What to do while the motor is out
#21
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You can have hard oil feed and oil return lines no problem. Same with water feed and return. If your turbo is moving independently from the motor you have an issue.
While motor is out I would upgrade the rods, pistons, oil pump.
While motor is out I would upgrade the rods, pistons, oil pump.
#25
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On a side-note... is there anything I have to do before I pull the motor out if I'm going to change the timing belt? My only concern is the big bolt on the front of the engine just spinning the engine instead of coming out. Do I need to loosen that before I disconnect the driveshaft?
#29
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I'm in the same position as OP. Just about to pull the motor to fix some stubborn leaks.
So far this is my list. Compression test the motor before pulling it, if compression is good i will do the following:
Clean the ever living hell out of the engine bay and motor
New front/rear main seal.
New waterpump/timing belt/seals
Paint valve cover, new gasket
New CAS O ring
Pull off and Drill/tap oil pan return line(using ---- tastic stock greddy one), since i'm pulling the pan probably get it welded, reseal oil pan.
Possibly motor mounts, will see how the oem ones are looking
Delete AC, maybe powersteering as well.
New turbo manifold gasket. Have turbo and manifold checked for flatness to run without gasket.
If compression numbers come up shitty I will most likey do one of two things.
1) budget rebuild 1.6, forged rods, stock pistons, new rings, cyclnder hone, head gasket, etc.
2) try and source 1.8l to swap in, keep stock internals for now, build/buy turbo kit for it.
What do you guys think? I'm thinking if i did a budget rebuild on my 1.6 with forged rods it will come out around the same price as sourcing a stock lower mileage 1.8, which would you guys choose in that case? I'm leaning towards my 1.6 with rods if it came down to it because I already have the turbo kit.
I'm really not looking for huge numbers, i've been running this car at around 200whp for ever now and my plan is to tune for 15psi this summer and get around 240whp or so.
So far this is my list. Compression test the motor before pulling it, if compression is good i will do the following:
Clean the ever living hell out of the engine bay and motor
New front/rear main seal.
New waterpump/timing belt/seals
Paint valve cover, new gasket
New CAS O ring
Pull off and Drill/tap oil pan return line(using ---- tastic stock greddy one), since i'm pulling the pan probably get it welded, reseal oil pan.
Possibly motor mounts, will see how the oem ones are looking
Delete AC, maybe powersteering as well.
New turbo manifold gasket. Have turbo and manifold checked for flatness to run without gasket.
If compression numbers come up shitty I will most likey do one of two things.
1) budget rebuild 1.6, forged rods, stock pistons, new rings, cyclnder hone, head gasket, etc.
2) try and source 1.8l to swap in, keep stock internals for now, build/buy turbo kit for it.
What do you guys think? I'm thinking if i did a budget rebuild on my 1.6 with forged rods it will come out around the same price as sourcing a stock lower mileage 1.8, which would you guys choose in that case? I'm leaning towards my 1.6 with rods if it came down to it because I already have the turbo kit.
I'm really not looking for huge numbers, i've been running this car at around 200whp for ever now and my plan is to tune for 15psi this summer and get around 240whp or so.
#30
Great "motor is out" time to do this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-saved-posts-8/slave-cylinder-uber-clutch-line-dummies-20209/
https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-saved-posts-8/slave-cylinder-uber-clutch-line-dummies-20209/
#32
put the gasket up to the head/manifold and hit it with some paint to mark where the gasket is. used a grinder or cutter and remove material(no more than an inch in). it makes manifold and port the same size and shape as the gasket. this makes for better/smoother flow.
kinda like this but i use paint so i dont mess up the gasket...kind of a poor execution on this guys part but it gives you a good idea of what im talking about
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9qnGqSZysY
kinda like this but i use paint so i dont mess up the gasket...kind of a poor execution on this guys part but it gives you a good idea of what im talking about
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9qnGqSZysY
my head
#34
put the gasket up to the head/manifold and hit it with some paint to mark where the gasket is. used a grinder or cutter and remove material(no more than an inch in). it makes manifold and port the same size and shape as the gasket. this makes for better/smoother flow.
What do you think you do with the flow if you make a bulb on the effective runner (making the runner/port area bigger just an inch on either side of the gasket)?
If you continue to make the area larger through whole runner you might be on to something, but them you should aim for a continuous taper all the way though.
Or am I just being to ---- and thinking tuned tapered runners for N/A.?
#39
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That is what I figured. I wasn't planning to take the head off as long as there was no evidence of a bad head gasket, so I guess I'll leave the port-matching for another day.
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