Like dis Like dis

 

I do it a similar but different way.

Dann

 

Yes, for initial settings. Then I take it in to get dialed in to the numbers I want. Local Firestone place is very accommodating.

 

I do...... Using a Hunter HawkEye.


ROFL at the Miata.net "drive-way alignment" crew.

 

I do it similar also.

 

I am borrowing the Iron Canyon string kit and going to give it a shot on a 4-post lift I can rent for $25/hr. If that works I'm buying the IC hubstands. I'm tired of paying for this ****. Sunny and Emilio motivated me to embrace my testosterone and align my own stuff.

 

Those hubstands look pretty sweet but they are still a little pricey when compared to multiple alignments. If I had more serious disposable income I would consider them for project work.

My logic is that for a street car, tolerances from factory spec are within 6mm (3 +-3) and the cams are at least twice as accurate as that (for most adjustments) with a single graduation. One, Whole, Graduation. It's not rocket science, get it within two notches and you're good. Fancy laser machines will get you down to fractions of a mm but do I really need that to not get noticeable wear driving to my friendly neighborhood flophouse?

To the guys who do their own with strings, how do you do it differently?

 

Some say the laser alignment is more accurate, some say the string. I know that the lasers are ~.25" wide, but not sure what that means for "slop".

 

Lol, ********. I got logged off and it looked like the post didn't go through

 

Those hubstands look pretty sweet but they are still a little pricey when compared to multiple alignments. If I had more serious disposable income I would consider them for project work.

My logic is that for a street car, tolerances from factory spec are within 6mm (3 +-3) and the cams are at least twice as accurate as that (for most adjustments) with a single graduation. One, Whole, Graduation. It's not rocket science, get it within two notches and you're good. Fancy laser machines will get you down to fractions of a mm but do I really need that to not get noticeable wear driving to my friendly neighborhood flophouse?

To the guys who do their own with strings, how do you do it differently?

 

Those hubstands look pretty sweet but they are still a little pricey when compared to multiple alignments. If I had more serious disposable income I would consider them for project work.

My logic is that for a street car, tolerances from factory spec are within 6mm (3 +-3) and the cams are at least twice as accurate as that (for most adjustments) with a single graduation. One, Whole, Graduation. It's not rocket science, get it within two notches and you're good. Fancy laser machines will get you down to fractions of a mm but do I really need that to not get noticeable wear driving to my friendly neighborhood flophouse?

To the guys who do their own with strings, how do you do it differently?

 

 

Its not worth it to me right now. I get the car corner weighted an aligned for 130 bucks. It takes just under 2 hours of my life including driving to the shop and sitting in the car while its weighted and aligned. I'm likely going to end up getting more this year than the two times I had it done last year only because of more mid season parts changes. I get everything set within =/-0.05* which is the limit of this particular machines ability to measure. And my man always hits spot on to the number. So to me, its not really worth it to spend the time, unless I could get the same accuracy, do it under 3 hours, and require 5+ alignments/year.

 

It's not about saving money or making tires last longer. It's about experimenting, learning, and dialing in the handling.

Changing toe has a huge impact and can be done without any equipment other than a couple of wrenches. Make small adjustments to both sides and drive. Keep track of where the eccentrics were, go back if you want. If things get a little effed up THEN you take it to the shop and have them straghten it out.

But if you're careful nothing will go wrong. You'll have a car that handles the way you always wanted it to, and you'll be a hero in your own mind just like me.

Note that I'm talking about adjusting toe. Camber is harder to change without changing toe at the same time, but adjusting toe is free and easy. Destroying tires is an honor.

 

Those hubstands look pretty sweet but they are still a little pricey when compared to multiple alignments. If I had more serious disposable income I would consider them for project work.

My logic is that for a street car, tolerances from factory spec are within 6mm (3 +-3) and the cams are at least twice as accurate as that (for most adjustments) with a single graduation. One, Whole, Graduation. It's not rocket science, get it within two notches and you're good. Fancy laser machines will get you down to fractions of a mm but do I really need that to not get noticeable wear driving to my friendly neighborhood flophouse?

To the guys who do their own with strings, how do you do it differently?

 

Those hubstands look pretty sweet but they are still a little pricey when compared to multiple alignments. If I had more serious disposable income I would consider them for project work.

My logic is that for a street car, tolerances from factory spec are within 6mm (3 +-3) and the cams are at least twice as accurate as that (for most adjustments) with a single graduation. One, Whole, Graduation. It's not rocket science, get it within two notches and you're good. Fancy laser machines will get you down to fractions of a mm but do I really need that to not get noticeable wear driving to my friendly neighborhood flophouse?

To the guys who do their own with strings, how do you do it differently?

 

What about this?

Toe Gauge - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

 

I made a set of stands w greased plates on top to get the alignment done.