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Are you running an efr? How big is your drain line?
No on the EFR. We actually have 2 cars with similar issues.
Both B6 with Chinachargers.
Car A
Motor rebuilt 3000 miles ago, 180ish compression
T3 turbo with .48 a/r hotside
Oil feed restrictor (not sure on size, looks about a 1/16th)
5/8 ID hose for the drain
3/8 hose from PCV to catch can
3/8 hose with check valve from intake to catch can
Air filter/breather on the exhaust side VC port
Around 17psi of boost
Car B
Motor rebuilt a few hundred miles ago, compression in the 180s as well.
GT2871 Churbo
No restrictor
5/8 ID hose for the drain
3/8 hose from PCV to catch can, vented
Air filter/breather on the exhaust side VC port
Around 18-19psi of boost
So more or less similar setups, but both cars have an issue with smoking after boost, due to excessive crankcase pressure is my theory. I think enlarging the holes on the VC is the way to solve this, but I am not sure. Input?
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
oil
Oil seal, piston ring seal on the shaft, whatever you want to call it.
Here's my slightly different approach to the same thing.
I drilled out the existing baffle hole to 3/8" and added a second.
I plugged the passenger side and used the factory driver's side nipple to a simple vented catch can. I've never had to drain the catch can. I honestly think the the steel wool I used is the key. It's the coarse ribbon type and I only had it in part of the first chamber to give the oil mist something to collect on
I thought about those scrub things but i decided against it incase the oil would start to break it down. I figure ill stuff that in the oil catch can instead
There's reports of the actual steel wool breaking up and going through the engine, it's more like hair. The stuff I used is the 1/8" wide ribbon, it's not breaking up.
This was preemptive since I was adding the turbo. This is also a "race car" in that I didn't care if I needed to change the oil often as my street driving consisted of tuning and the odd trip to work.
In my application the flow is simply around the rings and out the valve cover. I was not introducing oily air to the intake tract. The driver's side baffle was two chambers so I just went with that side and planned to expand if I saw signs of crankcase pressure. So far I've seen no evidence of a problem other than the oil smells of fuel in 3k miles. Normally my track days are less than a 1000 miles apart so it's a non issue.
For a street car I would add the pcv back in the factory config but switch to a PCV that sealed under boost. The flow on the driver's side would be into the valve cover under cruise and out under boost.
I cringe every time I see real steel wool being used. Copper is easy to find and a lot easier for your engine to eat, if it did.
Passenger side is the side of the valve cover that oil can pool and have a hard time draining. Using it often results excessive oil consumption/caught in catch can.
I cringe every time I see real steel wool being used. Copper is easy to find and a lot easier for your engine to eat, if it did.
Passenger side is the side of the valve cover that oil can pool and have a hard time draining. Using it often results excessive oil consumption/caught in catch can.
So would i be better off venting that side and putting catch can on the driver side?
Google for information on PCV systems and you will see that the valve prevents and/or limits flow in either direction depending on conditions. Check valve does not do that.
I really thought a PCV valve was just a check valve. I didn't consider the limiting flow factors, i guess i can just run the pcv inline instead of the check valve