Supermiata Qmax Coolant Reroute
#202
I'm having a weird issue though, my ECU reads temperature correctly (cruising at 91-94C) but my linearized OEM dash gauge only indicates 1/3 (it used to sit precisely at 12 o'clock since I have custom gauges).
I did use teflon tape on the oem sensor, but it doesnt cover the aluminium crush washer, so its weird that it would be a grounding issue (wouldn't the ECU reading show an error as well?)
Any ideas?
Better question: why did you use teflon tape on the straight threads of the coolant temp sensor?
#203
I did notice the nice machined surfaces
The sensor body is in direct contact with the Aluminium crush washer which in turn is in direct contact with the machined surface on the reroute, I will have to investigate.
It's also possible that the actual reroute housing is not in good electrical contact with the head, due to good sealant coverage.
The easy fix is just running a ground wire from the sensor or somewhere in the housing into the head.
@afm Extra insurance as I did not replace the crush washer. I will remove it and test again when I get a new crush washer.
EDIT: Does anyone happen to know the temperature at which the Stant fully opens? Couldnt find much info on it.
The sensor body is in direct contact with the Aluminium crush washer which in turn is in direct contact with the machined surface on the reroute, I will have to investigate.
It's also possible that the actual reroute housing is not in good electrical contact with the head, due to good sealant coverage.
The easy fix is just running a ground wire from the sensor or somewhere in the housing into the head.
@afm Extra insurance as I did not replace the crush washer. I will remove it and test again when I get a new crush washer.
EDIT: Does anyone happen to know the temperature at which the Stant fully opens? Couldnt find much info on it.
Last edited by lbatalha; 06-03-2019 at 07:04 AM.
#208
A little off topic, but some words of praise. Supermiata/949 is by far one of the best vendors I have dealt with in terms of customer service and part quality. Thank you guys for continually developing amazing parts for these cars! Also, Ed is a phenemonal hire, you guys did good there!
Not only that but Ed has also answered a few questions I had recently very quickly, even on a Saturday, saving me a lot of fussing about and possible delays. Can't really beat that.
On topic of the sensor, removed sensor, removed teflon tape, replaced crush washer with new copper one and cleaned up seat on the sensor body; all working correctly now
Getting the sensor out with the reroute installed and the VVT blob at the rear was...interesting. Freeing up the booster vacuum hard line is essential if not using a ratcheting wrench (using a socket is basically impossible due to conflicts with firewall rubber grommet and clutch hose)
#210
quick question about the OEM sender for the temp gauge.
is the OEM sender thread tapered and should be tightened until snug? is teflon tape good to use or do I want to use pipe thread sealer ? Also for after market sender next to the heater hose barb, is it also tapered - assuming yes, just snug fit 12ft lbs or so.
is the OEM sender thread tapered and should be tightened until snug? is teflon tape good to use or do I want to use pipe thread sealer ? Also for after market sender next to the heater hose barb, is it also tapered - assuming yes, just snug fit 12ft lbs or so.
#212
I would prefer a gasket
I just installed my Supermiata coolant reroute on my new engine, prior to installation. Unfortunately, it leaks. I followed directions, but I don’t think that the sealer is as reliable as a good gasket. Very tight to try to get it apart to try and fix the leak.
Paul M Hellings
Paul M Hellings
#213
I just installed my Supermiata coolant reroute on my new engine, prior to installation. Unfortunately, it leaks. I followed directions, but I don’t think that the sealer is as reliable as a good gasket. Very tight to try to get it apart to try and fix the leak.
Paul M Hellings
Paul M Hellings
I reinstalled and was careful to not over tighten and I've put about 200 miles on the car and it's been good so far. The sealant works fine it it's applied properly.
#215
Cpt. Slow
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Properly applied, I’ll take a good quality rtv seal over any gasket, and I reseal/test engines on a daily basis. A lot of modern engines are only sealed with rtv, saved the head and manifolds.
#216
Elite Member
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You guys need to try Indian Head Shellac. Best stuff ever for water pumps, thermostat housings, etc. Messy as hell if you slop it on, but I have never, ever had one leak after that stuff. One bottle will last a lifetime.
#217
Small update, apparently the temp gauge is still acting up. I had assumed it was fine since it was getting nearer the center but it seems to still be broken.
Currently no PTFE tape or gunk in the sensor or housing threads, brand new copper crush washer and I cleaned the body of the sensor where the washer touches with brake cleaner and a fine wire brush until I could see shiny brass.
Likely the circuit failure is between the housing and the head, but Im not about to remove the bolt or nut to clean them and risk leaks.
I tried touching some copper wire to the sensor body and a few places on the head but that didnt seem to change the reading on the gauge.
Is there some way to rig the sensor? Some specific place and way to ground it somewhere else?
Currently no PTFE tape or gunk in the sensor or housing threads, brand new copper crush washer and I cleaned the body of the sensor where the washer touches with brake cleaner and a fine wire brush until I could see shiny brass.
Likely the circuit failure is between the housing and the head, but Im not about to remove the bolt or nut to clean them and risk leaks.
I tried touching some copper wire to the sensor body and a few places on the head but that didnt seem to change the reading on the gauge.
Is there some way to rig the sensor? Some specific place and way to ground it somewhere else?
#218
Small update, apparently the temp gauge is still acting up. I had assumed it was fine since it was getting nearer the center but it seems to still be broken.
Currently no PTFE tape or gunk in the sensor or housing threads, brand new copper crush washer and I cleaned the body of the sensor where the washer touches with brake cleaner and a fine wire brush until I could see shiny brass.
Likely the circuit failure is between the housing and the head, but Im not about to remove the bolt or nut to clean them and risk leaks.
I tried touching some copper wire to the sensor body and a few places on the head but that didnt seem to change the reading on the gauge.
Is there some way to rig the sensor? Some specific place and way to ground it somewhere else?
Currently no PTFE tape or gunk in the sensor or housing threads, brand new copper crush washer and I cleaned the body of the sensor where the washer touches with brake cleaner and a fine wire brush until I could see shiny brass.
Likely the circuit failure is between the housing and the head, but Im not about to remove the bolt or nut to clean them and risk leaks.
I tried touching some copper wire to the sensor body and a few places on the head but that didnt seem to change the reading on the gauge.
Is there some way to rig the sensor? Some specific place and way to ground it somewhere else?
Paul
#220
The ground path is through the base of the sensor, then one of the bolts that holds the main housing to the Head. There are a few different potential potential paths but you do not need to add a wire. Just remove the anodizing on your selected ground path from the sensor to the head with a bit of sandpaper.
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