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If you just squeeze and go with the flux core it will make a stronger weld. The main benefit of mig welding is the speed/productivity. Your tig looks cold, long arc length and half way through it looks like you dipped the tungsten.
I'm never going back to flux core as long as I have access to gas. Hated that ****.
Tig was 125 amps full pedal and that piece was already pretty hot, maybe just didn't wait long enough to move after jamming rod in so it cooled it too much. Tungsten didn't dip at the end, the corner blew away because I didn't back off the pedal enough when I got close to the edge. Still lots of learning to do for sure.
What's your torch angle like? Try and be conscious of this with tig, it can cause various unexpected results with the weld.
I try to hold it like 15 to 20 degrees pushing but once I get going and focus too much on one variable, one of the other variables goes to ****. Like if I'm focusing on torch angle maybe height or travel speed gets fucked up or if I'm focusing on feeding rod maybe another variable goes out the window etc.
What is the brown slag between the weldments on your mig weld? If your welding with co2 it looks dirty. Also you should post as welded pics of your tig welds to show the discoloration from the heat. In the middle the weld, the puddle started to move up and down which is a sign of an unstable arc. What point angle and tungsten dia are you using?
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
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That's just a byproduct of MIG welding. Impurities in the weld, along with silica from the wire and other contaminates. They just float to the surface of the weld and are harmless.
Ok. I thought it looked heavier as from a flux core wire. My mig welds don’t have it. I’m also not starting and stopping to make it look like a tig weld.
Yeah that's just a by product of that style of weld which is pretty common. I'm using 75/25 argon/CO2. Hit it with a wire wheel for two seconds and it comes right off and everything is a nice shiny silver color. It's easy for me to do this technique of going forward then back a little and letting it fill in, it also seems to penetrate a little deeper since on this 1/8" material I've got the machine maxed out, it's just a little Lincoln ProMIG 140. If I do a constant travel speed the bead sometimes wanders up or down in the fillet and I'm just not as consistent. Still plenty strong for what I'm doing.
Tried my first actual Tig project. 1/8" plate into a sheet metal hole and also dealt with lots of shitty seam sealer and contamination fighting me despite cleaning the best I could.
Furick #14 Pyrex, 30CFH argon, 3/32" CK LaYZr. Full pedal was like 60 amps and I was pretty much floored the whole time, used filler in some places but others had enough overhanging sheet metal to just move the puddle along with that. Went better than I expected but still lots to learn. Also when the seam sealer starts coming out bad the whole arc turns bright red it's pretty wild...
I guess my question was a bit vauge. I'm not doubting if it's worth the money. I have the Furick #17 adapter kit and a BBW #16 pyrex cup in my Amazon cart. I'm just pretty new to welding as a whole and would like to know how it helps. I will be primarily welding mild steel, stainless steel, and hopefully aluminum all around 0.065 in thickness.
Yeah it just helps to "light up" your work area or if you're in tight spots you can look through the cup. It's nice but I have some ceramic ones as well.
That #16 is going to really shine when it comes to stainless. Mild steel you can move down to like a #10 or #12 no problem. I was using that big #14 because I was fighting lots of contamination and seam sealer. And for aluminum you cannot use those big cups on AC because it will go nuts on the pressed in diffuser. For aluminum most guys will use a regular old #5 cup, no gas lense. Furick makes the ally5 kit and that is exactly what that is except it's Pyrex instead of ceramic. Or there are some guys that will use a #8 gas lense furick pro cup since it doesn't use an additional diffuser and is safe for use on AC.
A bit of practice before I Tig welded the first cage tube to the shock tower landing assembly. Still need to mig the plate to the actual shock tower, that first tube had to go in before that though. Then doing one more tube from the shock tower to about the center of the dash bar.
Looks decent enough. Only thing you need to work on is getting a little more filler in to the puddle. You're a little underfilled in pic 1 & 2, but look pretty good in pic 3
Looks decent enough. Only thing you need to work on is getting a little more filler in to the puddle. You're a little underfilled in pic 1 & 2, but look pretty good in pic 3
Yeah I've gotten some similar feedback from experienced welders. I need to work on my filler rod technique and dab like 3 times as much as I normally do. The ridges are pretty far apart.
Yeah I've gotten some similar feedback from experienced welders. I need to work on my filler rod technique and dab like 3 times as much as I normally do. The ridges are pretty far apart.
the trick is to relax, dont run away with it as you can get undercut...
being able to see the puddle makes a massive difference, finding a shield that fits you & is clear makes it all work (as does wearing glasses if needed!)
I've been paid to practace for 30 years & still learning :-D
Yep exactly. I've got 10 years welding professionally. And the dip spacing isn't bad, just needs more filler. Like you're barely dipping the tip of the rod It could be your filler is undersized for the joint as well.
the trick is to relax, dont run away with it as you can get undercut...
being able to see the puddle makes a massive difference, finding a shield that fits you & is clear makes it all work (as does wearing glasses if needed!)
I've been paid to practace for 30 years & still learning :-D
Rich.
I want to echo the quality mask part again. Nice masks are worth every penny and make it a lot easier.
08-15-2020, 11:49 PM
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