$40 Paint Job
12-06-2006, 05:10 PM
#61
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Waiting two weeks before buffing should be fine. Just make sure that you only use a swirl remover and a polish on the car. Don't use a sealant!!! Any sealant (either a wax or a synthetic sealant) will literally seal the paint and the paint then won't be able to out-gas and harden properly.
ty for the help
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12-06-2006, 06:14 PM
#63
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Go to www.autopia.org and click on the "Learning" button at the top and then download the e-book on detailing. That book is like the Detailer's Bible.
Basically any 'good' polish range will be fine for what you need. I have a number of different polishing pads. Everything from a Cutting pad down to a Finessing pad. I start with the cutting pad and Poorboy's SSR3 and then work my way down to a fine polish with a finishing pad (I only use the finessing pad with a sealant). I use 2 of each pad as the polishing will give a huge amount of paint pickup to the pad. I use the first pad for the first section, then soak that pad in the cleaning solution while I use the second pad for the next section. Then I alternate between pads and always use a clean pad for each section.
Basically any 'good' polish range will be fine for what you need. I have a number of different polishing pads. Everything from a Cutting pad down to a Finessing pad. I start with the cutting pad and Poorboy's SSR3 and then work my way down to a fine polish with a finishing pad (I only use the finessing pad with a sealant). I use 2 of each pad as the polishing will give a huge amount of paint pickup to the pad. I use the first pad for the first section, then soak that pad in the cleaning solution while I use the second pad for the next section. Then I alternate between pads and always use a clean pad for each section.
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12-07-2006, 09:04 PM
#66
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heres how to get the final coat to go on a lot smoother:
-mix some mineral spirits into the brightside. I think i ended up with a mix of only 10% mineral spirits, but it seemed to help smooth the paint out a lot better.
-put the final coat on in <50 degree weather. When i put my final coat on, i applied it in a 42 degree garage. I guess it gave the paint more time to settle and level...
-mix some mineral spirits into the brightside. I think i ended up with a mix of only 10% mineral spirits, but it seemed to help smooth the paint out a lot better.
-put the final coat on in <50 degree weather. When i put my final coat on, i applied it in a 42 degree garage. I guess it gave the paint more time to settle and level...
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12-08-2006, 04:53 PM
#75
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Mate, that miata of yours is looking beautiful!!!
I do a lot of reading on different detailing sites and your car already looks like it has a factory paint job. Based on the results the detailers are able to achieve on the cars that they work on, you should be able to get your car's paint looking perfect after you do your final wet-sand and polishing.
And achieving that for less than $100 is priceless!!!
I do a lot of reading on different detailing sites and your car already looks like it has a factory paint job. Based on the results the detailers are able to achieve on the cars that they work on, you should be able to get your car's paint looking perfect after you do your final wet-sand and polishing.
And achieving that for less than $100 is priceless!!!
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12-13-2006, 04:10 PM
#80
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Yep, I did the door jams. I took the doors off my car for the Brightside job which made them a lot easier to paint. I also grabbed a spray can of gloss black that I had lying around and sprayed paint as far up behind the front fenders as I could. That stops the streak of red that was visible through the panel gap between the doors and the front fenders.
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