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Old 02-18-2014, 03:52 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
...
The square top flows well up to about 175whp N/A or well past that F/I. Eventually it runs out of CFM even though the lengths and diameters are almost perfect. Better internal shaping and flow than the USDM VICS (NB1) and VTCS (NB2) but still along way from awesome.
...
Have you observed any gains with the square top and a bigger TB ? It is pretty much 2.5" from inside the flange to the runners. A 65mm TB + 2.5" piping must be good for something @ 9K.
Edelbrock Mustang TB hackjob:
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:56 PM   #182
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And you should probably be sending it to murahahaha instead if you want a sexy as **** looking $1500 off the shelf header that probably doesnt make any more power than a racing beat.
Emillo your pretty close I picked up a used Maxim with the flex pipe cut off for the price of an obx header last year. I have to try and get it modified to either fit like a stock header or just make a custom exhaust setup. Either way I'll end up spending abut the same amount of money. It'll just take alot more time to use the Maxim.

If you compare a Murha and a Maxim the primaries and secondaies are the same dimeter the collector is larger 60mm and the routing of the pipes are nearly the same its just got the 50mm venturi and split construction that really distinguish it from the Maxim.

My class doesn't allow as much modification as what you are doing with your engines I have to have a stock long block or at least one built within the guidelines of the factory manual and a stock intake and throttle body and this is why I kinda of think that the Maxim might be more optimum for my application. If I was running an elevated redline and making more power I wouldn't hesitate to get the RB. I guess I was just looking to see if anyone else might agree that having higher exhaust velocity due to a smaller collector and catback would be more optimum for my more limited level of prep.

Last edited by speedingbolt; 02-18-2014 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:37 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
85.5s need a 5mm stroker crank to break the 2050cc barrier. Maruha's crank is an 89mm crank, which measures out to ~2044cc. Kind of silly and a little disingenuous on their part to call it a 2.1L, IMO.
You and I know that.

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Originally Posted by speedingbolt View Post
If I was running an elevated redline and making more power I wouldn't hesitate to get the RB. I guess I was just looking to see if anyone else might agree that having higher exhaust velocity due to a smaller collector and catback would be more optimum for my more limited level of prep.
We tested on a bone stock longblock, not a high RPM race engine. You have already convinced yourself the MW will be "better" based on conjecture. Run it


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Originally Posted by arildh View Post
Have you observed any gains with the square top and a bigger TB ?
I assume your question is "have you observed any gains with the square top after adding a bigger TB ?

Nope. Above about 170whp we could just barely see a repeatable 2whp at very high rpm. That's an annoying A/B/A test. Do the math on flow. Stock TB flows enough for about 250whp N/A. F/I is a different matter and we have done no testing with TB's there at all. The math indicates there will start to be gains above 250whp F/I with a bigger TB. So test it and report back if you would please
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Old 02-19-2014, 08:43 PM   #184
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With the 2mm O/S exhaust valves and valve lift we're running, it'll be way interference.
What about a VVT engine with stock cams, +1mm valves all around and a thin head gasket, is that an interference engine too?
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Old 02-19-2014, 10:35 PM   #185
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What about a VVT engine with stock cams, +1mm valves all around and a thianytime you some fresh in or mess with the cam dimensions.n head gasket, is that an interference engine too?
Probably not but that is the sort of question you ask your engine builder not someone on a forum. Anytime you raise the compression or change camshaft dimensions you should clay it.

Last edited by emilio700; 04-03-2014 at 02:00 AM.
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Old 04-03-2014, 02:44 AM   #186
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Our shfancy 2.0L build has seen several delays. The last was a machine shop accidentally removing some of the head coatings. Fun stuff. Anyway, it's back on track and we're told the long block will finally arrive here next week.

Anyway, I wanted to repost this dyno plot of Crushers 2013 nationals motor done back in September 2013. For reference, this was done with 1861cc and 10.4:1 compression, no coatings.

