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Old 05-22-2008, 06:30 PM   #21
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this will be a $10K+ swap, had one planned for my 240sx then business at work got slow
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:37 PM   #22
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Pretty sweet, now we know why BEGi madfe a rear mount turbo kit

Keith, what Diff were you talking about?
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kotomile View Post
Why not? As far as I'm aware (and I'm no expert) you can't put an SUV or truck engine in a car and you can't use an older engine than the car. So say a '93 Miata with a '94 'Vette engine would be ok by those rules. There's probably one or two laws I'm not privy to though.
93 miata has to pass a sniff test only, doesnt it?

My 97 is obd2, it has to be plugged into the machine. CEL == fail.
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:13 AM   #24
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I'm doing the swap in an '01 and have to pass the OBDII port test. Why wouldn't it? It's a motor out of (for me) and '01+ vehicle that had to pass emissions. The port will show all the CELs I want it to. HPtuners is great software as is EFIlive. Both are flash programs for the LS series motors from '98 up and provide complete control over CELs.

As for cost, it is more than most of you cheap young bastards can afford without going into credit card debt.

About 4K for the subframe and driveline kit. Another $200 for the clutch hydraulics.

An LS1 goes for around anywhere from $1500-3K depending on the mileage. T56s are in the $1500 range because the can handle pretty much anything you throw at them and are the same size as the Miata trans (though they probably weigh a good 50 lbs more)

I paide $1500 for a freshly built T56 and $2100 for re-ringed and re-bearinged LS6 out of an '01 Z06 'vette. I also had to buy a new intake and TB, plus a $200 LS2 water pump. I had bought a high mileage LS1 w/ PCM and wiring harness for $1K but it's very pricey to get an LS motor new rings and bearings so I sold all that crap and found the latest deal. I was able to sell the old motor minus the PCM and harness for $1K so I pretty much got the harness for free.

I added an LS6 intake for another $350 since my new motor isn't coming with one. Plus odds and ends TB, new plugs and wires, gaskets, various sensors, etc. probably set me back another $300. Then there was the F-body oil pan, baffle and pickup and getting it cut and welded which is another $400.

Clutch: I'm using an used (5k miles) LS7 setup I got for $250 which includes the flywheel, PP, and disk, plus the slave cylinder.

CTS diff: About $700 shipped from the best GM parts wholesaler (which aint gmpartsdirect) They're available in many different ratios. V8roadsters recommended 3.42 for me.

PCM reprogram was only $85 for a mail order tune plus free tweaks from a respected mail order tuner.

Has anyone added all this **** up?

I did sell the motor, FM II turbo kit, rear end, trans, Motec ECU, full turboback exhaust, etc for probably $5K or so, so all in all it won't be a total money pit.

You can check out pics and progress at m.net in the conversion section. Just look for my thread about v8roadsters progress.

Frank
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:15 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
93 miata has to pass a sniff test only, doesnt it?

My 97 is obd2, it has to be plugged into the machine. CEL == fail.
Again,
The fully flashable, tunable, programmable GM PCMs are way better than the Miata ECU. Software runs about $600 and allows you total control over the stock PCM including CELs.

Frank
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:19 AM   #26
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rockers and push rods oh my
30 mpg out of a ~350 whp car? Easy. I'm doing this for the economics.

$300 for a cam + $400 for a custom tune for an added 80 whp trumps anything you can come up with on the B6 or BP aside from a 100 shot of NOS which the LS motors take nicely too also.

Hell you can buy replacement parts at 7-Eleven and Walmart for your LSX motor.


Frank
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:04 PM   #27
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My friend Tim has one here in VA done for years makes 430 whp and is a beast. He built it all himself, no kit.

Here some pics. its awesome.


http://www.ls1miata.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=25
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Old 05-23-2008, 05:08 PM   #28
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Keith, what Diff were you talking about?
The diff is the one from the CTS. I'm not as solid on the details there as I should be, it's still fairly new stuff to me.
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Old 05-23-2008, 05:16 PM   #29
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Frank, if you average 30mpg in that car after it's put together, then you probably should've bought a prius. Thanks for the subtotals.
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Old 05-23-2008, 05:19 PM   #30
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I don't know about city, but 30mpg highway or mostly highway shouldn't be tough to do. Vettes and the like get terrific highway economy.
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Old 05-23-2008, 05:33 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Frank, if you average 30mpg in that car after it's put together, then you probably should've bought a prius. Thanks for the subtotals.
A lot of my driving will be golf outings (long freeway drives) so there won't be too much tire smoke though I'm sure the first set of RA1s in the rear won't last too long.

Frank
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Old 05-27-2008, 02:19 PM   #32
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Check this out, Friends Miata LS1 vs TT 300z 23psi

91 300ZX TT vs LS1 Miata
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Old 05-27-2008, 02:39 PM   #33
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Wow that's amazingly close. But like Frank said... not much the Miata (assuming it's a stock engine) would have to do to add power.
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Old 05-27-2008, 03:07 PM   #34
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needs more boost.
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Old 05-28-2008, 08:45 AM   #35
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needs more boost.
Needs a bigger cam. Oops, which car are you talking about?

Frank
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:50 AM   #36
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I didn't realize that was turbo tacoma - so it IS a modded LS.
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:55 AM   #37
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Yeah, he's got 400+, so a bigger cam, better heads and valve springs and a tune.

Frank
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:13 AM   #38
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You guys know Tim?
Yea its a 383 stroker with cam.
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:39 AM   #39
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Know him as in I've seen his sig and videos at M.net and I hang out in the Conversion forum. Plus I know what it takes to get an LSX to low 400s. Forgot about the stroker.

Frank
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:45 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
The diff is the one from the CTS. I'm not as solid on the details there as I should be, it's still fairly new stuff to me.
This is a bad move. The CTS rear like to grenade. They typically do not last at the drag strip. You guys would be much better off with a ford IRS rear end...and they're easier to get too.
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