1.8 swap a lil twist
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1.8 swap a lil twist
So I just swapped in my NB 1.8 and am using the crank and cam sensors that came on it (replaced cam position sensor) and am getting no spark while cranking and a nice red box "NOT RPM SYNCED" in tuner studio. Here's the twist, I got spark using the test mode, but none while cranking?? It's a 1990 chassis and a 1999 engine and a brain built MS3x. Anyone run into this?
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EDIT: zero crank reading, wack cam reading
Last edited by btill115; Feb 21, 2018 at 11:27 AM.
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Tested my voltage today, 5v on signal and 12v on constant power. Although, that was with a jumper pack (11.98-99v) but before connecting it was 11.6v. Would a dead battery with a jumper pack be bad?
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Been trying to communicate with Brain for several days now, he's the one who built my MS3. Haven't got any response and have been stuck without my DD. I will read a thread I saw yesterday by him about turning the pots to see if that works.
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Cool, you are definitely getting somewhere.
The red lines at the bottom are sync errors. You are getting signals that the ecu is not anticipating. I am not sure if after "x" amounts of errors if it quits trying to do the sync and you have to cycle the key again.
But if turning the pots helped, I would keep adjusting them until you get a consistent signal and not just from the crank but also cam. Try one less turn ccw or one more turn ccw on each and spin her over. Just do one adjustment at a time and datalog to look for a change. Obviously you are looking for no red lines.
I wish I were more help but I don't have MS3x. My MS3 pro doesn't have adjustable pots so I have never had to mess with them . I have had to add pull up resistors to the pro and a diypnp I built to get it to see the signals correctly which is essentially the same thing as you turning the adjustment so I understand what you are going through.
The red lines at the bottom are sync errors. You are getting signals that the ecu is not anticipating. I am not sure if after "x" amounts of errors if it quits trying to do the sync and you have to cycle the key again.
But if turning the pots helped, I would keep adjusting them until you get a consistent signal and not just from the crank but also cam. Try one less turn ccw or one more turn ccw on each and spin her over. Just do one adjustment at a time and datalog to look for a change. Obviously you are looking for no red lines.
I wish I were more help but I don't have MS3x. My MS3 pro doesn't have adjustable pots so I have never had to mess with them . I have had to add pull up resistors to the pro and a diypnp I built to get it to see the signals correctly which is essentially the same thing as you turning the adjustment so I understand what you are going through.
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Cool, you are definitely getting somewhere.
The red lines at the bottom are sync errors. You are getting signals that the ecu is not anticipating. I am not sure if after "x" amounts of errors if it quits trying to do the sync and you have to cycle the key again.
But if turning the pots helped, I would keep adjusting them until you get a consistent signal and not just from the crank but also cam. Try one less turn ccw or one more turn ccw on each and spin her over. Just do one adjustment at a time and datalog to look for a change. Obviously you are looking for no red lines.
I wish I were more help but I don't have MS3x. My MS3 pro doesn't have adjustable pots so I have never had to mess with them . I have had to add pull up resistors to the pro and a diypnp I built to get it to see the signals correctly which is essentially the same thing as you turning the adjustment so I understand what you are going through.
The red lines at the bottom are sync errors. You are getting signals that the ecu is not anticipating. I am not sure if after "x" amounts of errors if it quits trying to do the sync and you have to cycle the key again.
But if turning the pots helped, I would keep adjusting them until you get a consistent signal and not just from the crank but also cam. Try one less turn ccw or one more turn ccw on each and spin her over. Just do one adjustment at a time and datalog to look for a change. Obviously you are looking for no red lines.
I wish I were more help but I don't have MS3x. My MS3 pro doesn't have adjustable pots so I have never had to mess with them . I have had to add pull up resistors to the pro and a diypnp I built to get it to see the signals correctly which is essentially the same thing as you turning the adjustment so I understand what you are going through.
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No red lines at the bottom of the composite logger.
You may find that even after you get it started and running ok that you might still get lost sync at higher revs. And of course that might require a lit bit more adjustment. Again, this is all from reading others trials and tribulations. And likely why DIYAutotune made the new series of MS3 based ecu's that don't require adjustable pots for ignition signals.
You may find that even after you get it started and running ok that you might still get lost sync at higher revs. And of course that might require a lit bit more adjustment. Again, this is all from reading others trials and tribulations. And likely why DIYAutotune made the new series of MS3 based ecu's that don't require adjustable pots for ignition signals.
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No red lines at the bottom of the composite logger.
You may find that even after you get it started and running ok that you might still get lost sync at higher revs. And of course that might require a lit bit more adjustment. Again, this is all from reading others trials and tribulations. And likely why DIYAutotune made the new series of MS3 based ecu's that don't require adjustable pots for ignition signals.
You may find that even after you get it started and running ok that you might still get lost sync at higher revs. And of course that might require a lit bit more adjustment. Again, this is all from reading others trials and tribulations. And likely why DIYAutotune made the new series of MS3 based ecu's that don't require adjustable pots for ignition signals.
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Lets hope he chimes in.
When I had a DIYPNP I had to swap the pull up resistors from 12v to 5v. I have no idea if the MS3x has the pots wired in a way that would require switching the voltage or what, given the pot as opposed to a fixed resistor I used. So I say let's just wait for old brainy to check in. Or you could go try and **** him off with some crazy liberal post in the political thread in the bs forum and then sneak in a question or two.
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@Braineack
Lets hope he chimes in.
When I had a DIYPNP I had to swap the pull up resistors from 12v to 5v. I have no idea if the MS3x has the pots wired in a way that would require switching the voltage or what, given the pot as opposed to a fixed resistor I used. So I say let's just wait for old brainy to check in. Or you could go try and **** him off with some crazy liberal post in the political thread in the bs forum and then sneak in a question or two.
Lets hope he chimes in.
When I had a DIYPNP I had to swap the pull up resistors from 12v to 5v. I have no idea if the MS3x has the pots wired in a way that would require switching the voltage or what, given the pot as opposed to a fixed resistor I used. So I say let's just wait for old brainy to check in. Or you could go try and **** him off with some crazy liberal post in the political thread in the bs forum and then sneak in a question or two.
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