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Old 11-09-2013, 08:13 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by yossi126 View Post
Thank you, sir. My garbage reroute works just fine. This is the valve in use -.
I meant no disrespect. You purchased poorly designed parts that others have had issues with. I'm impressed with your solution to the problem, but with all due respect, it's a problem that shouldn't exist. If your reroute worked as well as everyone else's, you wouldn't need a valve in that location.
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Old 11-10-2013, 02:20 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie View Post
I think a better solution would be to use a real coolant reroute.

so...Maybe I can bring a bit more value to this thread....

Are coolant temps even important? I was under the impression that oil temp is the important one (not that you didn't say that, I am just looking for clarification).

So in that case, does it matter if your oil temps are around 190*F but coolant is say 120*F?
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:58 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Lower coolant temps, as measured empirically. Any more questions?
I really don't see how that is possible. If your engine puts 10 KW into your coolant, then your radiator must take 10KW out of your coolant. If the choke point is your radiator, it doesn't matter if you increase flow, normalize the distribution of temperatures, or change the direction of flow. Your radiator is only capable of removing 9.5KW and you are putting in 10, so you are going to over heat.

There are some intricacies on flow rate and thermal transfer in turbulent environments such as the radiator. I don't think changing the flow path like this is going to make enough impact though. Technically increased speed meaning increased vortexes in the radiator fluid caused by high speed flow should increase the conductive heat transfer rate between the fluid the and the solid in the radiator.

That is the only possible reason I could see the entire system becoming more efficient with a reroute.

What do I care though? Its not my fight to have. I just don't have to do it to my car. Carry on sirs.
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Old 11-10-2013, 01:41 PM   #44
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You're trying to hard to think about this like a theorist. Everyone else seems to be experimentalists. A reroute works. It lowers temps overall, better cools the number 4 cylinder and keeps the motor happier. Why this happens is up for debate. The heat load is the same, but maybe the flow rate is higher through a reroute and thus increases total rejection. Maybe the reroute evens out the temperatures and actually lowers total heat load. At least, those 2 are my best guess. Who knows why it actually works, it just does and proving exactly why is going to be very difficult.
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Old 11-10-2013, 04:42 PM   #45
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Well, I couldn't be happier now that my begi race reroute is defeated. I took the advice above and moved the T to the lower hose.

It used to take 20 minutes to warm up to the point where the cooling fan would open. When it was under 50 degrees, I don't think it would ever really warm up. I guess that el-cheapo Godspeed radiator I bought about five years ago from a group buy on this forum works a little TOO good.

No fun never getting out of warm-up enrichment. Lol.

Anyway, rerouted my reroute and now she warms up in 7 minutes. About 80* out today. Went for some hard runs and let it sit. No overheating.
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:05 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
Setup the heater return like factory, into the water pump or into the lower rad hose.

Use an oil t-stat on the heater *outlet* to block flow when hot; this will stop the heater bypassing the radiator when the coolant is hot. At the same time, if you turn on the heater to help cool the engine, it will open and coolant will through the heater.
Could you explain this more? Because it sounds like it would be pretty great to have a valve with a thermostat that closed when it got hot but you were able to open with a cable when you turned the heat on it one small package.
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