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Old 09-22-2009, 05:00 PM   #21
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Wow......really, that car is ******* sick. Nicely done man

What kind of wheels are those and what size?
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexOnYou View Post
Most of the drag guys mount them on the outside, so in our case antenna hole or rear finish panel. Personally I would prefer to have it on the inside - since you are the first person at the scene every time.

We put the kill switch on the passenger vertical bar of the main hoop on all of our cars at work, but I have also seen them in the left eyeball vent hole of the dash. Same idea, only downfall being if you end up laying on that side of the car, the switch is covered. Don't really remember what NHRA requires - I haven't even dragged in almost a year :( but just throwing those out there.
NHRA requires that the switch be mounted on the rear of the vehicle on the outside. In the event of a crash, and the driver is unabled, rescue personel can turn the car off. Drag cars often have very high flow electric fuel pumps that can feed a fire even if the car is not running. It may be illegal per NHRA rules to mount it in the antenna hole.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:34 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
Hey scot this guy needs a avatar pic of his motor or someshit so we dont mistake him for a newb at first glance any more
Was a pic of the motor posted?

Until then, I've put up his time. Ought to suffice for now.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:43 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Was a pic of the motor posted?

Until then, I've put up his time. Ought to suffice for now.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32792-2/#post456486
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Old 09-23-2009, 01:37 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Was a pic of the motor posted?

Until then, I've put up his time. Ought to suffice for now.
yeah that works TY joe
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Old 09-23-2009, 12:08 PM   #26
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We were working on following a different sanctioning bodys rules so we put ours in the car. I kinda like the idea of being able to reach it from driver seat.


I don't know what motor you have in there but on ours, I moved the power wire to that went to the alt to the starter than ran a wire from the switched side of the battery switch to the alt. So when switch is off it cuts alt and battery feed to front of car. Single pole switch.

PS: had 2 "taylor" switched fail, went with a Summit hi-amp one for $30 not problems.
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Battery Disconnect Master Switch-interor-sw.jpg   Battery Disconnect Master Switch-cut-off-sw.jpg   Battery Disconnect Master Switch-interor.jpg  
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:19 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
Bad *** car man! Might I ask what your rear end and rear suspension setup is? I just noticed how it came off the line and how there was no drop in the rear, and of course the 1.6 60'.
7.5" Ford Rear, KYB AGX all the way around, cheap ebay adjustable coil overs with 400lb springs in the rear, up front I have rear 87 escort wagon springs. 225-45-17 BFG Drag Radials
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:23 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l_bader View Post
So the next thing he needs to work on is his reaction time...



Or put two master switches in series; one inside, one out back.

- L
The car is such a handfull off the line that I have just been ignoring the lights and concentrating on my launch. I figure once I get the launch perfected I can start worrying about the lights.
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:25 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vashthestampede View Post
Wow......really, that car is ******* sick. Nicely done man

What kind of wheels are those and what size?
Thanks, those are Eagle Aloys, I think the number of them is 192. They are 17" in the rear and 15" up front.
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Old 09-24-2009, 08:12 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by MX5.7 View Post
The car is such a handfull off the line that I have just been ignoring the lights and concentrating on my launch. I figure once I get the launch perfected I can start worrying about the lights.
Quite understandable...

- L
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Old 09-24-2009, 03:34 PM   #31
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The battery kill switch is only required for pro racing /course driving. You don't need one if you're attending a PDX or Race Day course event where street cars are allowed. If you are required to have a kill switch you will also be required to have a full roll cage, race type seat with a 6 point harness, fire system and window netting. These are required for Spec Miata drivers etc. You also must attend drivers schools and have a pro license such as SCCA, NASA etc.
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:25 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pitcrewguy View Post
The battery kill switch is only required for pro racing /course driving. You don't need one if you're attending a PDX or Race Day course event where street cars are allowed. If you are required to have a kill switch you will also be required to have a full roll cage, race type seat with a 6 point harness, fire system and window netting. These are required for Spec Miata drivers etc. You also must attend drivers schools and have a pro license such as SCCA, NASA etc.
you are most certianly correct but NHRA drag racing etc sets rules like this on ET's and he definatley needs a kill switch and everything else to be allowed to run that fast continously.
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