The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)
#661
No, the course mapping is done automatically by the app as you drive. It's really simple to use. Turn it on while sitting in the grid -- once you exceed 15mph is starts recording/mapping -- once you stop it stops as well. Pretty much hands-free.
There's also Harry's Laptimer, TrackAddict laptimer + probably numerous others I don't even know about. The apps are inexpensive enough I'll probably try several before deciding which I like best. I've only used the CMS app so far.
There's also Harry's Laptimer, TrackAddict laptimer + probably numerous others I don't even know about. The apps are inexpensive enough I'll probably try several before deciding which I like best. I've only used the CMS app so far.
#664
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If it works and if there's interest, I would look into making a few more housings. But it would cost more than other more compact options out there. You can find remote turbo oil scavenge spur gear pumps on ebay for $130.
My pump next to the ebay scavenge pump and a BMW M5 (V10) oil transfer pump for the oil pan, also a tiny Gerotor pump, kinda like some fuel pumps.
My pump next to the ebay scavenge pump and a BMW M5 (V10) oil transfer pump for the oil pan, also a tiny Gerotor pump, kinda like some fuel pumps.
#667
Last few weeks or thread relevant work thats interesting, did some exhausts and another basic NA8 turbo setup/install/tune and another NA6 turbo setup which got posted out for owner install, same **** different week.
Bryans NB8C, brand new Volvo T5 turbo, 2.5" downpipe and exhaust, long runner low mount, Works Engineering carbon intake, kept the AFM for OEM looks, Full sized front mount, RX8 injectors, 180rwhp on 7.3PSI. Starting at low boost till he gets used to it.
Local guys S13, with extend bridge ported 13b and a GT42r. We did the downpipe, the side pipe, the hotside cooler pipe and turbo cut/weld/port job, the overflow tank and a few other bits.
Some of the fab for the posted NA6 kit, just a separated gases downpipe to suit a side mount log. I've done a few like this recently and Im happy with this design.
This maxed the RX8's at 235 btw.
Dann
Bryans NB8C, brand new Volvo T5 turbo, 2.5" downpipe and exhaust, long runner low mount, Works Engineering carbon intake, kept the AFM for OEM looks, Full sized front mount, RX8 injectors, 180rwhp on 7.3PSI. Starting at low boost till he gets used to it.
Local guys S13, with extend bridge ported 13b and a GT42r. We did the downpipe, the side pipe, the hotside cooler pipe and turbo cut/weld/port job, the overflow tank and a few other bits.
Some of the fab for the posted NA6 kit, just a separated gases downpipe to suit a side mount log. I've done a few like this recently and Im happy with this design.
This maxed the RX8's at 235 btw.
Dann
#671
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The blueprints called them a "bellcrank".
They are the rotation point that pulls pins in and out of alignment holes on seats so it can lock into place on the rails.
They are the rotation point that pulls pins in and out of alignment holes on seats so it can lock into place on the rails.
#676
...and as it sits this morning, now that the cement has cured.
I didn't go that route for a few reasons:
1) I'm dumb and stubborn
2) Given the humidity and proximity to the neighbor's sprinklers, I didn't want to be replacing wooden posts in 6 years. Each of the individual panels are held in with just 4 long wood screws. When the cedar warps, it'll be easy to take them out and redo them.
3) This part is visible from the street and I wanted something a little more...intimidating. The fence is just shy of 7.5 ft tall.
4) The rust & dark wood fits the style of the house
5) It gave me an excuse to weld
The large open area is going to be filled by a set of large double doors, done in a similar style. Maybe aluminium (excuse to buy a TIG machine)?
all in all, a gigantic pain in the ***, especially pounding through 2.5ft of limestone for each post hole. But I'm proud of it.
1) I'm dumb and stubborn
2) Given the humidity and proximity to the neighbor's sprinklers, I didn't want to be replacing wooden posts in 6 years. Each of the individual panels are held in with just 4 long wood screws. When the cedar warps, it'll be easy to take them out and redo them.
3) This part is visible from the street and I wanted something a little more...intimidating. The fence is just shy of 7.5 ft tall.
4) The rust & dark wood fits the style of the house
5) It gave me an excuse to weld
The large open area is going to be filled by a set of large double doors, done in a similar style. Maybe aluminium (excuse to buy a TIG machine)?
all in all, a gigantic pain in the ***, especially pounding through 2.5ft of limestone for each post hole. But I'm proud of it.
#677
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I would lag that single post to the house (try not to damage the stucco/EIFS) because even cemented in there is a lot of leverage with a door hinged on it and it might shift. Just an observation from doing many many building inspections.
Though if your confident you have enough bearing in the limestone it may not be a problem. Also TX vs Canada might be different with no freeze-thaw cycles.
Though if your confident you have enough bearing in the limestone it may not be a problem. Also TX vs Canada might be different with no freeze-thaw cycles.
#678
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I would lag that single post to the house (try not to damage the stucco/EIFS) because even cemented in there is a lot of leverage with a door hinged on it and it might shift. Just an observation from doing many many building inspections.
Though if your confident you have enough bearing in the limestone it may not be a problem. Also TX vs Canada might be different with no freeze-thaw cycles.
Though if your confident you have enough bearing in the limestone it may not be a problem. Also TX vs Canada might be different with no freeze-thaw cycles.
re read
That is a bit of weight.
#679
I would lag that single post to the house (try not to damage the stucco/EIFS) because even cemented in there is a lot of leverage with a door hinged on it and it might shift. Just an observation from doing many many building inspections.
Though if your confident you have enough bearing in the limestone it may not be a problem. Also TX vs Canada might be different with no freeze-thaw cycles.
Though if your confident you have enough bearing in the limestone it may not be a problem. Also TX vs Canada might be different with no freeze-thaw cycles.
#680
I estimate that the fence weighs 400lbs+. I'm not super concerned about the left gate shifting. The right one however, gives me reason to believe that 1" steel square tubing might not be the way to go. Aluminium looks more and more promising.
Reading my mind. An arch is what I was planning, just not sure how to do that on the cheap. This entire thing was done with a tape measure, an angle grinder, miter saw, and my stick welder. Oh and a jackhammer to get through the limestone.
Any ideas on how to roll thick guage metal into a beautiful arch in my garage with hand tools?
Another alternative would be to put a header or arch or something to connect the tops of the posts that will be carrying the weight of the doors. Since it looks like you plan on keeping the house a while, you'll definitely want to do something to keep the doors from moving. That's a lot of leverage, even with concrete footings.
Any ideas on how to roll thick guage metal into a beautiful arch in my garage with hand tools?