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Old 12-21-2010, 06:26 PM   #21
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Since I`m going through a rebuild myself right now, I`d recommenced stock pistons, m-tuned, cat power or Belfab type rods ($200-$400), Sealed Power Chromoly rings, ARP rod bolts, head studs, cometic head gasket and OEM main studs and Clevite tri-metal bearings. That setup should be fine to 250whp, which in all honesty there aren`t really that many people above that that are doing a `budget` build like yourself.

You can do this rebuild for under $1200 or so.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:49 PM   #22
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Lemme give you a valuable piece of advice, OP: Some things can be done cheap, and some things can't be done cheap.

I learned this the hard way - You get what you pay for. DO NOT cheap out on rebuilding the engine. If you can't afford the rods AND pistons, save up. You WILL end up regretting it down the line, and I really mean WILL.
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:38 PM   #23
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Falcon, I appreciate the response. The parts list is very similar to what I will be running.

Rider384, I'm not cheaping out on the rebuild. I have m-tuned rods sitting in the box, a cometic headgasket, the block is honed and cleaned, have a new timing belt kit, head and valves have been thuroughly cleaned, etc. The numbers on the pistons are really my only question at this point. They are definately stock pistons therefore they must be stock bore but I want to make sure what the casting numbers mean before I install them.
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Old 12-23-2010, 01:18 AM   #24
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Unless you're going to be racing on the track, I would still say to go with OEM pistons. Don't go forged unless you're planning lots of track abuse or big power.

As for bore, get a caliper and measure.
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