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Anyone replaced the old spacer/Kia neck type set up with one of these yet? This thing looks really nice and just curious if it would be worth upgrading while I've still got my motor out.
I am replacing my Begi/Skou/hawleyperformance spacer and kia water neck with the QMax. I want the nipple to burp coolant with, along with I have never been overly happy with the spacer way. So I figured I would try something else out.
Looks like, as compared to the spacer / Kia method, there's more room to get a wrench back in there, and perhaps even a tiny bit less depth front to back. Will be curious to hear the report of someone who removes a spacer reroute, replaces it with this, and takes measurements and photos while they're both on the bench.
Got around today to dropping my engine back in today with my new Qmax coolant reroute. Things didn't go as smoothly as the two other times I've taken my motor in and out. The Qmax is definitely bigger than the stock water neck that was on there previous. I tried so many combinations to try and get the engine to slip in but each time the main body of the reroute would hit the fire wall and keep me from swinging the engine in like I've done before. It really was no big deal and after a few minutes of thinking I took out my trusty BFH and did a minor modification to my firewall. It's not the prettiest modification i've ever seen but it will work I'm going for performance not aesthetics. All in all I am very happy, I love the way it looks and feel better knowing my cooling system will work more efficiently now.
Qmax installed!! I took some pix, but toys and cats managed to stay out of the frame. Sorry about that.
I found myself with four reroutes on hand, so I did a photo comparison of each. It's a huge blog post with, I think, 38 photos. I'll just link to it instead of copying it all here.
Qmax vs the old guard.
949 gives you everything you need except for a jug of coolant. It's an amazingly complete kit.
The snap ring only lets you install a Superstat. A regular thermostat has too large an outer diameter for that snap ring to clip over it.
On the back of a spare motor. Notice the room for sockets to fit? And it even lets you keep the stock lower stud in place.
Lots of clearance for everything. Lots of room to slide the hose on.
Smooth inner surface. No sharp edges to hinder flow.
Gasket goop applied.
Fully dressed and waiting for installation.
Front blog off plate. Sharka's FM hard lines require me to keep that water neck in place.
In place behind the motor. It was quite easy to get it back there compared to other kits I've used.
I was thinking it would just mean longer load times for the whole page. So people would spend more time staring at your pretty QMax reroute, and then subconsciously go buy one.
Got around today to dropping my engine back in today with my new Qmax coolant reroute. Things didn't go as smoothly as the two other times I've taken my motor in and out. The Qmax is definitely bigger than the stock water neck that was on there previous. I tried so many combinations to try and get the engine to slip in but each time the main body of the reroute would hit the fire wall and keep me from swinging the engine in like I've done before. It really was no big deal and after a few minutes of thinking I took out my trusty BFH and did a minor modification to my firewall. It's not the prettiest modification i've ever seen but it will work I'm going for performance not aesthetics. All in all I am very happy, I love the way it looks and feel better knowing my cooling system will work more efficiently now.
Is this to be expected? I thought clearances were way better with this. Looks like he had to hammer the firewall a bit to get things to go in smoothly.
Is this to be expected? I thought clearances were way better with this. Looks like he had to hammer the firewall a bit to get things to go in smoothly.
Maybe dropping the sway bar would help. It'll avoid any clearance issue when tipping in, and without the radiator in place, you can start lifting the back end of the trans sooner. I'd rather undo 4 bolts than bash my firewall
Is this to be expected? I thought clearances were way better with this. Looks like he had to hammer the firewall a bit to get things to go in smoothly.
Unknown how he had his engine and trans configured and what he cleared out of the way. In any case, firewall clearance is reason #1 that Mazda flipped the coolant flow in the first place.
We have dropped many engines into the bay with trans connected and M-Tuned adapter on them. Not a big deal, just requires some finesse. Hammering of firewall absolutely not required.
Maybe dropping the sway bar would help. It'll avoid any clearance issue when tipping in, and without the radiator in place, you can start lifting the back end of the trans sooner. I'd rather undo 4 bolts than bash my firewall
I hope that's it. I know I have to take off my RB sway bar to do most things under the car... like suspension work. It takes up quite a lot of room!
Originally Posted by emilio700
Unknown how he had his engine and trans configured and what he cleared out of the way. In any case, firewall clearance is reason #1 that Mazda flipped the coolant flow in the first place.
We have dropped many engines into the bay with trans connected and M-Tuned adapter on them. Not a big deal, just requires some finesse. Hammering of firewall absolutely not required.
I did have one issue when installing mine, but it was minor: the provided cap screw bottomed in the head before it had pulled the reroute tight. I put a washer on it, problem solved. The seat for the bolt on the stud side was too narrow for the flanged bolt to sit down on it, so I got a non-flanged bolt for it.
SO
only suggestions I have is to include a non-flanged bolt for the stud, and a washer or shorter bolt for the other hole into the head. That'd make it truly PNP.
I also couldn't figure out what I was supposed to do with the drain plug.
Stock heater outlet neck: 37mm clearance needed.
BEGI / Kia neck: 70mm
Hawley / Kia neck: 66mm
M Tuned: 69mm
949 Qmax: 72mm
So the Qmax needs 2mm more than the popular BEGI spacer/neck. And from my own experience I know there to be about 85-87mm of clearance behind the motor once it's mounted.
John Wing (Satisaii) is our engineer. He's had to install all the many M-Tuneds over the years. So along with my input, he wanted to make it a lot easier to install. It's cool that a lot of folks have noticed the tool clearance and general ease of installation he fussed over so much. So stuff like the freaky long bolt without enough room to install it never made it past him. So many functional oversights easily overcome by just installing one in a car and giving a damn.
Thanks Emilio. Overall I was super impressed with the instructions and the fitment of everything. Extremely nice quality. Felt jealous that it was going on my dad's car rather than mine. Will replace my m-tuned with this next time my engine comes out.
Is this to be expected? I thought clearances were way better with this. Looks like he had to hammer the firewall a bit to get things to go in smoothly.
I tried so many different angles while dropping the engine in and just couldnt get it to angle enough to get my motor mounts to drop into place without binding up on the reroute. Its only the second time ive ever tried to install a motor so im sure theres a better way without hammering thr firewall. I probably took a little more frustrations out on the firewall than I needed to. I did however pull the valve cover and coil braket to do something else once the engine was in and It seemed like there was plenty of room to install or pull the reroute. I just assumed it would be easier with the motor out but considering my inexperience that may not have been the case.
08-28-2017, 02:33 PM
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