shlammed

iTrader: (8)

visually inspect your welds sounds like a good option to me.

If you think you have a hole, you should probably repair it anyways.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Maybe a pair of hose clamps, and a tire inner tube?



I was going to try this, with a wheelbarrow tube. Probably just center the valve on one end, and cap the other end with cut up tube. I was even considering sandwiching it between a V-band where I could. Same for my IC plumbing, since I'm doing it in steel now too.

I suck at welding, but it looks like my method of cranking up the heat and wire speed and making a bunch of small hot, stacked spots is working. Looks to be getting pretty deep, doesn't even look that terrible.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a plan!

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Surprised no one mentioned the condom method. Am I the only one who heard of this?

Anyway, you take a condom, and place it over the end of the tailpipe. Using your hand and an air nozzle, you cup your hand over the open (manifold) end, and try to inflate the condom. If you can't blow it off in one quick burst, you have leaks large enough to have to fix.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

this is how i do leak down tests on my 2 strokes

these are $12 at home depot racing(natural gas line leak down test guage). schrader on one end, female 3/4" NPT on the other. buy a 3/4" NPT to "size of your choice" reducer, and attach with a silicone coupling or whatever.


then plug the other end with one of these (if you can find one big enough for the piping diameter you are using)

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Rubber pipe cap from home Depot and a hose clamp on each end. Schrader valve that has a nut on either side of the rubber cap. Pressure to whatever almost blows the cap off. Use a bike pump to be safe. Soapy water in a squirt bottle to spray areas of concern. Cheap. Easy. Effective.