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I have. 5 times and counting now. It's a non-issue.
What DOES suck is installing a new transmission with a QMax already present.
That's good to hear, thank you! Did you have trouble realigning the input shaft? I just did this two weeks ago since my rear main was leaking. Your buddy Copper just pushed the front of the motor back towards the firewall, went like butter.
That's good to hear, thank you! Did you have trouble realigning the input shaft? I just did this two weeks ago since my rear main was leaking. Your buddy Copper just pushed the front of the motor back towards the firewall, went like butter.
Mostly i had problems threading the needle because it's easiest for the trans to get where it needs to go clocked at about a 20 degree angle to spline it. I typically spline at that angle, then rotate straight as it slips over. Can't really do that with the Qmax there.
What ended up working was jacking the front of the motor sky high with a jack/2x4 (it will tilt a LOT without the Qmax hitting the firewall) and then it only took another 30 minutes of The Cursing Olympics to work out.
Obviously jacking the front of the motor up makes things easier in general, but i typically don't need to do that, and i've done a few trans/clutch jobs in my time.
Mostly i had problems threading the needle because it's easiest for the trans to get where it needs to go clocked at about a 20 degree angle to spline it. I typically spline at that angle, then rotate straight as it slips over. Can't really do that with the Qmax there.
What ended up working was jacking the front of the motor sky high with a jack/2x4 (it will tilt a LOT without the Qmax hitting the firewall) and then it only took another 30 minutes of The Cursing Olympics to work out.
Obviously jacking the front of the motor up makes things easier in general, but i typically don't need to do that, and i've done a few trans/clutch jobs in my time.
Copper = Cooper = Justin? He's my dude!
Sounds like I just had some luck with the re installation then. Yeah hes a good dude. I helped him get the rest of his rear suspension off, I love me some rust. His car is back on the road now.
Is there a dedicated turbo feed port? Can't find anything about this in the description :(
Excuse me for asking noob questions but what would be the best place to get the feed from? Seems to me like it could come from any place except for the return side of the pump. One way I found in a video is using the blocking plate on the front like this picture.
The reroute comes with two threaded holes in the thermostat neck block off plate. 1/8npt and 1.6 fan switch threads. Either could be used for a -AN adapter.
The reroute comes with two threaded holes in the thermostat neck block off plate. 1/8npt and 1.6 fan switch threads. Either could be used for a -AN adapter.
Thanks but if I decide to remove the ugly water neck, none of those will be there, right? :(
Drill, tap, add fitting. I figure by the point someone puts this plate in it is well into DIY territory and they should be able to figure it out. It is difficult to guess at all the possible combinations of fittings and accommodate them on a small plate.
I know the qmax kit doesn't use a standard MX5 thermostat, and instead uses a Stant one.
Is the thermostat used a commonly available one (ie: thermostat for X make/model/year will fit in place of the stant)? or is it a specific stant one?
Asking since i'll be needing to do a reroute sometime this year, and stant arent really stocked here in Aust, so if an equivalent is available from Tridon or whatever that would make it a lot more attractive.
Looks like that part was mainly for GM gear, and a couple of Suzukis that look to be USA specific. (well, the Gates brand cross ref number didnt come up with anything on the Aust parts catalogue)
So sounds like Aussie buyers would need to order thermostats from the US and have them shipped.
bugger.
The QMAX includes a new thermostat. Replacements thermostats available on our site and everywhere in the US. It is a component that is not likely to fail anytime soon. I would not obsess over it.
Just installed this on an NB2. Very pleasant install and quality stuff.
At the back of the head I was unable to re-use the original Bolt, there simply is not enough room for a "regular" socket to seat on the bolt head. I replaced it with a Cap head hex bolt.
With the VVT oil piping in the rear and other wiring, it's impossible to fit and angle a flathead to tighten the hose clamp, so you will need a 7mm wrench to do it easily.
I'm having a weird issue though, my ECU reads temperature correctly (cruising at 91-94C) but my linearized OEM dash gauge only indicates 1/3 (it used to sit precisely at 12 o'clock since I have custom gauges).
I did use teflon tape on the oem sensor, but it doesnt cover the aluminium crush washer, so its weird that it would be a grounding issue (wouldn't the ECU reading show an error as well?)
The latest kits have a few areas of anodizing machined off to form a continuous grounding path under the OEM sensor. If you have interrupted that ground path with anything, you may have sensor issues.
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