1996 niiata issues i am stumped. - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-15-2007, 05:43 PM   #21
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Crank Angle Sensor is my vote.
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Old 03-15-2007, 06:34 PM   #22
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Crank Angle Sensor is my vote.
your center dash area reminds me of Dampa-chi for some reason.

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Old 03-15-2007, 09:37 PM   #23
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Crank angle sensor was replaced no joy. I am getting real fed up with this dang 1.8.
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Old 03-15-2007, 10:21 PM   #24
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Hold on a sec, did you check those little rubber plugs by the injector manifold (front and back) ? Perhaps one of them is leaking or something when it heats up.
I dunno, I'm not a mechanic.
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Old 03-15-2007, 10:56 PM   #25
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you have spark.you have fuel.
did you hook up the fuel lines backwards.that would let you get fuel to the rail and actually would let my car run for a second,but thats all.
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Old 03-15-2007, 11:04 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by FSTASNTZ View Post
They said the same thing about Honda distributors, and I have seen them 180 off many times. Worth checking.


Jason
I can assure you that the miata CAS was actually designed worth a **** in regards to reverse installation... it's not a Honda. It will not go in 180 off without using a very large prybar or hammer.
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Old 03-16-2007, 10:10 AM   #27
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fuel system is on modified so no worrys there. i tried my cas as the manual and wiring diagrams bill them to be the same. Still no joy, hopefully the cas from sideways will work better. i dunno. if this isnt it ill pull the afm relay to the FP and hotwire the pump on to make sure i am not shutting off when the cranking ends this is very frustrating i hate it when the answer refuses to show up.
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Old 04-04-2007, 11:33 AM   #28
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After chad and akarya's MS experiences i am now thinking the ignitors are bad giving me a spark but not a spark enough to run the motor.
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:22 PM   #29
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Default troubleshooting ideas

I have had a battery just weak enough to show spark but not strong enough to ignite comubstion. Spark gets weakened when the battery has to spin the engine/starter. Looks good on the outside of the cylinder, but once you put it under compression it fails.

Another thing to try checking timing- remove the wires and plugs, disconnect the injector harness. Then put the timing light on the pulley and crank it for an extended period. That will let the ecu set the timing after it picks up the CAS position and give you a positive indicator on the light. I was manually rotating the crank to find my timing only to find out that the ecu sets the trigger point after one full rotation of the cam. Unfortuantely manual rotating the crank looks like the intitial rotation over and over to the ecu.
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:24 PM   #30
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battery has been charged via trickel charger and show 12+ volts and has been jumpered while cranking as well. I might try the timming deal but i figure i should at least get an initial start i get nothing just turning over :(
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Old 04-04-2007, 06:38 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
if this isnt it ill pull the afm relay to the FP and hotwire the pump on to make sure i am not shutting off when the cranking ends this is very frustrating i hate it when the answer refuses to show up.
The 1.8s don't have the switch in the air meter like the 1.6s. This won't be the problem. If you do anything in the diagnostic connector, be aware that they aren't completely the same between 1.6 and 1.8.
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Old 04-21-2007, 06:16 PM   #32
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Ok guys i got it going. Here is how. After changing the coils and cas KAS, etc and doing the TB and what turned out to be a needed WP. The car still wouldnt start so my dad and i sprayed abit of carb cleaner in there and viola it tried to run. Hmm maybe the FP isnt staying on so in went a FP gauge, for diagnostic purposes and a switch to control the FP directly with an independant hot off the battery. And gues what it started, but it still ran like ****. It wouldnt go past idle and tried to stall etc. But we haerd a sucking sound hmm spray more carb cleaner and whatdo ya know it gets a little better so im thinking intake manifold gasket gasket comes in and is installed along with some custom EGR block off plates. And the problem persists but the car idles better. That is when it hits me. The motor is now acting like it is drowning out so why would it do that? The ecu is good injectors are good and FP is right. Off course it is the ******* cat. So i slide under the car back off the bolts and well how do you do the car is alive agian. Abit of house cleaning inside the cat and no one is the wiser and the car now works perfectly after its major tune up. Moral of the story cats are evil, shoot them or get them fixed :gay:
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Old 04-22-2007, 12:10 AM   #33
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glad that only took a month and a half.:gay:
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