The new "definitive catch can" thread
#121
Retired Mech Design Engr
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Unless the rings are bad, running both sides to a VTA catch can should work with:
Drilled out PVC or other open elbow on intake side.
No other special things done. (Un-Modified valve cover)
Plug the PVC port on the intake manifold.
That has been working fine for me at similar situation. There is some occasion odor at idle after a hard run as nothing is going into the intake to burn the fumes.
Picture Here
I suspect that some oil goes into the lines during tight turns, but it does not make it to the can and, I guess, flows back into the valve area.
DNM
Drilled out PVC or other open elbow on intake side.
No other special things done. (Un-Modified valve cover)
Plug the PVC port on the intake manifold.
That has been working fine for me at similar situation. There is some occasion odor at idle after a hard run as nothing is going into the intake to burn the fumes.
Picture Here
I suspect that some oil goes into the lines during tight turns, but it does not make it to the can and, I guess, flows back into the valve area.
DNM
#122
I have a simple catch can on a 1.8VVT with TD04 and only 250hp and 7,000rpm limit. Very little ever in the 0.4L catch can until yesterday when it was full of what looked like nothing but oil after a full track day. Changes since the previous day include:
Car was used very hard all day by three drivers with little rest between session
The track has a looooong tightening right hander
Track is clockwise
There's a 120mph straight
The car now has better brakes and stickier tyres
Will any of the above contribute to the 0.4L or is there now too much engine wear?
Car was used very hard all day by three drivers with little rest between session
The track has a looooong tightening right hander
Track is clockwise
There's a 120mph straight
The car now has better brakes and stickier tyres
Will any of the above contribute to the 0.4L or is there now too much engine wear?
#123
How is it plumbed? My exhaust side catch can (12an outlet and enlarged internal passage) only smells of fumes after a track day but the intake side can (normal PCV layout and hose with a can in the middle) fills like no tomorrow in one session and gets small quantity of pure oil on the street, I even tried copper scrubbers etc to baffle more. I just cap the intake side for track days as Savington has previously suggested.
#130
Just wanted to drop in with an additional data point to the discussion. Nothing new, just sharing what seems to have worked for me.
I initially must've misunderstood what I read here once upon a time and capped the cold side port, opened the hot side port and installed and AN-8 fitting and hose. I drove to the capital to get an alignment, a 100km round trip and my small catch can was overflowing. I was missing maybe 500ml of oil. it was not pretty, oil was actually just sputtering out of the port if I removed the hose.
So today I opened up the intake side again, installed an AN-8 bung and running both to a vented catch can. Resealed the plates on the underside, opened up the channel between chambers. Only got it up to temp and did a couple of pulls since it's late but there is absolutely nothing in the can. Not the greatest amount of data but it's looking way better than the sputtering mess I had yesterday.
I initially must've misunderstood what I read here once upon a time and capped the cold side port, opened the hot side port and installed and AN-8 fitting and hose. I drove to the capital to get an alignment, a 100km round trip and my small catch can was overflowing. I was missing maybe 500ml of oil. it was not pretty, oil was actually just sputtering out of the port if I removed the hose.
So today I opened up the intake side again, installed an AN-8 bung and running both to a vented catch can. Resealed the plates on the underside, opened up the channel between chambers. Only got it up to temp and did a couple of pulls since it's late but there is absolutely nothing in the can. Not the greatest amount of data but it's looking way better than the sputtering mess I had yesterday.
#132
I'm running a single sealed Moroso catch can connected between the intake manifold and PCV. I'm running a Ford 1.8 cover and have a breather tube connected to my turbo inlet pipe. I rarely get excessive oil buildup inside the can, usually just a small amount even after aggressive driving over long periods of time. I also don't have irregular build up in the inlet pipe.
Valve cover is unmodified. I know the setup doesn't look great now, but I wanted to install a better pipe/hose between the VC and inlet. What size AN fittings should be used with the valve cover and if I wanted shorter routing between the VC and inlet, where is a good spot to tap into on the cover? Is the normal outlet location on a Miata within the same baffle area on the Ford cover? Or because the Ford cover has the port on the rear of it does it travel through more baffling before it goes out of the cover?
Valve cover is unmodified. I know the setup doesn't look great now, but I wanted to install a better pipe/hose between the VC and inlet. What size AN fittings should be used with the valve cover and if I wanted shorter routing between the VC and inlet, where is a good spot to tap into on the cover? Is the normal outlet location on a Miata within the same baffle area on the Ford cover? Or because the Ford cover has the port on the rear of it does it travel through more baffling before it goes out of the cover?
#136
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I'll take a stab at it given my understanding.
When under vacum you now have a vacum leak because the pcv is pulling crank case pressure but the crank case is vented to atmosphere by the hot side catch can that's vented to atmosphere. Under boost the pcv valave is closed so crank case pressure is forced thru the catch can witch is fine but the line is small and may not be able to evacuate enough pressure depending on how bad the blow by is.
You could remove the filter on the catch can and run a line to the turbo inlet pipe and leave pcv as is.
The other option would be vta only and you could cap the cold side completely but again the hot side hose needs to be bigger. Or you can get a vta can with 2 inlets and run the colt side to the can as well and just cap the pcv inlet at the intake manifold however a lot of people have issues with oil filling the can when running the cold side to a can.
All of this assumes you also enlarge the ports on the internal baffles on the valve cover.
Someone please advise if I'm wrong, this is my understanding but don't want to give bad info.
When under vacum you now have a vacum leak because the pcv is pulling crank case pressure but the crank case is vented to atmosphere by the hot side catch can that's vented to atmosphere. Under boost the pcv valave is closed so crank case pressure is forced thru the catch can witch is fine but the line is small and may not be able to evacuate enough pressure depending on how bad the blow by is.
You could remove the filter on the catch can and run a line to the turbo inlet pipe and leave pcv as is.
The other option would be vta only and you could cap the cold side completely but again the hot side hose needs to be bigger. Or you can get a vta can with 2 inlets and run the colt side to the can as well and just cap the pcv inlet at the intake manifold however a lot of people have issues with oil filling the can when running the cold side to a can.
All of this assumes you also enlarge the ports on the internal baffles on the valve cover.
Someone please advise if I'm wrong, this is my understanding but don't want to give bad info.
#137
Nothing 'frightening' to me, but turbo blankets don't get a good wrap around here. I'd run a bigger catchcan, and if I ran a small one max the available volume by putting that VTA filter vertical. I'd do all the modz to the VC venting and run large diameter hose to said bigger catchcan located closer to the VC outlet (you may have done some of these already). Looks like you have a low point in that long hose, where moisture can condense - harder to shift fluid than vapour. 'P' clamps are your friend, lose the cable ties where you can. Short hose better than long hose. Not a big deal, but I'd shorten and/or realign the long bolt on the TB clamp so it doesn't rub the hose. That coolant overflow routing (i did the same) isn't being obstructed at the radiator bracket - your hose looks thicker than mine?
Overall, it looks like the engine bay was put together by a first-timer, or someone on a very tight budget, or someone who just wasn't thinking ahead. You run with a pretty experienced and capable crowd down there, any feedback from them?
Overall, it looks like the engine bay was put together by a first-timer, or someone on a very tight budget, or someone who just wasn't thinking ahead. You run with a pretty experienced and capable crowd down there, any feedback from them?
#139
Retired Mech Design Engr
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DNM