Cat outta the bag
05-22-2008, 10:09 PM
#23
Why not? As far as I'm aware (and I'm no expert) you can't put an SUV or truck engine in a car and you can't use an older engine than the car. So say a '93 Miata with a '94 'Vette engine would be ok by those rules. There's probably one or two laws I'm not privy to though.
My 97 is obd2, it has to be plugged into the machine. CEL == fail.
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05-23-2008, 12:13 AM
#24
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I'm doing the swap in an '01 and have to pass the OBDII port test. Why wouldn't it? It's a motor out of (for me) and '01+ vehicle that had to pass emissions. The port will show all the CELs I want it to. 
HPtuners is great software as is EFIlive. Both are flash programs for the LS series motors from '98 up and provide complete control over CELs.
As for cost, it is more than most of you cheap young bastards can afford without going into credit card debt.
About 4K for the subframe and driveline kit. Another $200 for the clutch hydraulics.
An LS1 goes for around anywhere from $1500-3K depending on the mileage. T56s are in the $1500 range because the can handle pretty much anything you throw at them and are the same size as the Miata trans (though they probably weigh a good 50 lbs more)
I paide $1500 for a freshly built T56 and $2100 for re-ringed and re-bearinged LS6 out of an '01 Z06 'vette. I also had to buy a new intake and TB, plus a $200 LS2 water pump. I had bought a high mileage LS1 w/ PCM and wiring harness for $1K but it's very pricey to get an LS motor new rings and bearings so I sold all that crap and found the latest deal. I was able to sell the old motor minus the PCM and harness for $1K so I pretty much got the harness for free.
I added an LS6 intake for another $350 since my new motor isn't coming with one. Plus odds and ends TB, new plugs and wires, gaskets, various sensors, etc. probably set me back another $300. Then there was the F-body oil pan, baffle and pickup and getting it cut and welded which is another $400.
Clutch: I'm using an used (5k miles) LS7 setup I got for $250 which includes the flywheel, PP, and disk, plus the slave cylinder.
CTS diff: About $700 shipped from the best GM parts wholesaler (which aint gmpartsdirect) They're available in many different ratios. V8roadsters recommended 3.42 for me.
PCM reprogram was only $85 for a mail order tune plus free tweaks from a respected mail order tuner.
Has anyone added all this **** up?
I did sell the motor, FM II turbo kit, rear end, trans, Motec ECU, full turboback exhaust, etc for probably $5K or so, so all in all it won't be a total money pit.
You can check out pics and progress at m.net in the conversion section. Just look for my thread about v8roadsters progress.
Frank
HPtuners is great software as is EFIlive. Both are flash programs for the LS series motors from '98 up and provide complete control over CELs.As for cost, it is more than most of you cheap young bastards can afford without going into credit card debt.
About 4K for the subframe and driveline kit. Another $200 for the clutch hydraulics.
An LS1 goes for around anywhere from $1500-3K depending on the mileage. T56s are in the $1500 range because the can handle pretty much anything you throw at them and are the same size as the Miata trans (though they probably weigh a good 50 lbs more)
I paide $1500 for a freshly built T56 and $2100 for re-ringed and re-bearinged LS6 out of an '01 Z06 'vette. I also had to buy a new intake and TB, plus a $200 LS2 water pump. I had bought a high mileage LS1 w/ PCM and wiring harness for $1K but it's very pricey to get an LS motor new rings and bearings so I sold all that crap and found the latest deal. I was able to sell the old motor minus the PCM and harness for $1K so I pretty much got the harness for free.
I added an LS6 intake for another $350 since my new motor isn't coming with one. Plus odds and ends TB, new plugs and wires, gaskets, various sensors, etc. probably set me back another $300. Then there was the F-body oil pan, baffle and pickup and getting it cut and welded which is another $400.
Clutch: I'm using an used (5k miles) LS7 setup I got for $250 which includes the flywheel, PP, and disk, plus the slave cylinder.
CTS diff: About $700 shipped from the best GM parts wholesaler (which aint gmpartsdirect) They're available in many different ratios. V8roadsters recommended 3.42 for me.
PCM reprogram was only $85 for a mail order tune plus free tweaks from a respected mail order tuner.
Has anyone added all this **** up?
I did sell the motor, FM II turbo kit, rear end, trans, Motec ECU, full turboback exhaust, etc for probably $5K or so, so all in all it won't be a total money pit.
You can check out pics and progress at m.net in the conversion section. Just look for my thread about v8roadsters progress.
Frank
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05-23-2008, 12:15 AM
#25
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The fully flashable, tunable, programmable GM PCMs are way better than the Miata ECU. Software runs about $600 and allows you total control over the stock PCM including CELs.
Frank
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05-23-2008, 12:19 AM
#26
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30 mpg out of a ~350 whp car? Easy. I'm doing this for the economics.
$300 for a cam + $400 for a custom tune for an added 80 whp trumps anything you can come up with on the B6 or BP aside from a 100 shot of NOS which the LS motors take nicely too also.
Hell you can buy replacement parts at 7-Eleven and Walmart for your LSX motor.
Frank
I'm doing this for the economics. $300 for a cam + $400 for a custom tune for an added 80 whp trumps anything you can come up with on the B6 or BP aside from a 100 shot of NOS which the LS motors take nicely too also.
Hell you can buy replacement parts at 7-Eleven and Walmart for your LSX motor.
Frank
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05-23-2008, 11:04 AM
#27
My friend Tim has one here in VA done for years makes 430 whp and is a beast. He built it all himself, no kit.
Here some pics. its awesome.
http://www.ls1miata.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=25
Here some pics. its awesome.
http://www.ls1miata.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=25
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05-23-2008, 04:33 PM
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Frank
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05-28-2008, 10:39 AM
#39
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Know him as in I've seen his sig and videos at M.net and I hang out in the Conversion forum. Plus I know what it takes to get an LSX to low 400s. Forgot about the stroker.
Frank
Frank
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05-28-2008, 10:45 AM
#40
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This is a bad move. The CTS rear like to grenade. They typically do not last at the drag strip. You guys would be much better off with a ford IRS rear end...and they're easier to get too.
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