fam4

Is there any issue with using an auto throttle body on a manual converted miata? The miata in particular is a is a 1993 with California emissions. The car hasn't popped up any cel but it does start up pretty roughly, almost as if it cant. looking through the wiring diagrams too what wire would be the one for the tps for when I eventually turbo it? I have a greddy kit, and was thinking on getting megasquirt down the line.

themonkeyman

Depends on what ecu you’re using. The na8 used the same ecu for both transmissions but na6 had an auto ecu and a manual ecu. Auto has a true TPS while manual tps only had idle and WOT position sensors. I think first of all your auto harness would not plug into the manual throttle both tps, and I also think the ecu would not like it if you are still on the auto ecu. But someone will probably know more than me.

Other than hard starting does it drive normally? Maybe check your base timing and air bleed screw setting, I think manual and auto cars had different target idle rpm since the auto has some drag at idle while in gear. Just a thought.

fam4

Using the only ecu available for this miata. Since it's a 1993 cali emissions there is only one part number. Mazda only has it as b6aw-18-881 and unlike the federal ones it's the only one that appears in their parts list. It does have some hesitation but after that I guess it drives normally. I'll get to timing and idle I guess. Last time I jumped the ten and ground I got code 1 and 8. Haven't gotten them after I unplugged the battery. I was thinking it might also be a bad igniter? Only reason I got code 8 is because I started it up without afm

themonkeyman

Ah ok. Yeah I’d just start with base timing and TPS calibration/reset. Not much else you can adjust on those. Did it start better before the swap?

fam4

It was barely running. After the swap I saw an unplugged vaccum port at the manifold and I figured it was the one that was supposed to go to the transmission. I already tried checking the timing and idle and the mark was 19 deg off where it's supposed to be from... So 29 deg after tdc. I just checked the belt and it seemed to be off. I fixed it and counted teeth and now everything is aligned properly. Still had problems so I changed the cas with a spare one I had, still no luck, how would I reset/ calibrate the tps? The car turns on but it has a hard time idling.

fam4

Just checked timing again with a light and the mark is still way off. It's going off at the very top rather than anywhere near the timing marks. Could it be the igniter at this point? Plugged off tps still idling bad but no longer shutting itself off. Cel light on with it off

themonkeyman

I mean if it runs and drives the igniter is working. Can you not adjust the CAS to get the timing in the right ballpark? You need to have the 10 and GND pins jumpered in the diagnostic box to lock the electronic timing; https://www.miata.net/garage/ignition.html#timing

As for the TPS adjustment; http://wiki.miata.net/tiki-index.php...osition+Sensor

fam4

Thanks for the help. I ended up swapping the engine from a donor miata I had that got rear ended. Swapped the whole subframes because I also had bushings and brakes I wanted to keep, as well as the clutch and flywheel... It doesn't act as bad and it's running fine. I'm assuming I'd do the adjustment like a 1.8 tps right? Since I'm pretty sure autos share the same tps sensors as 1.8. Right?