Yep.

Ecu side of the sensor grounds through harness. Gauge side grounds through the body of the sensor. Pretty normal "trouble area" for a reroute.

 

The NB CLT sensor only uses the body of the sensor to ground the gauge cluster reading. The sensor unit has two separate thermistors in the same package; the one used by the ECU has two terminals with a dedicated ground, while the one used for the dash gauge relies on grounding through the body for the sensor ground reference. This explains why it's possible to have odd dash readings without any issues at the ECU end.

Better question: why did you use teflon tape on the straight threads of the coolant temp sensor?

 

I did notice the nice machined surfaces
The sensor body is in direct contact with the Aluminium crush washer which in turn is in direct contact with the machined surface on the reroute, I will have to investigate.
It's also possible that the actual reroute housing is not in good electrical contact with the head, due to good sealant coverage.

The easy fix is just running a ground wire from the sensor or somewhere in the housing into the head.

@afm Extra insurance as I did not replace the crush washer. I will remove it and test again when I get a new crush washer.


EDIT: Does anyone happen to know the temperature at which the Stant fully opens? Couldnt find much info on it.

 

A little off topic, but some words of praise. Supermiata/949 is by far one of the best vendors I have dealt with in terms of customer service and part quality. Thank you guys for continually developing amazing parts for these cars! Also, Ed is a phenemonal hire, you guys did good there!

 

We have tested the new ground path quite thoroughly. Any installation steps that might break that ground path will cause a problem. Being a parallel thread sensor with a crush washer, it does not require, nor should it have teflon tape or sealant.

 

Thanks for the kind words, Luke.

 

It is a 195°, as listed in the instructions. Don't spend too much time thinking about how fast it opens. If the system is working correctly, it is irrelevant information.

 

Will have to +1 on this. On the day I bought the QMAX, the supermiata website had an issue where it would indicate shipping was not available internationally, I was a bit upset and left the item in the cart. Not 5 minutes after I get an email from Ed letting me know of the problem and helping me set up an order and shipping quote! Even with the email overhead the whole thing took around 20 minutes after I replied including a few unrelated questions, zero hassle for me and a sale was made.

Not only that but Ed has also answered a few questions I had recently very quickly, even on a Saturday, saving me a lot of fussing about and possible delays. Can't really beat that.


On topic of the sensor, removed sensor, removed teflon tape, replaced crush washer with new copper one and cleaned up seat on the sensor body; all working correctly now
Getting the sensor out with the reroute installed and the VVT blob at the rear was...interesting. Freeing up the booster vacuum hard line is essential if not using a ratcheting wrench (using a socket is basically impossible due to conflicts with firewall rubber grommet and clutch hose)

 

Thanks Gents, happy to be here.

Yep, very tight back there. Glad cleaning things up solved the gauge issue.

 

quick question about the OEM sender for the temp gauge.

is the OEM sender thread tapered and should be tightened until snug? is teflon tape good to use or do I want to use pipe thread sealer ? Also for after market sender next to the heater hose barb, is it also tapered - assuming yes, just snug fit 12ft lbs or so.

 

If any sensor on any vehicle has a crush washer, it is not NPT (tapered).
Use sealant or PTFE tape on NPT threads only.

 

I just installed my Supermiata coolant reroute on my new engine, prior to installation. Unfortunately, it leaks. I followed directions, but I don’t think that the sealer is as reliable as a good gasket. Very tight to try to get it apart to try and fix the leak.

Paul M Hellings

 

I recently installed one on my car and my first attempt failed because I over tightened the bolt/nut. This is what it looked like when I took it off. Obvious I squished all the sealant out.


I reinstalled and was careful to not over tighten and I've put about 200 miles on the car and it's been good so far. The sealant works fine it it's applied properly.

 

Mine leaked from the thermostat housing. Took it apart ( ouch) and did it again. This time no leaks. I would still prefer a gasket.

Paul

 

Properly applied, I’ll take a good quality rtv seal over any gasket, and I reseal/test engines on a daily basis. A lot of modern engines are only sealed with rtv, saved the head and manifolds.

 

You guys need to try Indian Head Shellac. Best stuff ever for water pumps, thermostat housings, etc. Messy as hell if you slop it on, but I have never, ever had one leak after that stuff. One bottle will last a lifetime.

 

Small update, apparently the temp gauge is still acting up. I had assumed it was fine since it was getting nearer the center but it seems to still be broken.

Currently no PTFE tape or gunk in the sensor or housing threads, brand new copper crush washer and I cleaned the body of the sensor where the washer touches with brake cleaner and a fine wire brush until I could see shiny brass.

Likely the circuit failure is between the housing and the head, but Im not about to remove the bolt or nut to clean them and risk leaks.

I tried touching some copper wire to the sensor body and a few places on the head but that didnt seem to change the reading on the gauge.

Is there some way to rig the sensor? Some specific place and way to ground it somewhere else?

 

I had to ground mine separately. Apparently it couldn't get an adequate ground through the anodized portion. I was surprised at that but, once grounded the gauge worked fine.

Paul

 

What did you use to ground it, just some wrapped wire? Which grounding point did you use?

 

The ground path is through the base of the sensor, then one of the bolts that holds the main housing to the Head. There are a few different potential potential paths but you do not need to add a wire. Just remove the anodizing on your selected ground path from the sensor to the head with a bit of sandpaper.