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Old 07-30-2014, 04:49 PM   #61
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Thanks bros.

Jig means I will be making a few more of them.


Going to set something up to go into production on some EFR turbos. #efrturbokit
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:50 PM   #62
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Finished manifold and down pipe with wastegate recirculation pictures.


HellaFab Vband Bottom Mount by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFab Vband Bottom Mount by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFab Vband Bottom Mount by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFab Vband Bottom Mount by HellaFab, on Flickr
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:12 PM   #63
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Custom flanges for some kits Im building.



HELLAFAB custom B6 flange for Miata EFR turbo kits by HellaFab, on Flickr


So happy I made the jump to custom flanges. They fit a lot nicer because I can cut them more precise compared to shelf options.
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:19 PM   #64
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how about an o2 housing with a wastegate dump for the mazdaspeed OEM turbo setup ????
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:20 PM   #65
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We'll see how long the studs last on this with the hole fit so close. You can get away with that closeness on one maybe 2 studs right next to each other but I have a feel its going to destroy the outermost ones when it heats up.
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:23 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
We'll see how long the studs last on this with the hole fit so close. You can get away with that closeness on one maybe 2 studs right next to each other but I have a feel its going to destroy the outermost ones when it heats up.
It is the same as the stock header. The flanges you buy from say turboflanges.com or similar have excessive hole sizes... the bolt is 9mm od, the flanges give are 11.5mm id.

This allows a good fit without being sloppy like the 14mm holes on some other flanges.
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:28 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greddygalant View Post
how about an o2 housing with a wastegate dump for the mazdaspeed OEM turbo setup ????
That's not something I'm going into production on.

If you want one, I will need a stock part to jig to build you a one off elbow.


I am jigging EFR turbo manifolds to offer as a kit, for both 1.6 and 1.8... but I don't want to get into details until the time when Im a paid advertiser (which I have been in discussions with Jason A IB about. Im just developing and perfecting the parts and designing a website first)
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:29 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
It is the same as the stock header. The flanges you buy from say turboflanges.com or similar have excessive hole sizes... the bolt is 9mm od, the flanges give are 11.5mm id.

This allows a good fit without being sloppy like the 14mm holes on some other flanges.
The stock flange isnt stainless though. A 304 stainless flange at turbo temperatures is going to grow almost 1/4" in length.
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:57 PM   #69
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The flange isn't going to grow that much.

The head and turbo flanges don't get to EGT temps, the head flange especially. its bolted to the engine that is heat controlled.


Thanks for the concern, but real life works better than textbooks. The slightly tighter bolt holes keep you from needing to pin the flange to keep proper port alignment and give subsequently better performance.
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:06 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
Thanks for the concern, but real life works better than textbooks.

How dare you talk like that to Leafy!?!

He's the expert on almost everything, what the eff do you know anyway?
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Old 08-29-2014, 10:57 PM   #71
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I would hardly consider Maximum Boost a text book (source for reason stainless flanges have big holes and will shear off bolts if the holes are too tight).
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Old 08-30-2014, 12:27 AM   #72
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Let's see... It's a book... of text...
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:50 PM   #73
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Leafy, bro.

They aren't that tight, but they are tighter than others avaliable from people who don't actually own a miata, but drew a flange based off of a gasket.

😊
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:54 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbofan View Post
Let's see... It's a book... of text...
Lol. Taparep
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:04 PM   #75
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I managed to get a good start on the 1.6 B6 EFR manifold today.


HellaFabrication 1.6L EFR Manifold Prototype by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFabrication 1.6L EFR Manifold Prototype by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFabrication 1.6L EFR Manifold Prototype by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFabrication 1.6L EFR Manifold Prototype by HellaFab, on Flickr


HellaFabrication 1.6L EFR Manifold Prototype by HellaFab, on Flickr


These turbos are big with their IWG actuator, but there is a bit more than half inch to the frame rail for clearance, which is more than enough to account for engine rotation, and they fit with a flipped water neck so there isn't a crazy solution needed that way.

The flanges are also threaded for people who want to upgrade to the Trackspeed Inconel stud.
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:09 PM   #76
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Looks great.
Will this clear a LHD steering column though
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:13 PM   #77
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undoubtedly!

I have mocked up an oversized piece of square stock ( you can see it in the first picture) to the location of a LHD steering rack. There is 3 or 4 inches of clearance. I didn't measure exact clearance because its really not a constricting area. the turbo sits a little higher compared to something like an absurdflow manifold to allow for easier oil drain back. This gives you a bit more steering clearance.

The only tight part of this setup is the IWG actuator to the frame rail, on both RHD and LHD cars.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:26 AM   #78
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I made my flange holes close. Fit on my mockup weld fixture '99 head, my '94 head, but not Lars' head.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:35 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
Looks great.
Will this clear a LHD steering column though
It should, very very close to the actual location of the turbo on my car.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:59 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
The flange isn't going to grow that much.

The head and turbo flanges don't get to EGT temps, the head flange especially. its bolted to the engine that is heat controlled.


Thanks for the concern, but real life works better than textbooks. The slightly tighter bolt holes keep you from needing to pin the flange to keep proper port alignment and give subsequently better performance.
All of my flanges I used and sold were 304 stainless 1/2 inch thick, and I used tight holes that look similar in size to yours. They worked great as you have said. No issues from me or anyone else using them related to stud interference.
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