Not / Low charging, alternator very hot, please help...
#1
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Not / Low charging, alternator very hot, please help...
Happened during a very slow drive home - for about 10-15 miles..
Charge light comes on and flashes, battery voltage reads 11.6 to 11.3...
I rev it just a bit, intermittently displays 12.1 to 12.4 volts.
Gets really lean, but runs.
The only precursor I can think of would be that it started and immediately died a couple times in the past two days. And, I had to turn it off once immediately after starting about three days ago, because it was not charging, and engine acted very funny. Cycled the key and everything was normal at the time.
Car had no symptoms before this, since the rebuild. Ran, acted and charged just normal.
I had revved the car all the way to redline for the first time today. Just 500 miles or so on the clock so far.
MSII enhanced, Reverant spec.
I cleaned and made sure all grounds are tight, and even replaced the main engine to chassis ground strap with a silver coated copper braided monster cable which is about 1/2" thick.
I made it home and checked the fuses and the belt. All are OK.
The alternator is way too hot, but no bunt smell.
The gauge hunts between 11,4 to 12,1 Volts when I start the car now.
Any ideas, input is welcome.
Charge light comes on and flashes, battery voltage reads 11.6 to 11.3...
I rev it just a bit, intermittently displays 12.1 to 12.4 volts.
Gets really lean, but runs.
The only precursor I can think of would be that it started and immediately died a couple times in the past two days. And, I had to turn it off once immediately after starting about three days ago, because it was not charging, and engine acted very funny. Cycled the key and everything was normal at the time.
Car had no symptoms before this, since the rebuild. Ran, acted and charged just normal.
I had revved the car all the way to redline for the first time today. Just 500 miles or so on the clock so far.
MSII enhanced, Reverant spec.
I cleaned and made sure all grounds are tight, and even replaced the main engine to chassis ground strap with a silver coated copper braided monster cable which is about 1/2" thick.
I made it home and checked the fuses and the belt. All are OK.
The alternator is way too hot, but no bunt smell.
The gauge hunts between 11,4 to 12,1 Volts when I start the car now.
Any ideas, input is welcome.
#3
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Sorry, but, no.
I do not have another alternator.
Once the car cooled off a bit, it started charging somewhat. Stiil low, but at least it's not discharging.
I am attaching a quick log of what's happening. Please note that the car runs decidedly lean, as well..
I do not have another alternator.
Once the car cooled off a bit, it started charging somewhat. Stiil low, but at least it's not discharging.
I am attaching a quick log of what's happening. Please note that the car runs decidedly lean, as well..
#6
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MSII controls the alternator.
And, the gauge read 14.1 - 14.2 V at idle when I started the car today.
I'll be leaving for a 2k mile road trip on Friday this week. I just can't take my chances with charging.
And, the gauge read 14.1 - 14.2 V at idle when I started the car today.
I'll be leaving for a 2k mile road trip on Friday this week. I just can't take my chances with charging.
#9
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Update:
All seemed fine today when I started the car to check it over.
I left for a 20 mile drive. Voltage gauge steady(ish) at 14.2-14.4. Then it goes to 14.5 for the first time ever.
That was fine by me.
I get off the freeway, and into the city. Driving at moderate speeds on an arterial, I notice the voltage climbing. All the way to 18 volts. I turned every electrical thing on for drain, and drove at the lowest RPM possible before I could find a place to shut it off.
Then, it was just fine again.
On the way home, voltage stayed fairly steady at 14.3, but a) the headlights kept flickering, and, b) my water injection warning light kept blinking code 4 and 5.
I puled over, cycled the key, and all was fine again.
This is getting very annoying.
The alternator comes out first thing tomorrow.
All seemed fine today when I started the car to check it over.
I left for a 20 mile drive. Voltage gauge steady(ish) at 14.2-14.4. Then it goes to 14.5 for the first time ever.
That was fine by me.
I get off the freeway, and into the city. Driving at moderate speeds on an arterial, I notice the voltage climbing. All the way to 18 volts. I turned every electrical thing on for drain, and drove at the lowest RPM possible before I could find a place to shut it off.
Then, it was just fine again.
On the way home, voltage stayed fairly steady at 14.3, but a) the headlights kept flickering, and, b) my water injection warning light kept blinking code 4 and 5.
I puled over, cycled the key, and all was fine again.
This is getting very annoying.
The alternator comes out first thing tomorrow.
#11
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Problem solved..
I took the alternator apart today and found one of the diodes dead. Kaput.
Replaced the regulator and the diode pack, reinstalled it, and it works.
Car charges at 14.4 Volts, with very occasional deviations of 0.1 volts.
Taking it apart saved me a bundle.
I took the alternator apart today and found one of the diodes dead. Kaput.
Replaced the regulator and the diode pack, reinstalled it, and it works.
Car charges at 14.4 Volts, with very occasional deviations of 0.1 volts.
Taking it apart saved me a bundle.
#14
Wonder if the non Mazda regulating circuits (I have a JC design soldered by me, sans charging light) are harder on diodes?
I have two friends that have fried their diodes not long after switching to other ECUs than OEM (different ECUs, and not Hydra).
#19
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Lower than 13V while running = slow blinking
Higher than 13V while running = fast blinking
Between 10V and 13V with the engine off = steady on
Lower than 10V with the engine off = slow blinking
Higher than 13V while running = fast blinking
Between 10V and 13V with the engine off = steady on
Lower than 10V with the engine off = slow blinking
#20
Similar issues
I have a Reverant MS2e.
The car has been sat a while and the battery voltage has dropped a bit to like 11.5v.
The car does start though.
Once started the battery light stays on and the dash lights are very bright, alternator output voltage is like 18v !
I don't think MS is controlling the alternator field correctly.
What do other people who use this MS2e alternator field control have their alternator settings set to ?
Mine are the following:
Alternator control settings:
Control Mode: Simple
Target Voltage: 14.4v
Min RPM for alternator control: 400
Is there anything wrong with these settings ?
Lloyd
The car has been sat a while and the battery voltage has dropped a bit to like 11.5v.
The car does start though.
Once started the battery light stays on and the dash lights are very bright, alternator output voltage is like 18v !
I don't think MS is controlling the alternator field correctly.
What do other people who use this MS2e alternator field control have their alternator settings set to ?
Mine are the following:
Alternator control settings:
Control Mode: Simple
Target Voltage: 14.4v
Min RPM for alternator control: 400
Is there anything wrong with these settings ?
Lloyd