt my tenuous-at-best understanding of physics as it was.

 

Impact never failed me. 150lbs is DDHHH...DHHHHH DHH yea that it. 150

 

Damper is in with the 36-1 trigger wheel. Adaptronic reads it perfectly

I was kind a surprised how easy it was to get it in. I don’t know why 949 sell that crank holder tool

Another thing that amazes me is how quick car starts now. It probably has more to do with Adaptronic than trigger wheel resolution..

 

Muoto looks good! i opted out for the crank trigger wheel on my b6 due to it doesnt have provisions for a crank trigger. Can anyone tell me how i can mount a crank trigger to my b6t? can i use oem parts? (like a set off a 99?) what would i need?

 

Our trigger wheel is the only one that will fit our damper.

 

right, but im using a fwd b6t, the b6t originally used a dizzy, so what parts would i need so my AEM EMS can utilize a crank position? is there a bracket? sensor from what year?