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Old 08-12-2014, 08:09 PM   #1
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Default Rebuilding a VVT actuator with pics

I'm quoting this from Davezorz, and I think it's a great post. Anybody think it'd be a good one to sticky? At the very least people can now search "rebuilding a vvt actuator", and get this thread as a result.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davezorz View Post
Please forgive my vocabulary, I am not sure what the proper names for all the pieces are:

Gear removed from Car


cover and 4 10 MM bolts removed. notice the brown puck sitting in the groove, it normally sticks to the cover when you pull it apart.


Rubber puck/bushing thingy everyone is talking about. Ignore the spring in the picture


removing the center assembly from the gear. Note the black apex seals, some are coming out with the center assembly.


Center assembly removed with all apex seals in their relative positions


Close up of center assembly


Close up of gear with center assembly removed


Close up of rear (camshaft) side of center assembly


Close up of apex seal with spring


removing locking pin from gear


Close up of locking pin


Gear with locking pin removed


locking pin engagement in center assembly


VVT assembly in fully advanced position


VVT assembly in fully retarded position (this is the position it locks in)
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:18 PM   #2
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That's great, and thanks for posting that, but I want someone to take apart, re-assemble, and report that the car ran fine for longer than a week afterwards. Just sayin.

The pictures are definitely great though. Detailed
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:21 PM   #3
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I'll let you know when I mess with your VVT actuator in a few weeks on Oregonmon's car.
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Old 02-28-2015, 05:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
That's great, and thanks for posting that, but I want someone to take apart, re-assemble, and report that the car ran fine for longer than a week afterwards. Just sayin.
BTW done. And still working fine. Thanks to RyanG for digging this up and making me necro it.
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Old 02-28-2015, 06:16 PM   #5
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Curly, feel free to delete this post after answering, as sticky...

What does the rebuild part of this consist of? New apex seals, just cleaning out junk after an engine crash, etc ???

In other words, why do it? What to look for, what to change, etc. Inquiring minds want to know.
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Old 02-28-2015, 06:26 PM   #6
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People reassembling incorrectly, and yes, cleaning. That or you think the right way to remove it is removing the 4 m6 bolts, not the 3 tiny bolts on the cover to get to the 17mm main bolt.

That and morbid curiosity.
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Old 02-28-2015, 10:29 PM   #7
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Curly, are those seals available new? If so, where? I always thought Mazda only dealt with the actuator as a "black box".
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Old 02-28-2015, 10:53 PM   #8
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Miata roadster sells a great kit, with oil hard line o-ring, filter, housing gasket, 4 o-rings for the oil manifold, and one for the large case o-ring, pictured first in the 2nd photo above. Along with the actuator o-ring. They're all high temp viton, a much better material than standard rubber. All for $35. Highly recommended.

But no, the so called "apex seals" cannot be bought new as far as I know, and also don't wear out afaik. And the MR kit doesn't require you to go this far, or even un-do the timing belt.

No engine rebuild kit, oem or after market, includes these o-rings/gaskets.
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Old 03-01-2015, 01:51 AM   #9
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When I say Apex seals you say Mazda............................................. ...................Miata !


I'll have to see how far I took apart my VVT actuator when I get to that stage. I hope I didn't pull it all apart. I'm a little scarred.
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Old 03-01-2015, 08:25 PM   #10
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Sticky.
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Old 03-02-2015, 12:03 AM   #11
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Thanks. Was just going to do this once my head was back from the shop. Always paranoid metal bits from the prior owner, or cleaning bath at the shop, will get in there. Want to make sure it's all clean and pretty in there. -props and thanks
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:38 AM   #12
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Hrmmm, my VVT actuator has been making an...interesting...grinding noise ever since I put the head on. Might be time to look into this.
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Old 03-11-2015, 01:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Miata roadster sells a great kit, with oil hard line o-ring, filter, housing gasket, 4 o-rings for the oil manifold, and one for the large case o-ring, pictured first in the 2nd photo above. Along with the actuator o-ring. They're all high temp viton, a much better material than standard rubber. All for $35. Highly recommended.

But no, the so called "apex seals" cannot be bought new as far as I know, and also don't wear out afaik. And the MR kit doesn't require you to go this far, or even un-do the timing belt.
Good to know about the o-rings.

I actually just sent Dave back his VVT actuator with new seals/sliders/ and puck that we had made. We didn't try making the metal springs, just the seals.

I agree that none of those pieces are really wear items, but we decided to see if we could make any replacement bits for the ones that either get lost or damaged after reassembly. It's probably answering a question nobody really asks, but it's for science, right?

We'll see how they hold up whenever he gets it installed and running.
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Old 05-22-2015, 01:15 PM   #14
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I need some help and clarification here. If you look at this post in miata.net, specifically if you look at the attached pictures in this post, the OP seems to install the locking pin and corresponding spring backwards or a least it appears to be installed backwards in comparison to the pictures in this thread. Can you clarify what is the proper way install the locking pin and corresponding spring and thank you very much for this super awesome thread.

VVT Solenoid assembly. - MX-5 Miata Forum
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Old 02-24-2016, 07:52 PM   #15
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has anyone modified the VVT swing in both diretions?
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:04 PM   #16
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Does anyone have details about torque specs for the four 10mm bolts and the three cover bolts... or are you just tightening them to she'll-be-right spec?
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:21 PM   #17
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The torque for the 3 countersunk screws on the front of the actuator is 34-52 in/lbs.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:22 PM   #18
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Adding this pic for any future DIY'ers.



Reassembles in the same orientation shown, with the spring sitting on the rod, followed by the cap, and finally the c-clip.

Not really a reason to do disassemble the solenoid, but we recently had a bearing eat itself, so any and all oil related items are being thoroughly cleaned or replaced.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:28 PM   #19
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Mine is loud so i unplugged it for the last few months i drove the car. Sounded like a cross between rod and cam noise, freaked me out a bit. Unplugged its quiet of course. I'mgoing to pull it sometime and figure out what it is
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrew View Post
Mine is loud so i unplugged it for the last few months i drove the car. Sounded like a cross between rod and cam noise, freaked me out a bit. Unplugged its quiet of course. I'mgoing to pull it sometime and figure out what it is
Let me know if you need any parts. I have 2 or 3 bad ones now laying around on a shelf. They died for various reasons but i would think some parts would be salvageable.
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