Please not another crankcase ventilation thread.
11-10-2015, 04:54 AM
#164
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Remember. I'm the guy that bought a twin disc for a stock 1.6.
I'm doing it for science. I'm going to put a map sensor on the crankcase and run with the slash cut and without. Then I can log data and report. I plan on Y-ing the slashcut into the intake side so that there are 2 sources of vacuum. One under boost one under vacuum.
I'm doing it for science. I'm going to put a map sensor on the crankcase and run with the slash cut and without. Then I can log data and report. I plan on Y-ing the slashcut into the intake side so that there are 2 sources of vacuum. One under boost one under vacuum.
buy alum oil cap that fits
drill a ******* hole
jb weld in some stupid bung thing from plumbing section of home depot
--jb is appropriate cus ur not honda racing so just ******* do it
put fat vac line on it
run line to wiper
put mechanical vac/boost gauge on line
look at the damn thing. look
I started doing slashcut back when i was on gt3071 and only runnign 25psi. i "logged" 2-3psi at full boost. this was with a -12 line
I then added a second line and put on the only tuerbo that is worth being on a miata the borgwarner s366 and i think i "logged the same psi at the gauge at uh 35psi or something
i have lack of impressed feelings. the whole oil buildup in hoses or whatever happened to me too occasionally and it looks stupid. i am modifying to just dump at the rear bumper no slashcut. **** catch cans
again, in my build thread i was once venting both sides of the valve cover to a redbull can shoved into a crew sock. i think that was actually a pretty good solution
btw ur guy never called me i need his love
Allow me to tell you what to believe:
Lots of people have lots of different opinions with regard to crankcase ventilation. Some are formed on the basis of real-world experience on the racetrack, some on the basis of real-world experiencing building and maintaining street engines, some on the basis of a sound understanding of thermodynamics and fluid-dynamics, some on anecdotal knowledge of "what words" from old-timers, and some on pure idiocy.
Some of these methods work well, some don't, and some are likely to cause harm. Not all of the "don't work / cause harm" methods are restricted to the "pure idiocy" group.
What's perfectly adequate for a street-driven car may be inadequate on the track. What works well on the track will almost certainly cause you to fail a visual inspection in CA.
There is no single, unified answer for what's best in any specific application, however all of the answers that work have a few things in common. They provide a source of filtered air into the engine, and they actively draw contaminated air out of the engine, preferably through the PCV outlet on the valve cover. What happens to the air after that doesn't really matter so long as you're not accidentally pressurizing it, using it to contaminate the inside of your intercooler or MAF sensor, etc.
Lots of people have lots of different opinions with regard to crankcase ventilation. Some are formed on the basis of real-world experience on the racetrack, some on the basis of real-world experiencing building and maintaining street engines, some on the basis of a sound understanding of thermodynamics and fluid-dynamics, some on anecdotal knowledge of "what words" from old-timers, and some on pure idiocy.
Some of these methods work well, some don't, and some are likely to cause harm. Not all of the "don't work / cause harm" methods are restricted to the "pure idiocy" group.
What's perfectly adequate for a street-driven car may be inadequate on the track. What works well on the track will almost certainly cause you to fail a visual inspection in CA.
There is no single, unified answer for what's best in any specific application, however all of the answers that work have a few things in common. They provide a source of filtered air into the engine, and they actively draw contaminated air out of the engine, preferably through the PCV outlet on the valve cover. What happens to the air after that doesn't really matter so long as you're not accidentally pressurizing it, using it to contaminate the inside of your intercooler or MAF sensor, etc.
too ******* small ask mommy to buy it for your Quinceañera
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11-10-2015, 09:52 AM
#165
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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If you were seeing pressure in the crankcase you didn't open your bafgles up enough. I know you don't hang out around here anymore but there is a thread where he opens up the baffling by drilling out some holes no more pressure. Under boost.
**** the s366. Shitty bigass expensive turbo.
**** the s366. Shitty bigass expensive turbo.
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07-22-2017, 10:10 AM
#173
Resurrection!
Back to this old argument. Flipping through this and most other vent block threads, I have not seen or heard mention of this: two holes-one block. One vent for fresh air in, the other for vacuum. If just a small (TINY brass type) filter was used for the clean air source, it would provide the clean air to clear the block, without ruining all the good vacuum benefits.
Is there even a place on the opposite side of the block to add another vent?
Si or no?
Back to this old argument. Flipping through this and most other vent block threads, I have not seen or heard mention of this: two holes-one block. One vent for fresh air in, the other for vacuum. If just a small (TINY brass type) filter was used for the clean air source, it would provide the clean air to clear the block, without ruining all the good vacuum benefits.
Is there even a place on the opposite side of the block to add another vent?
Si or no?
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07-24-2017, 08:45 PM
#176
The only reason I was thinking of using the valve cover driver side, was to avoid overpowering the block vent and suckling oil. Valve cover passenger side only feeds air to the system. Preferably with a slightly restrictive filter for the clean air. I want to keep a slight vacuum if I can. The venturi in my intake makes a massive amount of vacuum, so I think this will work well.
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07-25-2017, 10:01 AM
#180
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I don't think it will work well the way it is drawn. You will end up with vapor coming out of the "fresh air in hole" and you will also end up with light oil vapor entering the turbo and increasing the chances of detonation. Oil vapor lowers the octane of the air/fuel mixture.
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