Thanks bros.

Jig means I will be making a few more of them.


Going to set something up to go into production on some EFR turbos. #efrturbokit

 

Finished manifold and down pipe with wastegate recirculation pictures.


HellaFab Vband Bottom Mount by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFab Vband Bottom Mount by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFab Vband Bottom Mount by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFab Vband Bottom Mount by HellaFab, on Flickr

 

Custom flanges for some kits Im building.



HELLAFAB custom B6 flange for Miata EFR turbo kits by HellaFab, on Flickr


So happy I made the jump to custom flanges. They fit a lot nicer because I can cut them more precise compared to shelf options.

 

how about an o2 housing with a wastegate dump for the mazdaspeed OEM turbo setup ????

 

We'll see how long the studs last on this with the hole fit so close. You can get away with that closeness on one maybe 2 studs right next to each other but I have a feel its going to destroy the outermost ones when it heats up.

 

It is the same as the stock header. The flanges you buy from say turboflanges.com or similar have excessive hole sizes... the bolt is 9mm od, the flanges give are 11.5mm id.

This allows a good fit without being sloppy like the 14mm holes on some other flanges.

 

That's not something I'm going into production on.

If you want one, I will need a stock part to jig to build you a one off elbow.


I am jigging EFR turbo manifolds to offer as a kit, for both 1.6 and 1.8... but I don't want to get into details until the time when Im a paid advertiser (which I have been in discussions with Jason A IB about. Im just developing and perfecting the parts and designing a website first)

 

The stock flange isnt stainless though. A 304 stainless flange at turbo temperatures is going to grow almost 1/4" in length.

 

The flange isn't going to grow that much.

The head and turbo flanges don't get to EGT temps, the head flange especially. its bolted to the engine that is heat controlled.


Thanks for the concern, but real life works better than textbooks. The slightly tighter bolt holes keep you from needing to pin the flange to keep proper port alignment and give subsequently better performance.

 

How dare you talk like that to Leafy!?!

He's the expert on almost everything, what the eff do you know anyway?

 

I would hardly consider Maximum Boost a text book (source for reason stainless flanges have big holes and will shear off bolts if the holes are too tight).

 

Let's see... It's a book... of text...

 

Leafy, bro.

They aren't that tight, but they are tighter than others avaliable from people who don't actually own a miata, but drew a flange based off of a gasket.

😊

 

Lol. Taparep

 

I managed to get a good start on the 1.6 B6 EFR manifold today.


HellaFabrication 1.6L EFR Manifold Prototype by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFabrication 1.6L EFR Manifold Prototype by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFabrication 1.6L EFR Manifold Prototype by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFabrication 1.6L EFR Manifold Prototype by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFabrication 1.6L EFR Manifold Prototype by HellaFab, on Flickr


These turbos are big with their IWG actuator, but there is a bit more than half inch to the frame rail for clearance, which is more than enough to account for engine rotation, and they fit with a flipped water neck so there isn't a crazy solution needed that way.

The flanges are also threaded for people who want to upgrade to the Trackspeed Inconel stud.

 

Looks great.
Will this clear a LHD steering column though

 

undoubtedly!

I have mocked up an oversized piece of square stock ( you can see it in the first picture) to the location of a LHD steering rack. There is 3 or 4 inches of clearance. I didn't measure exact clearance because its really not a constricting area. the turbo sits a little higher compared to something like an absurdflow manifold to allow for easier oil drain back. This gives you a bit more steering clearance.

The only tight part of this setup is the IWG actuator to the frame rail, on both RHD and LHD cars.

 

I made my flange holes close. Fit on my mockup weld fixture '99 head, my '94 head, but not Lars' head.

 

It should, very very close to the actual location of the turbo on my car.

 

All of my flanges I used and sold were 304 stainless 1/2 inch thick, and I used tight holes that look similar in size to yours. They worked great as you have said. No issues from me or anyone else using them related to stud interference.