More details in this thread https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...7/#post1049820


Last edited by emilio700; 04-03-2014 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:48 AM   #187
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Emilio's drunk.
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:28 PM   #188
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Drunk with powah!!
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:50 PM   #189
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Default 2.0 Whammy

Motor arrived a few days ago. Finally got around to taking (bad) pictures.
We have had some change of plans for our project cars so this engine may end up going into a different car. Maybe the 95R? It could really use a dry sump or at least a vacuum pump but I wanted to build something that was a bit more within the reach of the average Miata enthusiast. Thus the wet sump. Dry sumps start at around $2500 and are not street car friendly.

13.0:1
1952cc
Coated chambers, exhaust ports and valves
.450 lift cams
+2mm CNC head

It will burn E85, run on an MS3Pro with sequential fuel and spark as well as individual cylinder trim for fuel/spark. 36T wheel

We anticipate it will just touch 200whp with a square top, which hasn't been done AFAIK. 215whp or so with the same ITB's we ran at 2013 NASA nationals. We made 191whp then on 1861cc 10.2:1 bottom end, no coatings and smaller cams.

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Project 200whp N/A-980596_667476076639287_2543906833624636483_o.jpg  

Last edited by emilio700; 04-17-2014 at 02:39 AM.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:55 PM   #190
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Thats so hot
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:01 AM   #191
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pimpy. In for some videos of whatever this goes into.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:45 AM   #192
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That's almost as much CR as people run on circle track small block Chevys that came to market in 1955. I'm saying without any real knowledge about what I am talking about (other than knowing people who race) that I think there might be even more room for growth. If you are on race fuel, why not push for a 14 or 15 CR?
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:14 AM   #193
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
That's almost as much CR as people run on circle track small block Chevys that came to market in 1955. I'm saying without any real knowledge about what I am talking about (other than knowing people who race) that I think there might be even more room for growth. If you are on race fuel, why not push for a 14 or 15 CR?
Because we already had some custom 12.0:1 JEs sitting on the shelf. We were shooting for 14:1 this is as much as we could get from these pistons. This engine will run on E85

Last edited by emilio700; 04-17-2014 at 01:38 AM.
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:26 AM   #194
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I'll take six!

Out of curiosity, which itb's were you using at nationals?
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Project 200whp N/A-71128d1307649524-sun-june-5th-sat-june-11th-its-beautiful.jpg  
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:39 AM   #195
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TWM 45's. Really needs 50's but like the pistons, its what we have laying around.

Last edited by emilio700; 04-17-2014 at 01:50 AM.
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Old 04-17-2014, 02:28 AM   #196
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Would definitely cheat on the wife with that motor.

robert
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Old 04-17-2014, 03:14 AM   #197
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We have had some change of plans for our project cars so this engine may end up going into a different car.
I could suggest a good Rotrex car to install it in.
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Old 04-17-2014, 08:49 AM   #198
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Very nice.

But why would a dry sump not be street car friendly?
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:36 PM   #199
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Nice setup.

Similar to the engine package I plan to put together for my Miata.

Though I wont be using coatings and I don't know what I'm doing with valves or cams yet. I will be using a custom intake manifold design that will be dyno optimized for power band... not ITB's.
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Old 04-17-2014, 02:00 PM   #200
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Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
Very nice.

But why would a dry sump not be street car friendly?
Packaging, cost. Oil tank is usually 18-22" tall x 6" diameter. Engine is built differently from the start. In my view, dry sump is sort of the last step in an N/A build to a full race only engine. If I were doing a dry sump, it would have .500 lift cams and 15:1 CR. But I have no use for such an grenade engine.

This engine was built with the intention of being used on the street. Thus, only .450 lift, way less duration than even a 185whp EP engine uses, wet sump. As mentioned before, the dry sump is a significant barrier to entry for most builders both from implementation and cost perspectives. Only a handful of shops around the country that know their way around a Miata dry sump (Prather, ARE, et,al). You would have to pay those guys to get your system right, or gamble with a $15k race motor. We always want the projects we do to have some real world relevance, trickle down the tech. 200whp with semi streetable cams and a wet sump. Possible..

EP dry sump


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Project 200whp N/A-bp_dry_sump_3.jpg   Project 200whp N/A-bp_dry_sump_5.jpg   Project 200whp N/A-bp_dry_sump_4.jpg  
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