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-   -   1.8 swap a lil twist (https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/1-8-swap-lil-twist-96140/)

btill115 02-19-2018 02:25 PM

1.8 swap a lil twist
 
So I just swapped in my NB 1.8 and am using the crank and cam sensors that came on it (replaced cam position sensor) and am getting no spark while cranking and a nice red box "NOT RPM SYNCED" in tuner studio. Here's the twist, I got spark using the test mode, but none while cranking?? It's a 1990 chassis and a 1999 engine and a brain built MS3x. Anyone run into this?

Savington 02-19-2018 02:27 PM

Did you change the appropriate trigger settings in Tunerstudio?

btill115 02-19-2018 02:31 PM


Originally Posted by Savington (Post 1467750)
Did you change the appropriate trigger settings in Tunerstudio?

Using the base map he sent me. I played with it but then restored it as I didn't think I was helping my case.https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a69f4a7dc1.png

btill115 02-21-2018 09:39 AM

bump since I'm still stuck without my daily driver!

Neilv 02-21-2018 09:46 AM

Did you shim the crank sensor to the teeth? I did this on my Na (but with AEM ecu) . I must have bumped it at some point and threw the gap off which is how it happened for me.

btill115 02-21-2018 10:54 AM


Originally Posted by Neilv (Post 1468017)
Did you shim the crank sensor to the teeth? I did this on my Na (but with AEM ecu) . I must have bumped it at some point and threw the gap off which is how it happened for me.

Yes, I used a feeler gauge to spec. Did a composite log and have zero reading and multiple unexpected events.

EDIT: zero crank reading, wack cam reading

Joker 02-21-2018 11:07 AM

How did you wire from the CAS plug?

btill115 02-21-2018 11:26 AM


Originally Posted by Joker (Post 1468034)
How did you wire from the CAS plug?

White/Red for 12v
Black/Green(I think it was green lol) for ground
White for crank signal
Blue/yellow for cam signal

Shared the 12V and ground between the 2 sensors, that wouldn't cause any problems would it?

btill115 02-22-2018 04:21 PM

Tested my voltage today, 5v on signal and 12v on constant power. Although, that was with a jumper pack (11.98-99v) but before connecting it was 11.6v. Would a dead battery with a jumper pack be bad?

btill115 02-22-2018 04:22 PM

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Jumper pack died, have to recharge to do a composite but here's my tune. Thinking about just getting a new battery.

btill115 02-22-2018 05:01 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Borrowed a family members battery to do a composite log... if I read this right then I'm getting cam signal and no crank?

hector 02-24-2018 07:34 AM

Your issue is with the variable pot. You have to turn it to get the right resistance. I would page Brain to this thread if I were you.:brain:

btill115 02-24-2018 01:12 PM


Originally Posted by hector (Post 1468483)
Your issue is with the variable pot. You have to turn it to get the right resistance. I would page Brain to this thread if I were you.:brain:

Been trying to communicate with Brain for several days now, he's the one who built my MS3. Haven't got any response and have been stuck without my DD. I will read a thread I saw yesterday by him about turning the pots to see if that works.

btill115 02-24-2018 02:24 PM

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Turned the pot, almost looks like I turned it too much?? I am now getting a crank signal and it starts to fire but seems off so I can tell I am getting spark.

hector 02-24-2018 04:29 PM

Cool, you are definitely getting somewhere.

The red lines at the bottom are sync errors. You are getting signals that the ecu is not anticipating. I am not sure if after "x" amounts of errors if it quits trying to do the sync and you have to cycle the key again.

But if turning the pots helped, I would keep adjusting them until you get a consistent signal and not just from the crank but also cam. Try one less turn ccw or one more turn ccw on each and spin her over. Just do one adjustment at a time and datalog to look for a change. Obviously you are looking for no red lines.

I wish I were more help but I don't have MS3x. My MS3 pro doesn't have adjustable pots so I have never had to mess with them . I have had to add pull up resistors to the pro and a diypnp I built to get it to see the signals correctly which is essentially the same thing as you turning the adjustment so I understand what you are going through.

btill115 02-24-2018 05:59 PM


Originally Posted by hector (Post 1468538)
Cool, you are definitely getting somewhere.

The red lines at the bottom are sync errors. You are getting signals that the ecu is not anticipating. I am not sure if after "x" amounts of errors if it quits trying to do the sync and you have to cycle the key again.

But if turning the pots helped, I would keep adjusting them until you get a consistent signal and not just from the crank but also cam. Try one less turn ccw or one more turn ccw on each and spin her over. Just do one adjustment at a time and datalog to look for a change. Obviously you are looking for no red lines.

I wish I were more help but I don't have MS3x. My MS3 pro doesn't have adjustable pots so I have never had to mess with them . I have had to add pull up resistors to the pro and a diypnp I built to get it to see the signals correctly which is essentially the same thing as you turning the adjustment so I understand what you are going through.

Will do, trial and error almost always prevails lol. How do I know when they are in perfect sync?

hector 02-24-2018 06:13 PM

No red lines at the bottom of the composite logger.

You may find that even after you get it started and running ok that you might still get lost sync at higher revs. And of course that might require a lit bit more adjustment. Again, this is all from reading others trials and tribulations. And likely why DIYAutotune made the new series of MS3 based ecu's that don't require adjustable pots for ignition signals.

btill115 02-24-2018 06:18 PM


Originally Posted by hector (Post 1468557)
No red lines at the bottom of the composite logger.

You may find that even after you get it started and running ok that you might still get lost sync at higher revs. And of course that might require a lit bit more adjustment. Again, this is all from reading others trials and tribulations. And likely why DIYAutotune made the new series of MS3 based ecu's that don't require adjustable pots for ignition signals.

Makes sense, is there anyway of testing the output of the pot to get an exact "dial-in"?

hector 02-24-2018 06:38 PM


Originally Posted by btill115 (Post 1468559)
Makes sense, is there anyway of testing the output of the pot to get an exact "dial-in"?

@Braineack

Lets hope he chimes in.

When I had a DIYPNP I had to swap the pull up resistors from 12v to 5v. I have no idea if the MS3x has the pots wired in a way that would require switching the voltage or what, given the pot as opposed to a fixed resistor I used. So I say let's just wait for old brainy to check in. Or you could go try and piss him off with some crazy liberal post in the political thread in the bs forum and then sneak in a question or two.:rofl:

btill115 02-24-2018 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by hector (Post 1468564)
@Braineack

Lets hope he chimes in.

When I had a DIYPNP I had to swap the pull up resistors from 12v to 5v. I have no idea if the MS3x has the pots wired in a way that would require switching the voltage or what, given the pot as opposed to a fixed resistor I used. So I say let's just wait for old brainy to check in. Or you could go try and piss him off with some crazy liberal post in the political thread in the bs forum and then sneak in a question or two.:rofl:

Lmao, sounds good. I appreciate it.


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