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Old 01-31-2010, 10:31 PM   #61
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Swap the engine out of your brother's Ninja. Poetic justice.

No way the LS1 swap is in your budget, or a 5.0 for that matter, so funk dat. I would definitely drop in Hustler's motor as-is and drive that while taking your time to scrounge for cheap parts to build another motor.

Hell, I have a set of 3 of 4 Supertech oversize 1.8L pistons I will sell you cheap. Maybe make a trade. #1 of the set was damaged from detonation. #2-#4 look fine. Just get one matching piston from Belfab or someone like that to make it a set. You'll want new rings maybe. PM me if you are interested.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:39 AM   #62
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Quote:
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Swap the engine out of your brother's Ninja. Poetic justice.
I giggled.




Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
Hell, I have a set of 3 of 4 Supertech oversize 1.8L pistons I will sell you cheap. Maybe make a trade. #1 of the set was damaged from detonation. #2-#4 look fine. Just get one matching piston from Belfab or someone like that to make it a set. You'll want new rings maybe. PM me if you are interested.
You would catch up with me the day after I order $500 worth of 1.6L rebuild parts and nearly finish porting my spare 1.6L head...

I would have jumped on the offer, except it would mean changing out my turbo setup as well, which is definitely not in the budget.

I had a good talk with Shaikh the other day about revalving (seems he's kind of getting out of it...just selling new setups), and am gonna be saving up for a suspension that finally suits my tastes.

Motor is definitely a budget build now, and I'll be ecstatic if I break 260whp. Main concern is that everything be new, well built and dependable. I don't want to throw away a lot of money trying to go too much faster and ending up short where it matters somewhere.


So here's the plan:


-Rehone cylinders, clean block & paint
-New crank and rod bearings
-Belfab rods
-Stock pistons, new rings
-Pin fit by local Napa
-Ported head (80% done)
-Lap valves, clean lifters
-Adjustable intake cam gear
-Cut valve cover, wrinkle black
-All Mazda gaskets and seals
-Freeze plug in front waterneck hole, finish reroute spacer with real water temp sensor
-Reuse 70K mile oil pump
-Move over my 10K mile timing belt and water pump (these will be easy to replace later with open front bay setup)
-Honda B18 hybrid intake manifold with 60mm throttle body
-Turbocoupe (4219) compressor upgrade (12-->16psi)


That's a long enough punch list as it is, and don't want to bite off any more at this point. Head is completely disassebled and casting ugliness has been cleaned. Engine just hit the stand, and disassembly starts this week. Judging by the -amazing- condition of the head I went ahead and ordered standard bearings hoping to speed up the rebuild. If oil clearances don't check out then they'll be for sale and I'll order exactly what I need at that point. Rockauto FTW on rings and bearings.


I'll be happy to have real compression again, and happier knowing I did it with my own hands.
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:09 AM   #63
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Engine build is going very slow due to school, work and family.

Meanwhile my car is burning LOTS of oil, and getting worse.

Apparently my LC-1 WBO2 sensor just died....CRAP.


In an attempt to actually diagnose the problem and see if it might be an on-car fix here are the symptoms.


-burns leaving red lights after sitting at idle
-burns a little under hard acceleration
-burns a lot AFTER a long boosted run, while in vacuum ( I mean it dumps a cloud behind car when I let off)
-noticed yesterday I have oil seeping out of my MBC lines while adjusting boost down again. Will need to pull intake tract and see where all I'm getting oil.


I'm starting to think it may not be rings. Could still be a combination of problems, but I'm getting valve seal and PCV symptoms as well.

Any ideas?
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:20 AM   #64
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usually oil in the charge piping means blown turbo, unless you have your valve cover vented into your intake pipe, then it could be the blowby pushing into the intake.


Same symptoms as my KA-t had in my 240. then i boosted it to the moon. results:
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:25 AM   #65
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Ouch.

Yes, my VC is vented to the intake.

No signs thus far of blown turbo seals etc etc.

It seems like I'm pressurizing the crank case during high boost, and it then cause a LOT of blowby the next time it sees vacuum.

Just wanted to make sure no one would say "replace your PCV and be happy you idiot"

EDIT: This car has never seen over 12psi.
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:31 AM   #66
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Ouch.

Yes, my VC is vented to the intake.

It seems like I'm pressurizing the crank case during high boost, and it then cause a LOT of blowby the next time it sees vacuum.
.
I thought you weren't supposed to pressurize the case...
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:37 AM   #67
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I thought you weren't supposed to pressurize the case...
Crappy compression rings are allowing the case to pressurize.

Isn't that the point of a PCV valve? You get some blowby normally anyways.
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:26 PM   #68
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yeah but not that much blowby you have issues do a compression test if you dont beleive it but yeah something on the bottom end has to be screwed up thats where my money would go.
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Old 02-11-2010, 06:02 PM   #69
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+1 on compression test. the piston pictured above had 25psi.

my readings were 160,162,90,25.

i then proceeded to pull the head once my timing was verified.
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Old 02-11-2010, 06:10 PM   #70
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Anyone else ever have their WBO2 start throwing default values due to burning oil?

I know you can't clean these, just have to replace. It started shutting down every few minutes, then every minute, and then within seconds of turning on. Strange part is it reads accurately before it goes 10.8->7.4-> 21.7
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Old 02-12-2010, 02:15 AM   #71
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um yeah dude take the WB out it isnt doing you any good.
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