bbundy

I just stuck the pump in as it arrived. Never had issues with a pressure relief valve befor.

Bob

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

I was under the impression that improved crankcase evacuation was the end-all solution to oil control at the rings. I could have swore you spent a good deal of time on this? It doesn't matter how much oil your squirters are squirting, if the pressure in the combustion chamber is greater than the pressure in the crankcase (which it should be at least 75% of the time), it makes it very difficult for oil to get into the combustion chamber.

I'm no fluids engineer though, so my hypotheses (plural for hypothesis?) are subject to being wrong.

Alta_Racer

iTrader: (4)

I was not aware of the higher volume of the VVT pump, but that does make sense now that I hear it. How much flow boost is there? With oil squirters blocked off, and the extra flow, perhaps bearing clearance is a bit tight, maybe the relief valve cannot dump enough volume, and the pressure rises.

A thought comes to mind for me, how hard is it for you to remove everything between the block and the filter, run it like that to see if there is a restriction there. That should only make a difference if you are pulling pressure reading at the adapter, as I believe the boss in the block comes after the filter.

I would also consider checking pressure at one of the head oil plugs to see if it is high/low there.

Hydro or solid lifter in this engine?

My guess would have to be there is a problem with the relief valve tho.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

The crankcase venting issue is not necessarily related to oil getting past the rings. You can have a finely vented crankcase and your rings can not seal well.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

Hey bbundy, fae just called your engine a "piece of ****"!!!

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

LOL

I meant "one can have a well vented crankcase and the rings still might not seal well".

bbundy

There are allot more issues with oil control at the rings than crank case evacuation.

1) forged pistons with more clearance than stock

2) Extremely short height pistons with the stroker so they can rock in the bore more.

3) The fact that all aftermarket pistons I have seen have gas vents in the oil control groove vented to the underside of the piston where pressurized oil sparay from the oil squirters is and Mazda factory pistons do not.

I will say I’m not leaving an oil smoke trail anymore when I romp on it.

Bob

bbundy

It seems to have cured itself. now it idles at ~30-32 and ~80- 90 under load. I think the relief valve was sticking.

Somthing has let go in the driveline. sounds like metalic popcorn in the transmission. but I just put in a junk yard 3.636 ring and pinion with an OS-giken so I will have to figure it out tonight what is going on.

Bob

bbundy

I have an Accusump with a gage on it mounted under the car back by the fuel filter It is connected into a sandwich plate under the oil filter. It reads pretty much the same pressure as the stock pressure gage. Both are after the filter.

It is a ported 99 head with oversize valves. Stock solid lifters and cams. I think the flow increase with the VVT pump is pretty small actually. I doubt it is as much as a Boundary engenering pump.

Pretty cool to see oil pressure come up before I hit the starter button.

Bob

Preluding

iTrader: (10)

Good to know it cured itself!

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Bob before your accusump did you ever hear a clatter when you started up?

bbundy

Not really. And unsprung 4 puck clutch disk clatters a little as its kiking off though.

Bob

wildo

iTrader: (1)

Good news on the oil pressure situation. I had a temperature-related sticky relief valve once. Oil pressure was sky-high until oil came up to temp, and at which point, pressures would run as normal. The slight change in temperature was just enough to expand/contract the housing. Eventually though, the piston got stuck. Hopefully that won't be the case for you.

Good luck with the drivetrain, and let us know how it goes with the crankcase evacuation kit and light weight alternator in your other posts!

bbundy

Interesting my rebuild job on the diff seems fine I've done like 5 of them and haven’t had a problem before but I was worried. Can’t really identify issues with the transmission. There is about 10 degrees of slop in one of the inner CV joints, don't think that is right.

Anybody else blow up CV joints? It’s got like a driveline vibration and does a lot of clicking and popping. even going straight loaded or unloaded. Lightly loaded at 3500 rpm it vibrates the whole car.

Bob

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

sounds like a cv probly the tranny would make alot more gruesome sounds pretty quickly.

curly

iTrader: (25)

How warm is warm? Mine does this exact thing when it's cold, are you sure you didn't just let it warm up more when you thought it cured itself? Much above idle when mine's cold and it's pegging the pressure gauge.

bbundy

I drove it for a loop around the Island about 15 miles and pulled it in the garage and it still had 80 psi idling.

Bob

wildo

iTrader: (1)

Yes. That is exactly what my blown CV sounded & acted like. Not common, but it happened on my stock engine 125-130hp track car.

bbundy

Weird it didn’t have these severe syptoms before I took it apart and installed the OS-Giken and the rebuilt engine. I wonder if I swapped sides with the axles and that is what pissed it off when I put it back together.

I just took the CV apart, huge divots in the inner and outer races where the ***** come in contact, lots of slop in one spot. Grease looks fine, looks more like serious overloading than slow wear really. I wonder if this is going to be a weak link for a car making over 300 ft-lbs of torque.

God it feels cool to romp on it when you’re going 60 mph and have the rear tires just start spinning though. My junk old Toyo T1-S tires are entertaining for this.

Bob