MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

So I am a bit stuck at the moment and scratching my head. Got a bunch of stuff working with all the helpfull posts here but can't find much info on what is going on now. I have searched all the internets but no can find my issues.

1. Got a newsed 1.6 installed with a sr20 t25 turbo with old FM mani and new fm DP. Custom everything else.
2. AEM WB with guage
3. MSPNP v1 with GM IAT and auto VTPS.
4. 460cc RX7's (upgraded from 305 supra's that I ran NA on)
5. Toyota COPS wired per Brain.
6. Painted a bunch of mounts and engine bay parts so that they dont look rusty (this might be relevant to grounds and stuff)

Everything worked fine before I pulled the old motor.

Everything was working fine with the new motor (started and ran on jack stands with the cops and all the new cool stuff) accept the pass side headlight would not go up all the time...made a buzzing sound. Replaced the headlight motor with a different one and it was working sometimes, still buzzed once in a while. Now not working at all.

ProSport boost guage was junk so I installed an Autometer I had laying around. Power for its light is coming from the headlight on wire behind the radio (this might be relevant to my issues).

So now the issues:

1. Turn key on and wipers come on (I replaced the wiper motor for a nicer cleaner one same thing). No matter what I do

2. Pass side headlight will not come up but turns on. There is no buzzing from it anymore at all. Another motor that I have doesnt do anything also when hooked up.

3. IAT sensor is now showing -40 on the MS with the Key in on possition or car running. Everything checks out with the sensor but I can grab another one if needed.

4. Car stalls when I when I turn the lights on.


I did notice that I put the two grounds on the back of the manifold together on the same ground, I seperated them like stock but no dice.

Anyone seen anything like this? I am thinking that my issues might be coming from the Boost guage light being wired into the lights on wire...it's prolly not 12v but just a signal wire. Would that cause all my issues?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

remove prosport/autometer power/light wire. report results.

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

Honestly as I was writing the post it dawned on me that that might be my culprit. I shall do that tonight and report back.

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

And...I was wrong. Disconnected all the guages still the same thing.

Also noticed that the fan comes on when you turn the headlights on. I feel like it has to be a ground or something but I went over them a few times and still the same thing.

Any ideas?

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Make sure the battery ground at the battery to the frame is solid and the strap ground from the frame to the motor by the dipstick is connected.

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to doublecheck them again. I redid the frame to motor one a few times now but that was one of the places I painted because of brake fluid corrosion. The battery one is good last time I checked but I will re-check it again.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

If those grounds are good, check to see if you may have pinched a wire and blown one of your larger fuses(like if you grounded the blue connector under the hood) and it is now "backfeeding" through other circuits.

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

Started troubleshooting last night again but it was just way too cold in the garage. I'll see if I can find my arctic gear to go out there for an extended period of time.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

And you did no other wiring work but the gauges?

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

-I fixed the wire on the back of head for the coolant temp sender to the cluster (one wire one)

-Removed the 3 airbag sensors from the front (wiring is still there)

- I did unhook lots of wiring from the engine bay to clean but put it back as I found it...I think.

-I have paint on the bracket that holds the ignitor (now wired to the cops per your write up) there is one little 'resistor or something' that has two wires and a grounding ring that connects to the back of this bracket, no idea what it does but its there with paint on it. Will clean it up so it has a better connection.

-The 6 wire ground under the brake booster was never grounded as the bolt broke before I bought it. After cleaning up all the rust there I bolted it near where bracket is for the relays in the fender well.

-One more thought, my COPS ground goes to the same place as my ECU and O2 sensor grounds are...problem?

I know its something dumb as the wiring isn't that complicated in this car. Fuses seem good, I will go over them again to make sure.

-Another thing I remembered. The plug for the old AC clutch switch broke before (near the pass headlight) the wires might be touching the body....and with fidling with the interior maybe I turned the AC button on? Grasping at straws here.

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. So if I unhook the hazard lights/headlight popup switch the car starts no issue. Hook up the switch while the car is running, battery light starts blinking and car stalls and will not start again...crank crank and no start. Also if the car is in on position connecting the switch will make the car go nutz with the bat light blinking.

So it is deff some kinda grounding issue. Something is drawing way too much power.

Back to trouble shooting.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Check your wiring connection at the headlight, sounds like you powered a ground or tapped into both with one wire.

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

I never did any wiring there at all but I will go and start checking everything on there again.

- So redid a bunch all the grounds and cleaned them up. (This solved the issue for a bit this morning and I got the IAT sensor working)
- Checked all the relays.
- Put in stock ECU
- Disconnected COPS.

Still the same thing. I checked out both of the headlight motors and they seem like they might not be fully functional anymore. But with even that one headlight disconnected the car goes nuts.

Its still cold as heck out for now so I've been going slowly. Brakes are all done and the car is ready. I got it running for a bit for some reason without any issues. Then same issues again BUT the IAT sensor is working fine still.

So the other thing I was thinking...could it be something wrong with the ignition switch?

curly

iTrader: (25)

It probably isn't The ignition simply connects power to different circuits, such as accessories, the ignition, and finally the starter circuit. If the ignition switch was having issues, you'd see those get connected in the wrong order, stay connected after you switched it off, or not turn on at all. It's all 12v in there, big gauge stuff, it's most likely fine and wouldn't cause the problems you're describing.

This is what you said earlier:

ProSport boost guage was junk so I installed an Autometer I had laying around. Power for its light is coming from the headlight on wire behind the radio (this might be relevant to my issues).

And was what I meant by the headlight wiring. It seems like you grounded the gauge and gave it 12v, but some how those two circuits are getting connected incorrectly. I know on a friend's gauge, he had 12v for the light, and a 5v reference from the dash lights so the gauge is only lit when the rest of the dash lights are on. Perhaps one of these is being grounded instead?

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

I will look more into that. I did unhook all the guages but I might just disconnect all the guages for the wiring harness and see if that helps. The wiring harness for the radio was cut up before I got the car so I will go over all that stuff also.

Thnx Curly.

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

And I think we are fixed.

-Cleaned up all the grounds and still no go. Ran an extra ground for the 6 ground block in the bay and bam...everything seems to be otay. Still need a new headlight motor and both of mine have cracked drive gears it looks like and mostly do not work.

Took the car out for a drive after a long while now. I has trubo Its got a nasty what feels like full fuel cut or ignition cut around 3k or maybe 1-2psi (I checked the boost cut property in the MS and set that at 12 but its still doing it)

I might eat something off this bay before it gets dirty:



Thank you for the help guys.

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

Oh and I think the big issue is with the two healight motors that I have for the Pass side. Hooking up one of them makes the other headlight start going up and down all by itself...The power of Christ compels you. The other one works sometimes but when it gets stuck it starts clicking and the wipers come on.

I have another one coming in, it is weird that two of my motors would be bad but who knows.

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

AHA. Issue resolved.

So I hooked up my old headlight motor and turned on the switch for the headlight. The motor was making the buzzing sound again so I started touching all and wiggling wires. When I got to the 6 wire ground block the motor would make different buzzing sounds as I would wiggle the whole wire bundle. So I unhooked the ground block and looked inside it again. It looked very dirty in there so I though I would pull the connectors from there and clean them up.

As I was pulling one of them it kinda fell apart (on the left) so I cut all of them off and replaced them.



Had a few connectors like that that fit perfect.

Old connectors:



New





and BAM...everything works fine now. Headlight work without any issue.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

odd those are sensor grounds iirc.